Lawns

amethyst_babes

New Member
We bought our home in Jan 2004 and the builder seeded for us. The lawn is on an incline so there are areas where the seed washed away. I'm looking for a service that will come and make my lawn look good. My neighbors (way more ambition than me) tilled and seeded in the fall and it looks awesome. I, however, do not have that kind of time.

Can you recommend a lawn service?
 

Oz

You're all F'in Mad...
amethyst_babes said:
We bought our home in Jan 2004 and the builder seeded for us. The lawn is on an incline so there are areas where the seed washed away. I'm looking for a service that will come and make my lawn look good. My neighbors (way more ambition than me) tilled and seeded in the fall and it looks awesome. I, however, do not have that kind of time.

Can you recommend a lawn service?

I use Lawn Link 301-769-2007 (CD Raley) for my fertilizer program. He does maintenance too and is probably more reasonable than a Chemlawn. Plus, he's a local small business - good guy!
 

Vince

......
Oz said:
I use Lawn Link 301-769-2007 (CD Raley) for my fertilizer program. He does maintenance too and is probably more reasonable than a Chemlawn. Plus, he's a local small business - good guy!
:yeahthat: Or you can rake it out yourself with a steel rake, put some grass seed down, and straw over top so it won't wash away. Before that put lime down. Water the whole mess in with some miracle grow unless you feel like spreading some 10-10-10 down and add Urea (40-0-0).
 

Oz

You're all F'in Mad...
DoWhat said:
Came highly recommended from my Lawn Sprinkler tech.


:confused:

What does your dog know about fertilizing a lawn?

(Nevermind - that question answers itself...)
 

rickl5296

New Member
:yeahthat: Or you can rake it out yourself with a steel rake, put some grass seed down, and straw over top so it won't wash away. Before that put lime down. Water the whole mess in with some miracle grow unless you feel like spreading some 10-10-10 down and add Urea (40-0-0).

1.) Don't seed in the spring unless you have bare dirt and have no choice.
2.) You need to take a soil test from a professional lab before you apply lime. Soil testing can be obtained at most garden centers and farm stores
3.) 10-10-10 is too much Phosphorus, Phosphorus along with nitrogen are the two nutrients blamed for algae blooms in the Chesapeake Bay. Keep in mind, most of the nutrient problems in the bay come from agriculture and failed septic systems rather than our lawns. However, that is no excuse for urban nutrient users not following nutrient management laws currently in place. You can't test for nitrogen, but you can test for phosphorus and only apply if you have a deficiency. Urea (46-0-0) is the fastest of the synthetic organic nitrogens. You want to apply a slow release like poly or sulphur coated urea or use a natural organic. Scotts TB is ok, but should be applied at half rate. Read the label. Other slow N sources are IBDU or CDU (Turf Trust). We are using a stablized liquid nitrogen right now. Too much fast release N right now will only stimulate top growtn at the expense of root development. It is important to note that if you hire a professional service (or your mower man is fertilizing your lawn), it is required by the Department of agriculture for them to take a professional soil test and maintain records for your property for three years. If they apply pesticides for you, even general use, they have to be certified pesticide applicators certified by MDA.
4.) Don't use straw. It contains a lot of weeds. There is a mulch product that you can spread that is made from recycled newspaper called Penn Mulch and others. Go to the garden center. They should have it. Remember, do not seed unless you have to. If you have to, plan to reseed in fall.

We have a lawn seminar coming up at Maryland University Extension, Charles County Office. Download the attached flyer for more information.
 

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