Tile Work

itsbob

itsbob

I bowl overhand
We ordered tile and asked them to install it.. tile was about $550, install they want $1500.

I want to do it myself BUT the boss says we're getting it installed, something about not affording anymore appendages.

So I'm asking who can refer an installer that won't charge us $1500 to install 92 Sq ft of tile (to include cement board).
 
G

General Lee

Well-Known Member
Jesus, 1500 for 92 sq foot!? basically a 10x10 room? That is ridiculous. I'm also surprised by the price of the tile for that small area. I'd do it myself.
 
N

nutz

Well-Known Member
itsbob said:
We ordered tile and asked them to install it.. tile was about $550, install they want $1500.

I want to do it myself BUT the boss says we're getting it installed, something about not affording anymore appendages.

So I'm asking who can refer an installer that won't charge us $1500 to install 92 Sq ft of tile (to include cement board).
Click to expand...

Depending on type of tile and size, it's running $5 -35 per sq.ft. Backsplash is about three times as much as a floor. Showers are more expensive than floors, etc.
 
Clem72

Clem72

Well-Known Member
nutz said:
Depending on type of tile and size, it's running $5 -35 per sq.ft. Backsplash is about three times as much as a floor. Showers are more expensive than floors, etc.
Click to expand...

He said cement board, so I assume shower. Backsplashes are easy enough, showers a bit tougher due to cramped work space. I hate floors though, just too much trouble to properly level and to correct for too much deflection for tile (which, given the builders around here, seems to be almost every floor). I leave flooring to the professionals.
 
itsbob

itsbob

I bowl overhand
Clem72 said:
He said cement board, so I assume shower. Backsplashes are easy enough, showers a bit tougher due to cramped work space. I hate floors though, just too much trouble to properly level and to correct for too much deflection for tile (which, given the builders around here, seems to be almost every floor). I leave flooring to the professionals.
Click to expand...

it's an entrance room/ mud room over a basement. Cement board for stability/ rigidity.
 
glhs837

glhs837

Power with Control
Clem72 said:
He said cement board, so I assume shower. Backsplashes are easy enough, showers a bit tougher due to cramped work space. I hate floors though, just too much trouble to properly level and to correct for too much deflection for tile (which, given the builders around here, seems to be almost every floor). I leave flooring to the professionals.
Click to expand...

That's what I'm facing, is a floor where I've got a high joist for some reason, and I need to rip out the old 7/16ths ply and particleboard, level it all, then get new subfloor and substrate down. Kitchen/dining, foyer, and den, whole front half of the first floor.
 
Clem72

Clem72

Well-Known Member
glhs837 said:
That's what I'm facing, is a floor where I've got a high joist for some reason, and I need to rip out the old 7/16ths ply and particleboard, level it all, then get new subfloor and substrate down. Kitchen/dining, foyer, and den, whole front half of the first floor.
Click to expand...

I'd be tempted to hit the existing subfloor with a sander, patch the cracks and holes with spackle, and float an inch of concrete leveler over the whole thing.
 
glhs837

glhs837

Power with Control
Clem72 said:
I'd be tempted to hit the existing subfloor with a sander, patch the cracks and holes with spackle, and float an inch of concrete leveler over the whole thing.
Click to expand...


Right, but that bottom layer of plywood is sort of tightly butt laid with freaking non ring-shank nails. Squeaks like nobody's business. And the particleboard is just that, the "oatmeal" stuff. Plus that would give me a solid inch over the other half of the first floor, height-wise before the tile. I know some folks might still seal it with a waterproofing chemical and pour over, but I simply cannot leave all that badness underneath. Didn't in the living room, where all I was laying was laminate planks, sure cant under tile. Plan is to lay T&G Advantec with cement board on top, which will still net me some rise, I'm hoping it's slight enough that I can make the transition with one of the Schulter pieces like this...

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Schluter...Metal-L-Angle-Tile-Edging-Trim-A125/100209272


Huh, just noticed this.......

https://www.amazon.com/Tavy-Thin-Skin-100-Sq-Roll/dp/B000ND18E6

This guy has a pretty good rep from what I read, this might solve my height problem.
 
glhs837

glhs837

Power with Control
Clem72 said:
For filling in large voids I have seen people use roofing tiles. They last forever, are easy to shape/cut, and are thin, can be nailed/screwed through, and don't compress over time.
Click to expand...

By height problem I meant overall finished height. Right now, the living room laminate and the rest of the first floor (7/16ths ply, 7/16ths particleboard, two layers of vinyl) are about even. If I remove all of that, and want my new install to come close in height to that laminate, it's a challenge, given the Advantec is 22/32nds, and when you add 1/2 inch cement board I'm well over an inch and then the tile on top of that.
 
H

Hannibal

Active Member
Part of the cost may be in the multiple trips. Day 1 would be stripping out existing and laying down backer board. Maybe get to spreading mortar and placing tile. Someone would then need to come back to grout. Doesn't take long but you have to keep letting it dry and then wipe down/buff. So it's a two gig at minimum I'd think. Add to that any additional work (replacing trim, etc.).

There is no way of convincing the wife to allow you to DIY? It's really a cut and dry process. At my old place, I redid three bathrooms (which involves far more than the tile) and it went smoothly. And I'm not the "handy man" type. Youtube and some reading was all it took. A basic 10x10 room should be a piece of cake. A few bucks in tools (if you don't have them) for a wetsaw ($100 at Harbor Freight). Backer board isn't much ($100 for board/tape/screws). Grout and mortar isn't expensive either. With tools and supplies - you're under $300. You can rent the saw too but why not pay into owning?

You could do it over a weekend no problem (and even then only a handful of hours each day). It's really not hard.
 
Chris0nllyn

Chris0nllyn

Well-Known Member
If you're in the market (and have a strong back), I have a couple sheets of 5/8"x4'x8' sheets of Durock I won't be using anymore.

They're heavy as all hell, but I'd let them go for cheap. They're normally $27 each from Home Depot.
 
Chris0nllyn

Chris0nllyn

Well-Known Member
Goldenhawk said:
Interesting. That explains the higher-than-usual price too. Didn't know you could even get Durock that size.
Click to expand...

I got it from a contractor friend of mine, so maybe that's why. I know HD sells it, but not sure if they stock it.

If all else fails, I'll make a bug out shelter with it.
 
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