Has anyone ever done it? If so, how was it relined and about how much was it?

I used to work for a chimney sweep company that did that. They usually run a full length of flexible pipe down the chimney. Then they change the damper and only the pipe is used for venting. I don't remember how much is cost. Cheaper than a new house when the chimney catches on fire and goes thru the attic tho.

CLe is doing ours this weekend. I will let you know how it goes. :duel:

CLe is doing ours this weekend. I will let you know how it goes. :duel:

What's he using as the liner?

I don't know if they have it down here but in Maine we had our chimney lined by Spuaflu. They put a long inflatable form down the chimney, basically a straight innertube. Blow it up and then pump a fireproof masonry product and fill the chimney with it. They then deflate the tube and pull it out, clean out the connection points and you are good to go.

It costs a good bit more but it is good forever and it is fail proof. The guy who did it said if you ever get a chimney fire open the vents and let it burn itself out. :lol:

I did the steel pipe liner a couple times and it is a giant pain. Worse yet is trying to get the rusty thing out several years later when it is falling apart.

We got a quote for $1800 from a company to do the stainless steel liner. :yikes: Oh, and that also includes a special cap because they said the chimney is too short and was causing down drafts. :ohwell:

We got a quote for $1800 from a company to do the stainless steel liner. :yikes: Oh, and that also includes a special cap because they said the chimney is too short and was causing down drafts. :ohwell:

See with the supaflu it will cost that much but it will NEVER corrode or rot out. Even stainless will eventually corrode. Supaflu does not have seams like pipe and it never has to be replaced.

Glad you guys are posting options. My flue is no longer suitable for a regular fireplace, so I have a 3" pipe running up the center for the pellet stove. If I ever sell the house, I'd have to make some kind of repair. I like the poured filler idea, Pete.

http://www.supaflu.com/products.htm

We just wanted to put in a woodstove in the basement to supplement the heat pump. At that price, it's cheaper to just pay extra for the electric. :ohwell:

We just wanted to put in a woodstove in the basement to supplement the heat pump. At that price, it's cheaper to just pay extra for the electric. :ohwell:

Is there a chimney there already or are you going to put a stainless flue outside?

Is there a chimney there already or are you going to put a stainless flue outside?

There's a chimney already, but it was used for the old oil furnace. I wonder if it'd be cheaper to just run a stainless flue outside next to the chimney? It might look ghetto.

There's a chimney already, but it was used for the old oil furnace. I wonder if it'd be cheaper to just run a stainless flue outside next to the chimney? It might look ghetto.

Can't you just run an inexpensive liner up and out the existing flue? Or is that what you had already gotten the estimate on...

I'm thinking you can go to Lowes and get insulated black stove pipe and run up the flue yourself.

There's a chimney already, but it was used for the old oil furnace. I wonder if it'd be cheaper to just run a stainless flue outside next to the chimney? It might look ghetto.

Have you had the chimnet scoped? If it was just an oil furnace you might not need anything.

Have you had the chimnet scoped? If it was just an oil furnace you might not need anything.

Well, they didn't do the full report and cleaning. We just asked them to look at it and tell us if it was ok. :shrug: They said they would not recommend using it like it is because it needs to be relined. The oil furnace is gone, so we just have the heat pump.

Can't you just run an inexpensive liner up and out the existing flue? Or is that what you had already gotten the estimate on...

I'm thinking you can go to Lowes and get insulated black stove pipe and run up the flue yourself.

I'm not sure. They just gave us the quote for the stainless. A home repair jack-of-all-trades kinda guy was here looking at the electric in our garage, and he took a look a the chimney and said he's used worse in his own home. :ohwell: I don't want to risk it though.

Well, they didn't do the full report and cleaning. We just asked them to look at it and tell us if it was ok. :shrug: They said they would not recommend using it like it is because it needs to be relined. The oil furnace is gone, so we just have the heat pump.

Hmmmmmmmm sounds like they were more interested in selling you a liner.

Hmmmmmmmm sounds like they were more interested in selling you a liner.

For real. I called another company so we can get a second opinion.

For real. I called another company so we can get a second opinion.

Is it brick only, lined with terra cotta, cement block?

How old is it?

Is it brick only, lined with terra cotta, cement block?

How old is it?

I have no idea what it's lined with. :shrug:

And the house was built in 49, but I'm not sure if the chimney is original or added later.

I'm not sure. They just gave us the quote for the stainless. A home repair jack-of-all-trades kinda guy was here looking at the electric in our garage, and he took a look a the chimney and said he's used worse in his own home. :ohwell: I don't want to risk it though.

Hmmmmmmmm sounds like they were more interested in selling you a liner.

We were told the same thing years ago about our basement FP. Probably about 18 years ago, the wanted us to purchase a metal liner for $3,000.00 It is terra cotta lined. We had both FPs capped a few years ago. At that time the guy from Tri County Hearth told us the flu was fine..just a tiny bit of the terra cotta was chipped off at the very top, above the roof line, and it wasn't a problem.

The problem with old chimneys that are all brick is that the mortar in the brick joints is susceptible to heat. It flakes and falls out. If you can look down the brick chimney or lower a mirror on a pole look for erosion or missing mortar in the gaps.

The old mortar was not very good to begin with, some only lime, sand and water. If there are gaps between the bricks where fire can escape and flame is allowed to get into the ceiling or attic that is VERY bad.

Terra cotta is good because it is the first barrier, the brick is the second barrier, and terra cotta has fewer joints and they used heat resistant mortar. The flames never touched the brick it was contained in the terra cotta.

Given this was a chimney used for an oil furnace it should have very little residue in it, perhaps a little soot or staining. If the chimney is structurally sound, has a terra cotta liner, it should be fine to use.

Of course you need to have someone who knows look at it if you need piece of mind. the problem is the person doing the inspection is typically selling something and if your chimney is fine they don't make a sale.

fear is a great motivator

What's he using as the liner?

I am using a 4" Easy Flex Liner (http://www.woodlanddirect.com/Chimney/Chimney-Liners;jsessionid=0a0105531f43ebcc5635ac28468781b8b5206f4f8b8f.e3eSc3uRax8Te34Pa38Ta38Pb3r0)(Stainless Steel) - 35' liner cost me ~ $450, this includes the 4" to 3" reducer, cap and weather cover. I bought extra pipe because I figure the pellet stove I want to replace the current one with (4" vice 3") I wanted to ensure I had enough in case the outlet was different - better safe than sorry.

Any questions shoot me a PM and we can talk on the phone. I have done a bit of research and learned a bit about metal liners. :yay:

I also have the name of someone who installs them and does chimney repairs; he is going to fix the mortar on top of our chimneys this weekend...

Has anyone ever done it? If so, how was it relined and about how much was it?

Maybe it doesnt have to be relined, it just may need a flue shot.

Maybe it doesnt have to be relined, it just may need a flue shot.

ugh..

Of course you need to have someone who knows look at it if you need piece of mind. the problem is the person doing the inspection is typically selling something and if your chimney is fine they don't make a sale.

fear is a great motivator

Yep. :ohwell:

I am using a 4" Easy Flex Liner (http://www.woodlanddirect.com/Chimney/Chimney-Liners;jsessionid=0a0105531f43ebcc5635ac28468781b8b5206f4f8b8f.e3eSc3uRax8Te34Pa38Ta38Pb3r0)(Stainless Steel) - 35' liner cost me ~ $450, this includes the 4" to 3" reducer, cap and weather cover. I bought extra pipe because I figure the pellet stove I want to replace the current one with (4" vice 3") I wanted to ensure I had enough in case the outlet was different - better safe than sorry.

Any questions shoot me a PM and we can talk on the phone. I have done a bit of research and learned a bit about metal liners. :yay:

I also have the name of someone who installs them and does chimney repairs; he is going to fix the mortar on top of our chimneys this weekend...

Awesome, thanks! I'll have hubby read this.

Maybe it doesnt have to be relined, it just may need a flue shot.


:giggle:

Originally Posted by otter
Maybe it doesnt have to be relined, it just may need a flue shot.

Where's the :groan: smilie...... ?

Awesome, thanks! I'll have hubby read this.

Mind you, I am using a Pellet stove, Wood/Coal will require a bigger diameter liner - I believe 6" minimum but 8" seems to be the standard from what I have read. If I was running a wood stove I would step up to the heavier flex liners which are more smooth on the inside, or a rigid liner.

Feel free to have him pm/email and I would be glad to talk with him and share what I know. :huggy:

Mind you, I am using a Pellet stove, Wood/Coal will require a bigger diameter liner - I believe 6" minimum but 8" seems to be the standard from what I have read. If I was running a wood stove I would step up to the heavier flex liners which are more smooth on the inside, or a rigid liner.

Feel free to have him pm/email and I would be glad to talk with him and share what I know. :huggy:

I was thinking that too. Rippled/corrugated liners would capture creosote and be very difficult to clean.

I was thinking that too. Rippled/corrugated liners would capture creosote and be very difficult to clean.

:high5: They one like I got can be used, but it is highly recommended it is insulated to help fight against rapid heat buildup then loss. This causes the condensation which will allow the creosote to buildup even faster.

You can still brush it down, but it becomes a bear to clean. Plus, it is recommended NOT to use a wire sweep brush in the corrugated pipe as it will tear it up (supposedly) - the smooth wall pipes can handle the wire brush and are more durable.

Another company is coming out Tuesday evening to take a look.