DEEKAYPEE8569
Well-Known Member
Specifically, Zep Commercial 128-fl oz. Liquid Mold Remover
Opinions? Anybody ever use this? TIA
Opinions? Anybody ever use this? TIA
Liquid Mold Remover
- Thread starter DEEKAYPEE8569
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Bleach or vinegar and baking soda are all you really need to kill mold. Mold needs moisture, so getting rid of the source is important too.
DEEKAYPEE8569
Well-Known Member
I would be using this on a fiberglass shower stall. Something similar to this.
The base turns rust colored due to hard well water. There are three panels that make up the walls; in the seams of these panels; in the joints of the corner pieces mold proliferates because scrubbing those areas is near impossible. That said, I found a spare spray bottle, filled it with bleach, threw on some work clothes and doused the whole shower. After letting it sit for a bit, I wiped everything down and rinsed it out; definitely a difference; it's white again.
The base turns rust colored due to hard well water. There are three panels that make up the walls; in the seams of these panels; in the joints of the corner pieces mold proliferates because scrubbing those areas is near impossible. That said, I found a spare spray bottle, filled it with bleach, threw on some work clothes and doused the whole shower. After letting it sit for a bit, I wiped everything down and rinsed it out; definitely a difference; it's white again.
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PeoplesElbow
Well-Known Member
CLR should work well with the rust.
I like Lysol mildew remover.
I like Lysol mildew remover.
Odds are, it's not hard water causing the problem, but rather iron related bacteria. Shock chlorination of the well itself 3-4 times a year will probably keep the fixtures from staining. Automatic chlorination or green sand filters work for more aggressive iron related problems. A quick check is to look in the toilet tank, besides discoloration (and occasional foul smell), see if there is an "oil slick" on top of the water. A BART's test is the only reliable method for testing IRB's. I've attached some links for you.
http://aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/_m/M115/welcome.html
http://www.lamotte.com/en/drinking-water/microbiological-testing
http://www.chemtechford.com/ironbacteria.html
http://www.hach.com/bart-test-combi...forming-bacteria-3-each/product?id=7640250884
http://www.ehow.com/how-does_4966040_green-sand-filter-work.html
http://www.ohiopurewater.com/shop/customer/home.php
DEEKAYPEE8569
Well-Known Member
Just now read this.
nutz, you mentioned shock chlorination of the well. Doesn't that require above-ground access? We have an old well, so we don't have that; no cap or anything to avoid with the lawn mower. We do, however have a two-cartridge filter in the supply line between the well and the cold water tank. Still, we get rust-colored stains in the showers/bathtub and sinks and iron and/or calcium buildup on the hot water heater's heating element, that requires an occasional cleaning/replacement.
Dad used to pour 1c. (Guessing) of bleach into the new filter cartridge canister da**it when it needed to be replaced, and ran the water through the supply tank, water heater and the faucets til the bleach smell dissipated. That took care of the sulfur smell for a while; til it was time to repeat the process.
Dad's solution was a short term fix. It doesn't take long for the water supply to flush out that small amount. I would get the water tested and make sure whoever does it includes an IRB test (not required by Md. Standards). If positive, you would then add a metering pump /holding tank and add small amounts of chlorine (~2ppm's) all the time. If negative and iron content is high, you would want to add a green sand filter.
Be careful about the "water treatment co's" out there. Their job is to get your money out of your pocket.
One company guaranteed their system would fix my problem (later found to be IRB's). When I suggested I get my money back if it didn't work, they said no.
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