Best marina, boat yard for transom repair
- Thread starter somddad
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EmptyTimCup
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sink it in the bay, collect insurance and by something newer ....
but seriously if the transom was getting soft from water damage, Personally I would get a different unit ..... maybe it is cheaper to repair then by new, but what else rotten ?
Rebuilding the transom in an I/O is a major PITA because its usually not possible to 'excavate' the rotten wood out from the top like you often can with an outboard motor hull (not that they are any piece of cake either...but I've done several, including one Wellcraft.). Everything on the I/O transom has to get cut out from the inside of the engine compartment.
If you have to pay somebody to do that job it will be expensive. Even using a lowball hourly rate like 50 bucks, you are still looking at probably $2500+ in labor and probably 3-4 hundred in materials.
Is the hull worth that kind of investment?
If you have to pay somebody to do that job it will be expensive. Even using a lowball hourly rate like 50 bucks, you are still looking at probably $2500+ in labor and probably 3-4 hundred in materials.
Is the hull worth that kind of investment?
Don't know if you've gotten this taken care of already or not, but I just thought I would offer my $.02...
Another acceptable way to tackle it is to cut off the outer skin leaving a lip of 3" or 4" around the permiter, replace the core, bond the skin back on and then grind/glass/fair/finish the cut. This doesn't give you the opportunity to check the condition of the stringers and other structural components like Gilligan's method does, but it is generally less intrusive/expensive.
If you think you might like to try and tackle this yourself, I would be happy to discuss things I have learned over the course of my first transom job on a Mako 17.
As far as local shops that can do the work, I've only seen the results of one place, and based on that I couldn't in good conscience recommend them. PM me if you would like to know what shop it was.
Good luck.
Brian
P.S. - If your boat happens to be a V20, check out Wellcraft V20.
Another acceptable way to tackle it is to cut off the outer skin leaving a lip of 3" or 4" around the permiter, replace the core, bond the skin back on and then grind/glass/fair/finish the cut. This doesn't give you the opportunity to check the condition of the stringers and other structural components like Gilligan's method does, but it is generally less intrusive/expensive.
If you think you might like to try and tackle this yourself, I would be happy to discuss things I have learned over the course of my first transom job on a Mako 17.
As far as local shops that can do the work, I've only seen the results of one place, and based on that I couldn't in good conscience recommend them. PM me if you would like to know what shop it was.
Good luck.
Brian
P.S. - If your boat happens to be a V20, check out Wellcraft V20.
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VERY nice work! I would not have tries to suggest that to most since it requires a degree of skill with composite repair that few have.
I just spent last weekend on the replacement of a deck in an 18' Woodson and the transom in a 16' generic skiff. All epoxy-glass-plywood combinations.
Does he do outboard work? Don't mean to tread hijack but I need an impeller changed on a 40 horse Mercury outboard. If I can get a service manual I may try it myself but am having trouble getting through to the Mercury customer service.
That is some damn nice glass work too. I used to do it in the Navy and enjoyed it but damn, I don't know if I would have tackled that.
must be the season....
i reworked the transom of my aluminum jonboat this weekend. the last guy used a terrible "lay up" consisting of a 5/4X6 on the inside and a couple of pieces (not even glued together) of treated 2X6 for the outside. not to mention he didn't understand the importance of choosing galvaniclly similar fasteners.
The biggest failure was the aluminum bolts capped with steel nuts. needless to say there were no nuts left, just some rust crusted to the bolt.
Aluminum is always a PITA when it comes to fasteners..I feel your pain. We (my company) design aluminum ships.
I recently helped a local guy replace the structural parts of the transom in his aluminum fishing boat. It was pretty bent up because he kept running it well past failure of the inner wood 'reinforcement' but at least it had not been further mangled up by an amateur repair effort. We added a much heavier aluminum extruded profile c-channel cap to replace the thin formed sheetmetal transom cap.
Just yesterday I finished the wood part of laying anew transom in to an old 16' single-skin glass skiff that I've head for about ever. Easy transom repair though..the wood was laid in and then just glassed over from the inside. Easy to remove, easy to replace.