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Old 10-21-2009, 05:25 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by tazzman View Post
Ok guys, daughter has a 2001 PT cruiser having problems. Ran fine Monday, went out Tues morning, started car and it immediately cut off. Would not start again. Took out fuse for the ignition/auto shut off, put it back in, you could something resetting itself. started car again, cut off again after a few seconds. Any ideas what the problem is? Got a 16 yr old that is having withdrawls because she doesn't have a car to drive. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hmmmm.. wouldn't be silver, would it? With the black passenger window trims kinda rainbow colored from age? And a small ding in the hood? Bought used ? Trailer hitch receiver?

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Old 10-21-2009, 06:00 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Do Chryslers use the same type of Passive Anti Theft systems as Ford?
Don't know - however -

If there is a transmitter attached to our key ring such as: a real estate security device or even something as innocuous as one of those speed pass or gas cards that you wave over the pump, they interfere with the key fob and the PAT receiver.
It then shuts down the ignition and the car won't start.
Cost me two tows, and $230 to figure that out.

Good luck. What a PITA...
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Old 10-21-2009, 06:09 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Its sorta realated to PASS its called SKIS, or Sentry Key Immobilizer System. Uses the same Texas Instruments RFID tech, just a better implementation. Ive not heard of any interference from other devices, but I suppose its possible. Easy enough to strip the keyring of any possible offenders.
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Old 10-21-2009, 06:16 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Is something plugging her exhaust? like the guts from her cadaletic (sp) converter. Had that happen to me once and it displayed the same symptoms as yours.
catalytic

I know....STFU.....okay
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Old 10-21-2009, 07:16 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Its sorta realated to PASS its called SKIS, or Sentry Key Immobilizer System. Uses the same Texas Instruments RFID tech, just a better implementation. Ive not heard of any interference from other devices, but I suppose its possible. Easy enough to strip the keyring of any possible offenders.


A tech told me about something he heard, so I found it here:



Securilock - Passive Anti-Theft System (P.A.T.S)

"The following items may prevent the vehicle from starting:
Large metallic objects
Electronic devices on the key chain that can be used to purchase gasoline or similar items
A second key on the same key ring as the coded key
If any of these items are present, you need to keep these objects from touching the coded key while starting the engine. These objects and devices cannot damage the coded key, but can cause a momentary “no start” condition if they are too close to the key during engine start. If a problem occurs, turn ignition OFF and restart the engine with all other objects on the key ring held away from the ignition key. Check to make sure the coded key is an approved Ford coded key."

I still feel like an idiot since I haven't had a problem since I took a security key fob off over TWO years ago!
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Old 10-21-2009, 07:42 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Thanks for adding to my knowledge. I havent heard of anything like this for the Dodge system, maybe its not as sensetive to outside influence.
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Old 10-21-2009, 07:48 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by smilin View Post
A tech told me about something he heard, so I found it here:



Securilock - Passive Anti-Theft System (P.A.T.S)

"The following items may prevent the vehicle from starting:
Large metallic objects
Electronic devices on the key chain that can be used to purchase gasoline or similar items
A second key on the same key ring as the coded key
If any of these items are present, you need to keep these objects from touching the coded key while starting the engine. These objects and devices cannot damage the coded key, but can cause a momentary “no start” condition if they are too close to the key during engine start. If a problem occurs, turn ignition OFF and restart the engine with all other objects on the key ring held away from the ignition key. Check to make sure the coded key is an approved Ford coded key."

I still feel like an idiot since I haven't had a problem since I took a security key fob off over TWO years ago!
Good info, but I'm thinking this will stop an engine from starting at all. The OP says it starts, runs, then quits. I don't think the passive systems act that way. I'm thinking a sensor, like maybe the air flow sensor on the intake. It would act that way, start, then die.

And on a similar note, I just came home from Solomons. There was a purple PT Cruiser with the hood up getting put on a flatbed. Owner didn't look happy.
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Old 10-21-2009, 10:53 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Good info, but I'm thinking this will stop an engine from starting at all. The OP says it starts, runs, then quits. I don't think the passive systems act that way. I'm thinking a sensor, like maybe the air flow sensor on the intake. It would act that way, start, then die.

And on a similar note, I just came home from Solomons. There was a purple PT Cruiser with the hood up getting put on a flatbed. Owner didn't look happy.
Not in a Dodge, I cant speak to the Fords. In a Dodge, the key validity check actually takes a couple seconds. Ive done this both ways. In my Neon, which is the under the skin twin to the PT, I ended up with a PCM that had gotten a wrong VIN programmed. Starts, runs, then dies twice before I yanked it and sent it in for reprogramming. In my Charger, experimenting, I did two things. I shielded the keys RFID portion with two layers of tin foil, and sure enough, 2-3 seconds of engine running, then stall. Then I separated the RFID portion from the physical key, and got the same results.

If its not the key, I will be very surprised.
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Old 10-21-2009, 10:58 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by glhs837 View Post
Not in a Dodge, I cant speak to the Fords. In a Dodge, the key validity check actually takes a couple seconds. Ive done this both ways. In my Neon, which is the under the skin twin to the PT, I ended up with a PCM that had gotten a wrong VIN programmed. Starts, runs, then dies twice before I yanked it and sent it in for reprogramming. In my Charger, experimenting, I did two things. I shielded the keys RFID portion with two layers of tin foil, and sure enough, 2-3 seconds of engine running, then stall. Then I separated the RFID portion from the physical key, and got the same results.

If its not the key, I will be very surprised.
Ok, I learned something here. I wouldn't have thought there would be a delay.

Yes, also interested in the solution.
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Old 10-21-2009, 11:32 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Yeah, its not strictly a passive system, like GMs old system where the key had one of six possible resistors in it, and that enabled the ignition. In this case, the car sends a query based on a "seed" code, randomly generated each time, to the key, which actually has a small microprocessor, powered by induction.

The key takes that seed and plugs it into a algorithm, based in part on the cars VIN, which is why keys must be programmed, and generates a solution to the algorithm, which it sends back to the car. The anti-theft module not only checks the solution against its own solution, but sends the raw data, the seed, and the keys solution, off the the engine computer.

The engine computer runs the seed through its own calculations, checks that against the answers provided by the other two, and sends its results back to the anti-theft module. If it all agrees, the car keeps running. If not, the car shuts down.
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