Timeline:

Spring 2011 - Failed emissions test
Fall 2011 - went to retest and they turned me away saying SUV was smoking too much
In a few weeks I am due to test again ......

The mechanic I use told me that I can try smokeless oil so that Emissions will let me test (turned me away a few months ago due to too much smoke), then I will get more time to figure out what to do with my SUV even if I fail again.

I was reading online that smokeless oil doesn't work BUT the mechanic said he ordered some (from a supplier in Georgia for $200) for a customer who used it and went through DC inspection just fine (meaning it worked).

I'm thinking this, if the smokeless oil works, I use that, then have the shop figure out what else caused me to fail Emissions last Spring, then maybe I get a year or 2 if I pass to figure out what's going on with my engine, and at the minimum a few more months if I don't pass.

So does smokeless oil work that anyone here knows of? I would assume maybe some brands work and some are just getting big $$ for a product that doesn't work.

Timeline:

Spring 2011 - Failed emissions test
Fall 2011 - went to retest and they turned me away saying SUV was smoking too much
In a few weeks I am due to test again ......

The mechanic I use told me that I can try smokeless oil so that Emissions will let me test (turned me away a few months ago due to too much smoke), then I will get more time to figure out what to do with my SUV even if I fail again.

I was reading online that smokeless oil doesn't work BUT the mechanic said he ordered some (from a supplier in Georgia for $200) for a customer who used it and went through DC inspection just fine (meaning it worked).

I'm thinking this, if the smokeless oil works, I use that, then have the shop figure out what else caused me to fail Emissions last Spring, then maybe I get a year or 2 if I pass to figure out what's going on with my engine, and at the minimum a few more months if I don't pass.

So does smokeless oil work that anyone here knows of? I would assume maybe some brands work and some are just getting big $$ for a product that doesn't work.

That sounds weird. Never heard of a smokeless oil and if you vehicle is putting out too much oil smoke it has a problem. Rings? How many miles? Best to just get it fixed.

That sounds weird. Never heard of a smokeless oil and if you vehicle is putting out too much oil smoke it has a problem. Rings? How many miles? Best to just get it fixed.

:yeahthat: I've herd of additives like STP that are supposed to stop an engine from smoking but never smokeless oil

:yeahthat: I've herd of additives like STP that are supposed to stop an engine from smoking but never smokeless oil

Yeah, your engine should not be burning very much oil. I think STP just helps keep it from getting past the rings.

If It is coming from the top though I don't think it can help.

That sounds weird. Never heard of a smokeless oil and if you vehicle is putting out too much oil smoke it has a problem. Rings? How many miles? Best to just get it fixed.

I don't have the $$ to let someone open up the engine to see what the cause is (could be $500 + or a new engine for $3k) so I need more time. Emissions says I have to be there in a couple weeks again to retest, and they may suspend my tags this time? I don't know how many chances you get. I just need more time, and I don't want to give up my tags for 6 months (or more) and have to get them back again. I'm not driving it due to the smoking problem, so me polluting the environment in the meantime isn't the issue.

oh 230k miles now V8 5.7L GM

" Does ENTEK Smokeless Motor Oil really work?
This is a frequently asked question simply, because our claims seem too good to be true; however, they are true as evidenced by over 50,000 successful uses. The only time that ENTEK Smokeless Oil will not stop tail pipe emissions is if the emissions are coolant related, (in which case, another high quality ENTEK Corporation product, MR. BLOCKHEAD, should be used) or in cases of a very rich fuel/air mixture. A good automotive professional should be able to tell the difference; OIL BASED EMISSIONS ARE BLUE; COOLANT EMISSIONS ARE WHITE OR GRAY; AND FUEL EMISSIONS ARE BLACK"

:: ENTEK Corporation :: (http://www.smokelessoil.com/faqs.php)

here's another smokeless oil:

"What is this oil and how does it work?
FHS SmokeLess Oil is a unique synthetic oil that was developed from our high performance racing oils. These special oils were necessary for engines to survive the extreme conditions encountered in racing. By using the same innovative, cutting-edge technology, we have created a new oil to prevent the problems that occur in worn engines. Several special properties allow this oil to work for you."

Cutting Edge Racing Oil and Fuel (http://www.fhsoils.com/motor_faq.html)

Look into a waiver... VEIP Waiver Information (http://www.mva.maryland.gov/MVA-Programs/VEIP/veipwaiver.htm)

dont they let you spend a certain amount on repairs then give you a waiver if you still dont pass?
If so, get a tune up, and move on

Yes they do. My Saturn failed last year, (before I put diesel in it). If you spend over $400 trying to fix the problem you are able to get a waiver. You are also given almost 3 full months to retest after a failure. I got lucky and only had to get a couple sensors replaced due to my failure. (again before I put diesel in it. BCP please put a sign on your truck so I don't siphon diesel into my car again)

dont they let you spend a certain amount on repairs then give you a waiver if you still dont pass?
If so, get a tune up, and move on

You have to spend a minimum of $450 on emissions-related repairs during certain specified time periods to qualify. I don't think my SUV needs $450 of emissions-related repairs (aside from engine), and I'd hate to think I have to spend $450 on stuff I don't need just to get more time. If I had $450 laying around, I could probably get the engine opened up and looked at to see why its smoking?

From the mechanic in me: It's got 230,000 miles on it. It's worn out. Could be rings, could be valve guides, could be seals. I'd bet that whatever the root cause of the smoke is, it will be far more expensive than $450. If it were me, and the truck body and frame and tranny were all in VERY good shape, I'd replace the motor, not fix it. If the truck is NOT in good shape, it's wasted money. Put it toward a new or newer vehicle.

From the Naturalist in me: If it's smoking, it needs to either be repaired or taken off the road. The whole reason for the emissions test is to catch and remove vehicles from the system that pollute. Getting a waiver to get around it just because you don't want or can't afford to get it fixed is just not an excuse in my book.

From the mechanic in me: It's got 230,000 miles on it. It's worn out. Could be rings, could be valve guides, could be seals. I'd bet that whatever the root cause of the smoke is, it will be far more expensive than $450. If it were me, and the truck body and frame and tranny were all in VERY good shape, I'd replace the motor, not fix it. If the truck is NOT in good shape, it's wasted money. Put it toward a new or newer vehicle.

From the Naturalist in me: If it's smoking, it needs to either be repaired or taken off the road. The whole reason for the emissions test is to catch and remove vehicles from the system that pollute. Getting a waiver to get around it just because you don't want or can't afford to get it fixed is just not an excuse in my book.

IOW, it's dead Jim. ?

From the mechanic in me: It's got 230,000 miles on it. It's worn out. Could be rings, could be valve guides, could be seals. I'd bet that whatever the root cause of the smoke is, it will be far more expensive than $450. If it were me, and the truck body and frame and tranny were all in VERY good shape, I'd replace the motor, not fix it. If the truck is NOT in good shape, it's wasted money. Put it toward a new or newer vehicle.

From the Naturalist in me: If it's smoking, it needs to either be repaired or taken off the road. The whole reason for the emissions test is to catch and remove vehicles from the system that pollute. Getting a waiver to get around it just because you don't want or can't afford to get it fixed is just not an excuse in my book.

I would rather put a new engine in it than pay someone to look into the current one since it may a big job and I still may end up needing a new one? The trans is about 4 years old, body still good, and it has sentimental value to me also. It also has a new Flowmaster exhaust system on it.

I mentioned that I am NOT driving it due to the smoke. But I want to keep my tags until I can get the smoke issue addressed (as soon as I find someone who does engines as a hobby or I buy a new one). Vehicles w/o tags are not allowed to be within sight of the road, and short of parking it in the horse field, I have no other place to put it out of sight, AND I'd have no choice then but to have it TOWED to a shop when I have $$ to fix it, and I'd lose my Alumni tags which I'd have to reapply for - so too much hassle to turn in tags until I get it fixed, if I don't have to.

IOW, it's dead Jim. ?



It AIN'T easy to put my hands on $3k for the replacement of the engine ..... but I'm not going to trash the whole vehicle because of that just because emissions wants me to pass or take my tags.

Prior to last Spring I was passing the emissions test, suddenly I don't pass, then the next time I go they say it's smoking too much to let me test. So I take a vehicle that I've spent thousands of dollars on in recent years, and throw it away? I can't afford to do that unfortunately. If I had money to buy a new(er) vehicle I'd happily buy one.

It AIN'T easy to put my hands on $3k for the replacement of the engine ..... but I'm not going to trash the whole vehicle because of that just because emissions wants me to pass or take my tags.

Prior to last Spring I was passing the emissions test, suddenly I don't pass, then the next time I go they say it's smoking too much to let me test. So I take a vehicle that I've spent thousands of dollars on in recent years, and throw it away? I can't afford to do that unfortunately. If I had money to buy a new(er) vehicle I'd happily buy one.

What kind if vehicle is it and what engine do you have in it.

Never mind, I just went back and saw it was a GM.
I have a 302 with 108k on it that I was going to offer to let you have.
Still would have had to pay someone to swap it, but it would have been much less than other ways.

It AIN'T easy to put my hands on $3k for the replacement of the engine ..... but I'm not going to trash the whole vehicle because of that just because emissions wants me to pass or take my tags.

Prior to last Spring I was passing the emissions test, suddenly I don't pass, then the next time I go they say it's smoking too much to let me test. So I take a vehicle that I've spent thousands of dollars on in recent years, and throw it away? I can't afford to do that unfortunately. If I had money to buy a new(er) vehicle I'd happily buy one.
Call Brandywine and see what they have in the way of used motors for you. Shouldn't be too expensive since it's not a high end engine, just a run of the mill 5.7. They also do replacements, so get a price on that as well. If you can swing the $$ for a used motor, let me know and I will give you the info for my mechanic. He does good work and is cheap.

Call Brandywine and see what they have in the way of used motors for you. Shouldn't be too expensive since it's not a high end engine, just a run of the mill 5.7. They also do replacements, so get a price on that as well. If you can swing the $$ for a used motor, let me know and I will give you the info for my mechanic. He does good work and is cheap.

that and with a hoist the average backyard mechanic can do a swap on a saturday, fine tune things on a sunday and be back on the road monday morning.

that and with a hoist the average backyard mechanic can do a swap on a saturday, fine tune things on a sunday and be back on the road monday morning.

I checked Brandywine's online parts locator and it said there were no 5.7L engines available. I'll call them to check.

I was thinking to ask someone on the forum that I know of that fiddles with engines to see if he might want to make some money on the side to do an engine swap for me, if I go the used route.

Scares me to think of a used engine, but since I don't use that vehicle to commute to work anymore, the engine I get for it only has to be able to handle maybe 1 or 2k miles a year. So if it already has 100-150k miles on it, I guess that's not too bad?

If I can get a new engine for $2k, and a used one is going to be over $600 - then I may as well spring for a new one and KNOW it will last, as opposed to HOPING the used one will last.

I checked Brandywine's online parts locator and it said there were no 5.7L engines available. I'll call them to check.

I was thinking to ask someone on the forum that I know of that fiddles with engines to see if he might want to make some money on the side to do an engine swap for me, if I go the used route.

Scares me to think of a used engine, but since I don't use that vehicle to commute to work anymore, the engine I get for it only has to be able to handle maybe 1 or 2k miles a year. So if it already has 100-150k miles on it, I guess that's not too bad?

If I can get a new engine for $2k, and a used one is going to be over $600 - then I may as well spring for a new one and KNOW it will last, as opposed to HOPING the used one will last.

There is a company that goes by the name of Jasper, they sell remanufactured engines. If it is the rings that are causing the smoke you could get by with just getting a short block from them, get your heads worked over at a shop, (valves ground, guides replaced, shaved etc...) then put all your old stuff like power steering, ac, alt etc.. on the new engine.
that should give you a couple hundred thousand more miles if the truck is in good shape otherwise.

I checked Brandywine's online parts locator and it said there were no 5.7L engines available. I'll call them to check.

I was thinking to ask someone on the forum that I know of that fiddles with engines to see if he might want to make some money on the side to do an engine swap for me, if I go the used route.

Scares me to think of a used engine, but since I don't use that vehicle to commute to work anymore, the engine I get for it only has to be able to handle maybe 1 or 2k miles a year. So if it already has 100-150k miles on it, I guess that's not too bad?

If I can get a new engine for $2k, and a used one is going to be over $600 - then I may as well spring for a new one and KNOW it will last, as opposed to HOPING the used one will last.

What year is your truck? You say that it is a 5.7L (350), they are common engines but the year helps as there were Vortec and non-Vortec engines. I have a short block that came from a 99 GMC Suburban that never smoked when I pulled it, the truck had 108000 miles on it when pulled. It could use a simple cleaning and have the upper end reinstalled.

What year is your truck? You say that it is a 5.7L (350), they are common engines but the year helps as there were Vortec and non-Vortec engines. I have a short block that came from a 99 GMC Suburban that never smoked when I pulled it, the truck had 108000 miles on it when pulled. It could use a simple cleaning and have the upper end reinstalled.

1994 Chevrolet Blazer 4x4 Silverado 1500 (2 door short wheel base)

1994 Chevrolet Blazer 4x4 Silverado 1500 (2 door short wheel base)

Hmm, so you should have 350 that is running a TBI setup.

1994 Chevrolet Blazer 4x4 Silverado 1500 (2 door short wheel base)

The reason why you are going to run into some issues with the finding of your engine is the change to the Vortec line of engines in 1996. You can drop in a newer engine but you will also need to add a different computer to control a 1996 and up 350.

The reason why you are going to run into some issues with the finding of your engine is the change to the Vortec line of engines in 1996. You can drop in a newer engine but you will also need to add a different computer to control a 1996 and up 350.

I do understand there is a difference - comes up when I try to get codes for issues that crop up via engine lights). I am told that 1994/1995 gives minimal info. via codes and 1996 + are more detailed. So that would obviously have something to do with the computer.

I do understand there is a difference - comes up when I try to get codes for issues that crop up via engine lights). I am told that 1994/1995 gives minimal info. via codes and 1996 + are more detailed. So that would obviously have something to do with the computer.

would also have to do with additonal sensors.

I do understand there is a difference - comes up when I try to get codes for issues that crop up via engine lights). I am told that 1994/1995 gives minimal info. via codes and 1996 + are more detailed. So that would obviously have something to do with the computer.

Well its more of the fact that you are running an On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) I equipped vehicle as opposed to an OBD II equipped vehicle. Your truck is running "ancient" computer technology that only monitored a few things, with the newer OBD II came more sensors different computers and more things (sensors)to have to look at or pay for. I would much rather work on your Blazer than newer trucks! They are simpler in a sense, it is also the same reason of why I have not parted with my 1978 C10, it is the last year for trucks to not have any pollution controls (very simple to work on). The proposed OBD III is promising to increase the number of dealer only repairs.

Well its more of the fact that you are running an On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) I equipped vehicle as opposed to an OBD II equipped vehicle. Your truck is running "ancient" computer technology that only monitored a few things, with the newer OBD II came more sensors different computers and more things (sensors)to have to look at or pay for. I would much rather work on your Blazer than newer trucks! They are simpler in a sense, it is also the same reason of why I have not parted with my 1978 C10, it is the last year for trucks to not have any pollution controls (very simple to work on). The proposed OBD III is promising to increase the number of dealer only repairs.

... the threat of "dealer only repairs" is enough to make me want to stick with the old vehicles, but I wonder how hard it will be to find parts for the old ones?

I have been trying to get a replacement front bumper, and every time I call Brandywine, they don't have any. Looks like I may end up buying a new one?

... the threat of "dealer only repairs" is enough to make me want to stick with the old vehicles, but I wonder how hard it will be to find parts for the old ones?

I have been trying to get a replacement front bumper, and every time I call Brandywine, they don't have any. Looks like I may end up buying a new one?

Is the bumper for the same truck? I am not promoting this company in anyway but look up LMC Truck for your parts. There are other companies that carry parts you just have to hunt for them. Also search on CL and use Junkyard Dog.com. Enter your info and the part that you are looking for and it will send your info to numerous junkyards and those that have it will contact you.

Brandywine has become a monopoly in the local area for used parts combine that with the high value of scrap and the junkyard may soon become obsolete.

And before anyone defends Brandywine, I do shop there when I am looking for some different things. I just like competition in the local marketplace, we the consumers win with competition.

Is the bumper for the same truck? I am not promoting this company in anyway but look up LMC Truck for your parts. There are other companies that carry parts you just have to hunt for them. Also search on CL and use Junkyard Dog.com. Enter your info and the part that you are looking for and it will send your info to numerous junkyards and those that have it will contact you.

Brandywine has become a monopoly in the local area for used parts combine that with the high value of scrap and the junkyard may soon become obsolete.

And before anyone defends Brandywine, I do shop there when I am looking for some different things. I just like competition in the local marketplace, we the consumers win with competition.

Yes it's for the same truck - so I have put the bumper on the back burner until I get the emissions issue taken care of (unless I find a well-priced used one, then I will buy it).

Yes it's for the same truck - so I have put the bumper on the back burner until I get the emissions issue taken care of (unless I find a well-priced used one, then I will buy it).

If I come across anything I will let you know. I am constantly looking for parts and pieces for myself and others. What is well priced in your opinion?

If I come across anything I will let you know. I am constantly looking for parts and pieces for myself and others. What is well priced in your opinion?

Up to $150 in good condition. Is that unreasonable?

Up to $150 in good condition. Is that unreasonable?

Rust free and solid should be @ $150-200. That is what I am finding for Ford bumpers. So not too unreasonable, IMO.

how about you just ask a few guys to come down with a compression tester and see if they can narrow it down for you.
excessive oil burning can be rings, head gaskets even a bad EGR can cause it.

talking about replacing an engine before you know what is wrong with it is just silly to be honest.

and for those that are not really sure what the EGR does, and why it was put on...
It is the Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve.
It takes exhaust and send it to the oil pan then back up and out of the engine. The idea is that the oil will catch carbon particles and leave a cleaner exhaust output.
It works
downside? it puts harmful carbon deposits in the oil and breaks it down sooner. ( I have an EGR restriction plate on my truck to stop this process.)

Timeline:

Spring 2011 - Failed emissions test
Fall 2011 - went to retest and they turned me away saying SUV was smoking too much
In a few weeks I am due to test again ......

The mechanic I use told me that I can try smokeless oil so that Emissions will let me test (turned me away a few months ago due to too much smoke), then I will get more time to figure out what to do with my SUV even if I fail again.

I was reading online that smokeless oil doesn't work BUT the mechanic said he ordered some (from a supplier in Georgia for $200) for a customer who used it and went through DC inspection just fine (meaning it worked).

I'm thinking this, if the smokeless oil works, I use that, then have the shop figure out what else caused me to fail Emissions last Spring, then maybe I get a year or 2 if I pass to figure out what's going on with my engine, and at the minimum a few more months if I don't pass.

So does smokeless oil work that anyone here knows of? I would assume maybe some brands work and some are just getting big $$ for a product that doesn't work.

Just to continue bcp's thought process, is the Blazer throwing a Check Engine Light? If I remember correctly on your truck it would be an amber engine symbol lit up on the dash. Is it running rougher than normal?

Just to continue bcp's thought process, is the Blazer throwing a Check Engine Light? If I remember correctly on your truck it would be an amber engine symbol lit up on the dash. Is it running rougher than normal?

yup engine light was on and I had it interpreted and was told (by different shop) it was EGR related - and I told the recent shop that. Why they didn't come to that determination is beyond me. So I just left a message for them this morning asking how much they would charge to replace the EGR. That could be the whole problem? I also asked how much a compression test would be, although I don't think I want a compression test until AFTER I see how it's running with the new EGR.

yup engine light was on and I had it interpreted and was told (by different shop) it was EGR related - and I told the recent shop that. Why they didn't come to that determination is beyond me. So I just left a message for them this morning asking how much they would charge to replace the EGR. That could be the whole problem? I also asked how much a compression test would be, although I don't think I want a compression test until AFTER I see how it's running with the new EGR.

Did they ever tell you what the code was exactly? Do you know how to pull the codes yourself? If you want a little free help to look deeper into it, you can go to Autozone and they will check the codes for free and give you a possible diagnosis.

yup engine light was on and I had it interpreted and was told (by different shop) it was EGR related - and I told the recent shop that. Why they didn't come to that determination is beyond me. So I just left a message for them this morning asking how much they would charge to replace the EGR. That could be the whole problem? I also asked how much a compression test would be, although I don't think I want a compression test until AFTER I see how it's running with the new EGR.

Flagging the EGR is generic, it could be anything in the EGR system, not just the valve. If the motor were burning oil and there was blow-by on the pistons, the EGR system probably couldn't handle the excess, and an alarm went off.

You need to get the specific code from the ODB to aid in a real diagnosis.

Just spoke to shop owner who said he's trying to figure out what could cause lots of smoke w/o high oil usage - I wasn't putting in a lot of oil during the months it started smoking like that. I said could a bad EGR cause that much smoke? He said he needed to think about it, but that a compression test would yield us some helpful information. Said he'd call me back after he gave it some thought.

Oh he also mentioned he was in the process of cannibalizing a 1996 Suburban and maybe that engine could work in my SUV? Now knowing there is a distinct difference between the 1994 and the 1996, would it work if it came to that?

Just spoke to shop owner who said he's trying to figure out what could cause lots of smoke w/o high oil usage - I wasn't putting in a lot of oil during the months it started smoking like that. I said could a bad EGR cause that much smoke? He said he needed to think about it, but that a compression test would yield us some helpful information. Said he'd call me back after he gave it some thought.

Oh he also mentioned he was in the process of cannibalizing a 1996 Suburban and maybe that engine could work in my SUV? Now knowing there is a distinct difference between the 1994 and the 1996, would it work if it came to that?

bcp hit the nail on the head and GWGuy is alluding to it as well, you might not need a new engine. You need good troubleshooting to take place first. It starts with the CEL code that is thrown by the truck, from there the troubeshooting begins. Thinking about it and putting testers on parts while watching it operate are two totally different things.

As for the 1996 Burb parts, ask for the bumper (I think they are the same as yours). To make a simple answer to your question without seeing the Burb no. My comprehension is that OBD II took full effect on trucks in 1996, which brought the last incarnation of the traditional Chevrolet small block in the "Vortec" design. The engines are similar but the computer, fuel delivery system, and cylinder heads are different than yours. If he is willing to swap engines make sure that he is willing to swap the computer and the associated harness to properly control the engine. If not, your CEL will be on and you will get booted out of the VEIP station