Ok guys, daughter has a 2001 PT cruiser having problems. Ran fine Monday, went out Tues morning, started car and it immediately cut off. Would not start again. Took out fuse for the ignition/auto shut off, put it back in, you could something resetting itself. started car again, cut off again after a few seconds. Any ideas what the problem is? Got a 16 yr old that is having withdrawls because she doesn't have a car to drive. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hmm, could it possibly be the wrong key? The security system, when its detects a bad key, meaing one thats not programmed for that car, will do that. Also if you plug in an engine computer thats not programmed for that car, but thats not very likely. More likely is that the key is not the right one. Whatever you do, dont do that start stall thing more than three time, the fourth attempt, if tis the key, cna result in the engine computer locking itself, which requires a dealership tool to unlock.

Nope, not the key. She only has one key to this car. Has been suggested that possibly could be a glitch with the alarm system not reading her key. What a pain this has become!!

Is something plugging her exhaust? like the guts from her cadaletic (sp) converter. Had that happen to me once and it displayed the same symptoms as yours.

I would say that your first problem would be it's a PT Cruiser...

sorry had to...

Did you try disconnecting the battery? This will reset the electronics and could possibly fix it.

It's a simple quick check that might save you alot of time and/or money...

planning on disconnecting the battery this evening to see if that works. Don't worry, my daughter is already getting remarks from friends about it being a pt cruiser and that is the problem. She loves her car and I am happy with that. Just need to get the girl her wheels running again!

Nope, not the key. She only has one key to this car. Has been suggested that possibly could be a glitch with the alarm system not reading her key. What a pain this has become!!

Could be. Heres one thing you can do. This will pull up any stored trouble codes.

Turn your key to the ON mode from the OFF position 3 times like this, OFF-ON-OFF-ON-OFF-On. Note that ON is one place BACK from start. Just far enough that the gauges and warning lights on the cluster come on, but not so far the car starts. Count as you go, when you hit that third time, dont move the key, and watch the odometer.

After a minute or less, you should get one of two things.

Either a code like P0633, or it will say dONE. Let me know what you find. Now, did the car come with two keys, and she lost one, or did it not even come with a second key?

will do that when I get home and let you know what I find out. she only got one key when she got the car. we found out later that the car came from an auction.

Hmmm, if its lost memory of the key, then you will need to get it reporegrammed, and thats a pain. there might be a local locksmith thats so equipped, might not, if not, it might have to get towed to the nearest dealership. These vehicles have one of the best factory antitheft systems out there, but the downside is that when your on the outside, its a bugger to get back in. Let me know how the key dance ends up. I have class tonite, might not get back to you til late.

Hmmm, if its lost memory of the key, then you will need to get it reporegrammed, and thats a pain. there might be a local locksmith thats so equipped, might not, if not, it might have to get towed to the nearest dealership. These vehicles have one of the best factory antitheft systems out there, but the downside is that when your on the outside, its a bugger to get back in. Let me know how the key dance ends up. I have class tonite, might not get back to you til late.

No problem. will let you know what I find out.

Ok guys, daughter has a 2001 PT cruiser having problems. Ran fine Monday, went out Tues morning, started car and it immediately cut off. Would not start again. Took out fuse for the ignition/auto shut off, put it back in, you could something resetting itself. started car again, cut off again after a few seconds. Any ideas what the problem is? Got a 16 yr old that is having withdrawls because she doesn't have a car to drive. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hmmmm.. wouldn't be silver, would it? With the black passenger window trims kinda rainbow colored from age? And a small ding in the hood? Bought used ? Trailer hitch receiver?

:whistle:

Do Chryslers use the same type of Passive Anti Theft systems as Ford?
Don't know - however -

If there is a transmitter attached to our key ring such as: a real estate security device or even something as innocuous as one of those speed pass or gas cards that you wave over the pump, they interfere with the key fob and the PAT receiver.
It then shuts down the ignition and the car won't start.
Cost me two tows, and $230 to figure that out.

Good luck. What a PITA...
:geek:

Its sorta realated to PASS its called SKIS, or Sentry Key Immobilizer System. Uses the same Texas Instruments RFID tech, just a better implementation. Ive not heard of any interference from other devices, but I suppose its possible. Easy enough to strip the keyring of any possible offenders.

Is something plugging her exhaust? like the guts from her cadaletic (sp) converter. Had that happen to me once and it displayed the same symptoms as yours.

catalytic

I know....STFU.....okay:lmao:

Its sorta realated to PASS its called SKIS, or Sentry Key Immobilizer System. Uses the same Texas Instruments RFID tech, just a better implementation. Ive not heard of any interference from other devices, but I suppose its possible. Easy enough to strip the keyring of any possible offenders.



A tech told me about something he heard, so I found it here:



Securilock - Passive Anti-Theft System (P.A.T.S) (http://www.p71interceptor.com/securilock/)

"The following items may prevent the vehicle from starting:
Large metallic objects
Electronic devices on the key chain that can be used to purchase gasoline or similar items
A second key on the same key ring as the coded key
If any of these items are present, you need to keep these objects from touching the coded key while starting the engine. These objects and devices cannot damage the coded key, but can cause a momentary “no start” condition if they are too close to the key during engine start. If a problem occurs, turn ignition OFF and restart the engine with all other objects on the key ring held away from the ignition key. Check to make sure the coded key is an approved Ford coded key."

I still feel like an idiot since I haven't had a problem since I took a security key fob off over TWO years ago!
:drool:

Thanks for adding to my knowledge. I havent heard of anything like this for the Dodge system, maybe its not as sensetive to outside influence.

A tech told me about something he heard, so I found it here:



Securilock - Passive Anti-Theft System (P.A.T.S) (http://www.p71interceptor.com/securilock/)

"The following items may prevent the vehicle from starting:
Large metallic objects
Electronic devices on the key chain that can be used to purchase gasoline or similar items
A second key on the same key ring as the coded key
If any of these items are present, you need to keep these objects from touching the coded key while starting the engine. These objects and devices cannot damage the coded key, but can cause a momentary “no start” condition if they are too close to the key during engine start. If a problem occurs, turn ignition OFF and restart the engine with all other objects on the key ring held away from the ignition key. Check to make sure the coded key is an approved Ford coded key."

I still feel like an idiot since I haven't had a problem since I took a security key fob off over TWO years ago!
:drool:

Good info, but I'm thinking this will stop an engine from starting at all. The OP says it starts, runs, then quits. I don't think the passive systems act that way. I'm thinking a sensor, like maybe the air flow sensor on the intake. It would act that way, start, then die.

And on a similar note, I just came home from Solomons. There was a purple PT Cruiser with the hood up getting put on a flatbed. Owner didn't look happy.

Good info, but I'm thinking this will stop an engine from starting at all. The OP says it starts, runs, then quits. I don't think the passive systems act that way. I'm thinking a sensor, like maybe the air flow sensor on the intake. It would act that way, start, then die.

And on a similar note, I just came home from Solomons. There was a purple PT Cruiser with the hood up getting put on a flatbed. Owner didn't look happy.

Not in a Dodge, I cant speak to the Fords. In a Dodge, the key validity check actually takes a couple seconds. Ive done this both ways. In my Neon, which is the under the skin twin to the PT, I ended up with a PCM that had gotten a wrong VIN programmed. Starts, runs, then dies twice before I yanked it and sent it in for reprogramming. In my Charger, experimenting, I did two things. I shielded the keys RFID portion with two layers of tin foil, and sure enough, 2-3 seconds of engine running, then stall. Then I separated the RFID portion from the physical key, and got the same results.

If its not the key, I will be very surprised.

Not in a Dodge, I cant speak to the Fords. In a Dodge, the key validity check actually takes a couple seconds. Ive done this both ways. In my Neon, which is the under the skin twin to the PT, I ended up with a PCM that had gotten a wrong VIN programmed. Starts, runs, then dies twice before I yanked it and sent it in for reprogramming. In my Charger, experimenting, I did two things. I shielded the keys RFID portion with two layers of tin foil, and sure enough, 2-3 seconds of engine running, then stall. Then I separated the RFID portion from the physical key, and got the same results.

If its not the key, I will be very surprised.

Ok, I learned something here. I wouldn't have thought there would be a delay.

Yes, also interested in the solution.

Yeah, its not strictly a passive system, like GMs old system where the key had one of six possible resistors in it, and that enabled the ignition. In this case, the car sends a query based on a "seed" code, randomly generated each time, to the key, which actually has a small microprocessor, powered by induction.

The key takes that seed and plugs it into a algorithm, based in part on the cars VIN, which is why keys must be programmed, and generates a solution to the algorithm, which it sends back to the car. The anti-theft module not only checks the solution against its own solution, but sends the raw data, the seed, and the keys solution, off the the engine computer.

The engine computer runs the seed through its own calculations, checks that against the answers provided by the other two, and sends its results back to the anti-theft module. If it all agrees, the car keeps running. If not, the car shuts down.

Ok Guys.....Daughter was going to try her other key only to find that the battery had completely DIED, no lights, no radio, NOTHING. Charged the battery and the car started and kept running, no problems. started again this morning and kept running. Guess we will see how long this lasts. thanks for ALL your help and suggestions.

Good to hear. :buddies:

Good to hear. :buddies:

You are not going to believe this!!! now she has a problem with a delay when she turns the key off. she says there seems to be a few second delay in cutting off. We go from one thing to another! first she can't keep it running and now she can't get it to shut off!

Did you ever do the "key dance"?