lawn seeding

[kom526]

Originally Posted by rickl5296

There is a whole lot of jawing going on here. Some is good advice, but most I am sorry to say is not. Everybody thinks that they're an expert lawn guy. Bottom line; if you want a decent lawn and you don't know what you're doing (which is evident from most of the posts here), interview and hire a quality lawn care professional.

What's the name of your company?

[Baja28 (Premo)]

Originally Posted by kom526

What's the name of your company?

And where were you when I couldn't get anyone to call me back?

[Cowgirl]

Originally Posted by kom526

What's the name of your company?

See this.

Crab Grass

[rickl5296]

Guess I should make more time to be here. I am not going to reveal the name of my company here because I don't feel it is appropriate to do so. But, I will say that the answer is here. I plan to become a sponsor soon. Anyway, I will attempt to go through each thread and tell you what is right and what is wrong.

[rickl5296]

Originally Posted by itsbob

Kill off your lawn in late fall, reseed then..

Our neighbors across the street have the nicest looking lawn I've ever seen.. First year they killed off the entire lawn, then came back and reseeded.

Now they kill off small portions (where the weeds won't give up) and just replant those small patches..

I want to do the same, but I want to level my yard first.

If you do replant in the Spring, I think I would let it grow out considerably, and cut it at a very high height until it's well established.

This is mostly right, but the right time to seed is September-October. Grassseed needs two things to germinate; proper soil temperature (above 60 degreees- below 80) and proper moisture. Also, most summer annual weeds are at the end of their life cycle so they won't compete with your new grass. You can seed into November as a last resort if the weather is mild, but expect the lawn to fill in slowly.

AS far as killing the lawn, you have missed the window of opportunity where perennial weeds like bermuda grass (Wire grass) is concerned. If total renovation is required, two applications of glyphosate (RoundUp) in August is what is needed for best results. However, there are ways to deal with it during the growing season. Definately, avoid spring seeding. Some years it will work; last year was one. but most years you are reseeding in fall anyway. Best to fight the weeds through summer and seed in fall.

[rickl5296]

Originally Posted by vraiblonde

When Yardguy did my new baby grass, it was in the fall. He said to leave the leaves alone until they got really thick, then rake lightly. A layer of leaves won't hurt it, it's just when the new grass gets smothered that it's bad. You also have to water every single day, without fail, and twice a day where the sun hits.

I agree with this, A light layer of leaves on a newly seeded lawn is actually beneficial because it will act as a mulch and protect the moisture from evaporation. Actual leaf drop usually occurs in mid November, so there is plenty of time to establish the lawn before you have to do heavy duty leaf removal. It is also beneficial to mulch the leaves into the turf, but you have to be sure that you do not leave heavy clippings and that there is good conditions for organic matter breakdown. Always be extra careful with your leaf removal activities on new grass. It is best to blow rather than rake. Heavy equipment can cause problems on wet soil.

Watering is challenging and there is no rule of thumb because everyone has different soil conditions. New seed and seedlings must remain moist or they will die. It is also ok to water at night in the fall. The cooler temperatures and less humidity are not conditions conducive for fungus to develop. Watering at night reduces evaporation.

[rickl5296]

Originally Posted by Ken King

Sod.

Sod is very expensive, but is the best option in the spring if an instant lawn is required.

[toppick08 (Premo)]

[rickl5296]

Originally Posted by toppick08

Zoysia or Tarheel 2 red fescue.....just some ideas.

A few things to consider; Zoysia is a warm season grass and only has about a 5 month growing season in the transition zone. It will green up in late May and go dormant once again in late September. If managed properly it will create a beautiful stand of turf for the middle of the summer. It is important to remember that zoysia will not grow in the shade in this area. The farther south you go, the better it will do because it has a longer growing season. Red fescue should only be used in the shade and should be in a blend with chewings fescues, hard fescues and shade tolerant varieties of Kentucky blue grass.

[rickl5296]

Originally Posted by jetmonkey

Sounds like I should plan for this fall, and just let the leaves lay? They get thick pretty fast. I have these oak trees that seem to grow dead leaves all winter. The back yard is pretty covered right now and they look like they are still holding like 50% of their leaves.


So here is my next concern. I have lots and lots of moles also. Now I know to get rid of moles you need to get rid of the grubs and to get rid of the grubs you need to poison. I live pretty close to the water, as does most anyone in SMC I guess. I'm worried about the poison affecting my birds that I feed and getting into the bay. I am alos worried about the weed killer and fertilizer, etc. getting into the bay. Should I be?

It is a mis-conception that moles indicate a grub problem. Moles are insectivores. Sure, they eat grubs but that is not their only food source. Studies were conducted where they analyzed the stomach contents of the mole and 60% was earth worms.

The problem with the indescriminate use of contact insecticides is that you kill benefical organisms and insects that help you to create loamy soil and prey on the lawn damaging insects. Beneficials include earthworms, ground and rove beetles, ants, wasps, others. It is best to try to reduce moles with a different method. Castor oil products work, but have to be applied often and liberally. There is a product under the Tomcat label available in most stores that you can use. The active ingredient is bromethalyn. It is important to follow the label and use it properly so you do not waste bait. It is a plastic worm. Moles will eat it and it will kill them if they come in contact with it. However, moles will return. The lawn needs to be thick so that the moles have a tough time pushing up the sod.

It is ok to use lawn products as long as you know what you are doing and read the label. It is only when lawn products are mis-used that they may become a problem. Also, you can waste alot of $$$$ if you don't know what you are doing.