Auto A/C Repair

Crewdawg141

Crewdawg141

IYAMYAS!!!!!
Does anyone have any experience with the Auto Electrical/AC specialist in Hughesville? I am dealing with MIL's car and I do not have the time to try to fix this one myself so I am looking for a good A/C mechanic that will actually uses gauges first and not throw a can of R134A at it first. The car (2005 Ford 500) is blowing warm air, it has equal pressures on the High and Low sides 90 psi, the compressor is not kicking on and the relays and fuses have been checked (all are good). Ideas on fix or recommendations for a good A/C guy is appreciated.
 
Crewdawg141

Crewdawg141

IYAMYAS!!!!!
From what I have been checking up on regarding this car a common source of A/C failure is the scroll valve in the back of the compressor or the compressor itself. If I have to I will fix this thing on my own but I am going to end up dropping the coin on a recovery system. Usually I have cars that have lost their charge and have not had the need to recover anything, this time around is a different story. At this point, I am trying to figure out if buy a used and supposedly working recovery unit is worth the effort or should I just buy a new unit. Craigslist has a couple of Snap-ons that supposedly work for a similar cost to new smaller units. I am still hunting for a good diagram of this models A/C system to make sure that I am not missing a switch any where else in the system.
 
Chris0nllyn

Chris0nllyn

Well-Known Member
Crewdawg141 said:
From what I have been checking up on regarding this car a common source of A/C failure is the scroll valve in the back of the compressor or the compressor itself. If I have to I will fix this thing on my own but I am going to end up dropping the coin on a recovery system. Usually I have cars that have lost their charge and have not had the need to recover anything, this time around is a different story. At this point, I am trying to figure out if buy a used and supposedly working recovery unit is worth the effort or should I just buy a new unit. Craigslist has a couple of Snap-ons that supposedly work for a similar cost to new smaller units. I am still hunting for a good diagram of this models A/C system to make sure that I am not missing a switch any where else in the system.
Click to expand...

Make your own:
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=493617

:lol:

Maybe try taking it to a shop and have them recover the freon, you do the repair, and have them put it back? I'm sure they'll try talking you into it and all.

Stinger makes a recovery unit for about $530 on Amazon if you want to go that route. Maybe try craigslist.

Or, do the illegal thing and let it purge out, and re-fill it from empty. Don't forget oil either.

*Legal* You have to be licensed to recover freon, so you may be between a rock and a hard place.
 
blazinlow89

blazinlow89

Big Poppa
I would trouble shoot some more before going all in. Not sure how the Ford's system is compared to others, my S10 used to still kick the compressor on, even when the internals were AFU. Made trouble shooting interesting, but the loud grinding noise coming from the compressor was the dead give away.

A bad LPS will usually keep the AC from turning on altogether, as it is assuming that the system does not have enough freon in it. It should be on the accumulator, and have a wiring harness on it.
 
Chris0nllyn

Chris0nllyn

Well-Known Member
blazinlow89 said:
I would trouble shoot some more before going all in. Not sure how the Ford's system is compared to others, my S10 used to still kick the compressor on, even when the internals were AFU. Made trouble shooting interesting, but the loud grinding noise coming from the compressor was the dead give away.

A bad LPS will usually keep the AC from turning on altogether, as it is assuming that the system does not have enough freon in it. It should be on the accumulator, and have a wiring harness on it.
Click to expand...

Agreed, at the very lease check to see if the compressor clutch is getting voltage when the A/C should turn on.
 
DoWhat

DoWhat

Deplorable
PREMO Member
Chris0nllyn said:
Check your pressure switches, if not, the compressor clutch, or the compressor itself is bad.
Click to expand...

There is away way to jumper the pressure switch to make sure that is the problem, but I can't remember how to do it.

Google it.
 
Crewdawg141

Crewdawg141

IYAMYAS!!!!!
Chris0nllyn said:
Make your own:
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=493617

:lol:

Maybe try taking it to a shop and have them recover the freon, you do the repair, and have them put it back? I'm sure they'll try talking you into it and all.

Stinger makes a recovery unit for about $530 on Amazon if you want to go that route. Maybe try craigslist.

Or, do the illegal thing and let it purge out, and re-fill it from empty. Don't forget oil either.

*Legal* You have to be licensed to recover freon, so you may be between a rock and a hard place.
Click to expand...

Ha, it looks far easier (time wise) to order the Singer than to make that creation. I have been looking at the Stinger previously, I like how it is American made (personal thing). As for the legal aspect, According to the EPA site certification is required, From http://www.epa.gov/ozone/title6/608/faq.html
"How can I become EPA certified? (Motor Vehicle Certification Programs)
Technicians who repair or service R-12 or R-134a motor vehicle air conditioners (MVACs) must be trained and certified by an EPA-approved organization. Training programs must include information on the proper use of equipment, the regulatory requirements, the importance of refrigerant recovery, and the effects of ozone depletion. To be certified, technicians must pass a test demonstrating their knowledge in these areas. A list of approved testing programs is available on the Section 609 Technician Certification Programs page.

So this is what I find to be truly asinine, we as consumers can buy R143A darn near everywhere but we cannot recover our own without EPA blessing, WTF? I like learning new things so I will look into getting that certification later.
 
Crewdawg141

Crewdawg141

IYAMYAS!!!!!
blazinlow89 said:
I would trouble shoot some more before going all in. Not sure how the Ford's system is compared to others, my S10 used to still kick the compressor on, even when the internals were AFU. Made trouble shooting interesting, but the loud grinding noise coming from the compressor was the dead give away.

A bad LPS will usually keep the AC from turning on altogether, as it is assuming that the system does not have enough freon in it. It should be on the accumulator, and have a wiring harness on it.
Click to expand...

Yeah, this thing is not making the dreaded noises. It just stopped working all together. I agree that I need to chase current to make sure that it is not a simple switch. I did find a switch that is internal to the compressor that could also be the problem, first I need to make sure that the compressor is not puking any oil. As long as no oil leaks are found and all of the other system electrical components check out I think that it is the replaceable switch in the compressor itself.
 
Crewdawg141

Crewdawg141

IYAMYAS!!!!!
So after running the car up on ramps, it has been determined that it is in need of a compressor replacement. It is puking oil and the leak detect that was put in last year. So hopefully this is the only part needing replacement aside from the receiver/drier.
 
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