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Thread: Under cabinet compact water heater

  1. #11
    I bowl overhand itsbob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by black dog View Post
    You better look at the specs for those heaters, 0.5 gallons per minute, and what temperature you get out of it will depend on what temperature you well or city water is when it enters the heater. And it's tough to take a shower with 0.5 gallons per minute of maybe hot water.
    Look at the specs of these electric tankless heaters, in most cases you need alot more electric than you think. Check water temp in and water temp out along with how many amps of 120 or 240 you need to run it.
    That was an example if you only wanted 120v .. cheaper install.

    There were many more that were 240V for 4 - 6 GPM.. much more than a sink faucet will use.
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  2. #12
    Registered User PeoplesElbow's Avatar
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    One that that will help and is almost free is insulating the pipes too the sink.

    It doesn't help first thing in the morning after the water has been off for a while but if the hot water was used 10 mins ago it sure does. I insulated all of my pipes in my crawl space and behind the walls when I remodeled the bathroom and it has made a significant difference in time to get hot water at various points throughout the day.
    If what I say offends you then you really don't want to hear what I keep to myself.

  3. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by itsbob View Post
    That was an example if you only wanted 120v .. cheaper install.

    There were many more that were 240V for 4 - 6 GPM.. much more than a sink faucet will use.
    And i will say this again Bob, look at the specs for what is needed for installation, to run a tankless electric heater at 3 to 6 GPM you will need 60 to 150 + amps of electrical service for each heater. And the true temperature output will be determined by inlet water temperature along with the amperage of the heater.
    When inlet temperature drops so does outlet temperature.
    If electric tankless are the Shizzle, how come everyone doesn't install a large one when they replace the tank heater.

    ( Pessssttttttt.. because they would have to heavy up with another 200 amp service just to run the electric tankless whole house heater.
    That's why almost all tankless heaters are NG, propane or fuel oil.
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  4. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Clem72 View Post
    Easy to install, especially if you already have a circuit nearby (maybe for garbage disposal). But most of these systems keep the water at or near the desired temp so you can expect to see a measurable impact on your electric bill. So if you get one, may as well use it as much as possible.
    I have a insta-hot, it keeps about a quart of water hot at my kitchen sink. It keeps water at 200. What we are talking about is tankless electric heaters at point of use.
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  5. #15
    Member grandpa's Avatar
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    We have used small electric water heaters ( 1-2 gallons) in 2 of our bathrooms for sinks only and love them. our water pipes run under the slab here and water takes forever to get to the showers.
    For a quick wash they are a godsend.

  6. #16
    I bowl overhand itsbob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by black dog View Post
    And i will say this again Bob, look at the specs for what is needed for installation, to run a tankless electric heater at 3 to 6 GPM you will need 60 to 150 + amps of electrical service for each heater. And the true temperature output will be determined by inlet water temperature along with the amperage of the heater.
    When inlet temperature drops so does outlet temperature.
    If electric tankless are the Shizzle, how come everyone doesn't install a large one when they replace the tank heater.

    ( Pessssttttttt.. because they would have to heavy up with another 200 amp service just to run the electric tankless whole house heater.

    That's why almost all tankless heaters are NG, propane or fuel oil.
    You're right, but it's much easier and cheaper to run an additional electric line instead of gas line for an under the sink installation.. NOTHING saying they can't also do a gas under the sink tank less, or even a recycling system with a whole house gas tank less..

    Had a furnace in a townhouse that used a similar set up (recycling system) to supplement the heat pump with hot water in the heat exchanger using a tank less hot water heater. Ensured you weren't running cold water through your furnace for the first 5 minutes the fan was on.

    But again, the installation cost of all the additional plumbing, the water heater installation and the water heater itself would get expensive.
    Nero played the fiddle, Obama danced the Tango.

    Quote Originally Posted by BadGirl
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  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by black dog View Post
    I have a insta-hot, it keeps about a quart of water hot at my kitchen sink. It keeps water at 200. What we are talking about is tankless electric heaters at point of use.
    That's what you and bob are talking about. I didn't see sam clarify if that is what he was talking about.

  8. #18
    They're horrible.

    You need at least 240V, or a high-amperage 120V circuit (unlike a garbage disposal) to get it to consistently give you hot water.

    We have one in our construction trailer and hot water lasts long enough to wash dishes from lunch, and that's it.

    You may be better off getting a recirculation pump and use the water heater you have.
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  9. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Chris0nllyn View Post
    They're horrible.

    You need at least 240V, or a high-amperage 120V circuit (unlike a garbage disposal) to get it to consistently give you hot water.

    You may be better off getting a recirculation pump and use the water heater you have.

    Some here just don't believe that a simple 120v plug in tankless will give you vast amounts of steamy hot water.
    It just takes too much amperage to get 120 water from a electric tankless other than maybe to wash your hands. And even when the large units are installed in a home when the water load picks up they are incapable of delivering the needed hot water. Junk..

    They tried large electric tankless heaters in two cottages at Solomans Navy Rec a few years back, they pulled them out within a few weeks and installed Propane Rinnai tankless units.

    In alot of homes a return ( loop ) can be installed to the hot water heater and radiant will circulate the water. Most folks will close the valve after a few months of elevated cost of running the water heater.
    Last edited by black dog; 05-10-2017 at 12:22 PM.
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