97 Astro Van

What is the problem?

  • Radiator

    Votes: 1 25.0%

  • Bad Pump out-of-box

    Votes: 1 25.0%

  • Wrong color antifreeze

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Faulty radiator Cap

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Head Gasket

    Votes: 1 25.0%

  • Fan Clutch

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Put T Stat back in

    Votes: 1 25.0%
  • Total voters
    4
  • Poll closed .
river rat

river rat

BUCKING GOAT
97 Astro Van problem....Need input

It all started in the fall with a bad heater coil.

Replaced the heater coil about 6 weeks ago.

Then it overheated one day after a bad freeze.
Got it to thaw out after nursing it by warming the engine up and then letting it cool down.

Replaced radiator with 50/50 solution.

Didn't have problems for a few eeks then blame.
Heat goes out and temp sky rockets.

Removed the t-stat.
Nope.

Ran radiator cleaner through it....followed instructions and that didn't work.

Bought brand new water pump yesterday and installed.
Replaced fluid in radiator with 50/50
T-stat is still out.

It was driven from Brandywine to Nanjemoy then from Nanjemoy to Ft. Washington then Dunkirk then on the way back to Charles county on the 231 bridge, traffic was stopped for 10minutes. Fan clutch was working while sitting. At this time the truck did not overheat but, when traffic was re-opened about a mile later the needle soared.

Waited till engine cooled and added a little fluid. But Van overheats.

What do you suspect??

Poll coming......
 
Last edited:
GWguy

GWguy

*
None of the above. obstruction in the heater core, core lines.

Also, check carefully around the motor to see if there is any fluid leakage. Possible cracked block (not causing the overheating, just a side issue from freezing). Open the radiator cap and look for oil contamination.

Ah, read read your post. Possible air-bound. Air in the system.
 
river rat

river rat

BUCKING GOAT
GWguy said:
None of the above. obstruction in the heater core, core lines.

Also, check carefully around the motor to see if there is any fluid leakage. Possible cracked block (not causing the overheating, just a side issue from freezing). Open the radiator cap and look for oil contamination.

Ah, read read your post. Possible air-bound. Air in the system.
Click to expand...

I am not trying to be funny but I have heard of bleeding brakes , cooling system, never.


Please DO TELL
 
GWguy

GWguy

*
river rat said:
I am not trying to be funny but I have heard of bleeding brakes , cooling system, never.


Please DO TELL
Click to expand...

One of two ways I know of. Under certain conditions, you can pull air from a bad hose clamp joint. Far and few between. More likely, it could be caused by the pistons pushing air into the water system thru a crack in the head/manifold/head gasket. I seem to remember this happening to a company Ford Escort we had with an in-line transverse mounted 6. I'll ask my office guy tomorrow what the resolution was, if he remembers.
 
Merlin99

Merlin99

Visualize whirled peas
PREMO Member
Check the oil, if it looks like a chocolate frosty you have a blown head gasket.
 
Ponytail

Ponytail

New Member
In my old Ranger, you had to fill the block with water at the t-stat housing. The pump would NOT just recirculate it from the radiator. It would essentially "vapor lock".

Make sure that you have water/coolant in all the places that you are supposed to. Usually, engine temp spikes are caused by the sudden movement of coolant/water, which usually happens when you ain't got enough in it.

If that ain't it, Try checking/replacing the temperature sensor, or put in a mechanical one to make sure you aren't chasing ghosts.
 
Last edited:
river rat

river rat

BUCKING GOAT
kwillia said:
I voted for Jack-in-the-box because they have hamburgers...:clap:
Click to expand...

Don't you have to go out west for them.

Ponytail said:
In my old Ranger, you had to fill the block with water at the t-stat housing. The pump would NOT just recirculate it from the radiator. It would essentially "vapor lock".

Make sure that you have water/coolant in all the places that you are supposed to.
Click to expand...

HMMmmmmm.
 
I

Inkpen

Guest
Hey River, Think I found you a qualified mechanic to help you find the problem!! (just kidding...):howdy:
 

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flomaster

flomaster

J.F. A sus ordenes!
Ponytail said:
In my old Ranger, you had to fill the block with water at the t-stat housing. The pump would NOT just recirculate it from the radiator. It would essentially "vapor lock".

Make sure that you have water/coolant in all the places that you are supposed to. Usually, engine temp spikes are caused by the sudden movement of coolant/water, which usually happens when you ain't got enough in it.

If that ain't it, Try checking/replacing the temperature sensor, or put in a mechanical one to make sure you aren't chasing ghosts.
Click to expand...

Yo! You at work?
 
gumbo

gumbo

FIGHT CLUB !
river rat said:
It all started in the fall with a bad heater coil.

Replaced the heater coil about 6 weeks ago.

Then it overheated one day after a bad freeze.
Got it to thaw out after nursing it by warming the engine up and then letting it cool down.

Replaced radiator with 50/50 solution.

Didn't have problems for a few eeks then blame.
Heat goes out and temp sky rockets.

Removed the t-stat.
Nope.

Ran radiator cleaner through it....followed instructions and that didn't work.

Bought brand new water pump yesterday and installed.
Replaced fluid in radiator with 50/50
T-stat is still out.

It was driven from Brandywine to Nanjemoy then from Nanjemoy to Ft. Washington then Dunkirk then on the way back to Charles county on the 231 bridge, traffic was stopped for 10minutes. Fan clutch was working while sitting. At this time the truck did not overheat but, when traffic was re-opened about a mile later the needle soared.

Waited till engine cooled and added a little fluid. But Van overheats.

What do you suspect??

Poll coming......
Click to expand...

It's either a blown head gasket, cracked head or the lower radiator hose is collapsing, do to the radiator wire rotted or not in the hose when replaced.
Use a radiator pressure tester to determine if head is cracked or head gasket is leaking exhaust in to Radiator.
 
Last edited:
river rat

river rat

BUCKING GOAT
gumbo said:
It's either a blown head gasket, cracked head or the lower radiator hose is collapsing, do to the radiator wire rotted or not in the hose when replaced.
Use a radiator pressure tester to determine if head is cracked or head gasket is leaking exhaust in to Radiator.
Click to expand...

Okay, I'll look into this too

Thanks for all the input
 
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