Ford Ranger

Agee

Well-Known Member
94 Ford Ranger, extended Cab, 4 cyld (8 plug wires).

Solid hooptey my friend bought at an auction for $500.00. Problem, turns over, no start. A spray of starter fluid it will start. Fuel pump replaced, found blown fuse for this circuit. fuel pump relay checked. In circuit no sign of pump operation (audible), removed and jumpered (power pins) can hear the fuel pump, but no start. The collision cut-out switch checked and good. Didn't have a chance to do anymore troubleshooting...

If anyone out there has any experience with these vehicles and possibly experienced the same issue(s) any advise would be appreciated!

Thanks!
 

glhs837

Power with Control
So, it's not quite clear, you do have fuel flow into the motor now? Or you are just hearing the while of the pump? If you are not sure, and don't want to pop a line, remove ignition lead, crank motor with a plug pulled, see if you are getting fuel from the injectors. If you do have gas, is it good gas?
 
If it kicks on starter fluid, you probably have a fuel issue. Carb may be gummed. Do as glhs said; pull the fuel line off the carb and crank it. If no fuel, could be a bad pump or clog. I say probably because I believe those motor used a cam for the fuel pump, and the cam could be worn, but that's less likely. Solution is to replace with an electronic fuel pump.

Oh 94. May be injectors, not carb....
 

Agee

Well-Known Member
If it kicks on starter fluid, you probably have a fuel issue. Carb may be gummed. Do as glhs said; pull the fuel line off the carb and crank it. If no fuel, could be a bad pump or clog. I say probably because I believe those motor used a cam for the fuel pump, and the cam could be worn, but that's less likely. Solution is to replace with an electronic fuel pump.

Oh 94. May be injectors, not carb....

So, it's not quite clear, you do have fuel flow into the motor now? Or you are just hearing the while of the pump? If you are not sure, and don't want to pop a line, remove ignition lead, crank motor with a plug pulled, see if you are getting fuel from the injectors. If you do have gas, is it good gas?

Yes, fuel injected, electric fuel pump replaced (inside tank), hear the whine of the fuel pump, with jumpered relay. Not smelling any fuel at the motor, didn't have a chance to pull fuel lines at motor or at fuel filter. Just put a few gallons in to try and start it.
 

glhs837

Power with Control
Yes, fuel injected, electric fuel pump replaced (inside tank), hear the whine of the fuel pump, with jumpered relay. Not smelling any fuel at the motor, didn't have a chance to pull fuel lines at motor or at fuel filter. Just put a few gallons in to try and start it.

Then, yes, for sure check fuel at easiest point after tank, and keep going til you find the point where it stops.
 

Midnightrider

Well-Known Member
Yes, fuel injected, electric fuel pump replaced (inside tank), hear the whine of the fuel pump, with jumpered relay. Not smelling any fuel at the motor, didn't have a chance to pull fuel lines at motor or at fuel filter. Just put a few gallons in to try and start it.

in my old F150 a similar problem turned out to be the main omputer box located under the dash. It took a lot of parts swapping to narrow it down. good luck
 

Ken King

A little rusty but not crusty
PREMO Member
When you turn the key do you get the "check engine light"? If not it is the computer.
 

glhs837

Power with Control
When you turn the key do you get the "check engine light"? If not it is the computer.

could be a billion things before you get to the computer, things the computer doesn't look at an so would set no code, especially on a 1994 model year.
 

Ken King

A little rusty but not crusty
PREMO Member
could be a billion things before you get to the computer, things the computer doesn't look at an so would set no code, especially on a 1994 model year.

Yeah, name 999,999,999 of them. :biggrin: Yeah it could be a lot of things but if you don't get a "check engine" light it will more than likely be the computer.
 

Vince

......
94 Ford Ranger, extended Cab, 4 cyld (8 plug wires).

Solid hooptey my friend bought at an auction for $500.00. Problem, turns over, no start. A spray of starter fluid it will start. Fuel pump replaced, found blown fuse for this circuit. fuel pump relay checked. In circuit no sign of pump operation (audible), removed and jumpered (power pins) can hear the fuel pump, but no start. The collision cut-out switch checked and good. Didn't have a chance to do anymore troubleshooting...

If anyone out there has any experience with these vehicles and possibly experienced the same issue(s) any advise would be appreciated!

Thanks!

IIRC

2300 CC Pinto motor ..... 2 plugs per cylinder

good engine

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32057
Good little 4 cyl. The body on my old Ranger gave out before the engine did.....oh, those 4 extra plugs and wires...afterburn plugs and they are a royal pain in the ass to replace. :banghead:
 

Agee

Well-Known Member
When you turn the key do you get the "check engine light"? If not it is the computer.

clogged fuel filter on the frame rail

IIRC

2300 CC Pinto motor ..... 2 plugs per cylinder

good engine

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32057

Good little 4 cyl. The body on my old Ranger gave out before the engine did.....oh, those 4 extra plugs and wires...afterburn plugs and they are a royal pain in the ass to replace. :banghead:

Very useful info!

No "check engine light", would agree "a billion possible causes", before considering the ECU, so I'm down to 999,999,995 causes :yay:

Considered the fuel filter, but didn't have the time to jack and check. Originally, thought it was an 8-cyl, with 8 plug wires, but found out other wise. Good to hear it's a "good motor", even though it went into a "pinto", my first car btw...

Unfortunately, the vehicle is 200 miles away, so I'll have to wait to dive back in.

Thanks everyone for the info! :cheers:
 

Vince

......
Very useful info!

No "check engine light", would agree "a billion possible causes", before considering the ECU, so I'm down to 999,999,995 causes :yay:

Considered the fuel filter, but didn't have the time to jack and check. Originally, thought it was an 8-cyl, with 8 plug wires, but found out other wise. Good to hear it's a "good motor", even though it went into a "pinto", my first car btw...

Unfortunately, the vehicle is 200 miles away, so I'll have to wait to dive back in.

Thanks everyone for the info! :cheers:
Put almost 300000 mi on mine before the RH front fender collapsed onto the frame. Rusted completely out where the top of the strut connects to the body......and I drove it like that for quite awhile longer.
 

GURPS

INGSOC
PREMO Member
Good to hear it's a "good motor", even though it went into a "pinto", my first car btw...

Unfortunately, the vehicle is 200 miles away, so I'll have to wait to dive back in.

Thanks everyone for the info! :cheers:


1980 Pinto 4sp 2300cc motor :yay: great car

then into the Mustang as well
.... and had a Turbo in the Mustang SVO and the Thunderbird 'Turbo' Coupe
IIRC there was a guy that drag raced a pinto with a turbo 2300 all Ford Parts


Ford got a lot of use out of that 70's design
 

glhs837

Power with Control
Well, first thing is fuel to motor. However you check, for sure check that before considering electronics. They can and do go bad, but with nowhere near the frequency people think. If you have spark (which would be the thing most likely to be killed by a bad computer, then the only thing stopping you from making fire is fuel. Ken, most of them are straight electrical issues, ranging from bad grounds, ignition modules, battery, etcetera. But since he has spark ( as shown by it's ability to start on fluid), and we can be pretty sure he's getting air, the only remaining thing left for the fire triangle is fuel. So lets focus on fuel. In a car this old, the computer has almost nothing to do with the fuel system other than perhaps tweaking injector pulse timing. So, IMO, the fist thing is to verify fuel flow to motor. If I had that, I would verify injectors are firing, which if you have access is as simple as applying a mechanics stethoscope to injectors and listen for them to open and close.

My point is that the ratio of problems being solved by replacing engine computers vice the number of engine computers replaced is pretty low. "If you don't have a check engine light, replace the computer" seems like crappy troubleshooting to me. If you don't have one, it most commonly means that the fault is one that is not on a computer monitored component.
 

Ken King

A little rusty but not crusty
PREMO Member
Well, first thing is fuel to motor. However you check, for sure check that before considering electronics. They can and do go bad, but with nowhere near the frequency people think. If you have spark (which would be the thing most likely to be killed by a bad computer, then the only thing stopping you from making fire is fuel. Ken, most of them are straight electrical issues, ranging from bad grounds, ignition modules, battery, etcetera. But since he has spark ( as shown by it's ability to start on fluid), and we can be pretty sure he's getting air, the only remaining thing left for the fire triangle is fuel. So lets focus on fuel. In a car this old, the computer has almost nothing to do with the fuel system other than perhaps tweaking injector pulse timing. So, IMO, the fist thing is to verify fuel flow to motor. If I had that, I would verify injectors are firing, which if you have access is as simple as applying a mechanics stethoscope to injectors and listen for them to open and close.

My point is that the ratio of problems being solved by replacing engine computers vice the number of engine computers replaced is pretty low. "If you don't have a check engine light, replace the computer" seems like crappy troubleshooting to me. If you don't have one, it most commonly means that the fault is one that is not on a computer monitored component.
And my point was that if one does not get the "check engine" light when the key is in the run position then it is likely that there is a fault with the computer.

Here is the wiring diagram http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f802c54bb figure 23 should be the one in question.
 

glhs837

Power with Control
Ah, you mean it never comes on, not that it comes on then goes off after self check is complete. Sorry, misunderstood what you were saying. Agreed, it you turn to key to ON, but not to START, and the Service Engine Soon or Check Engine light never come on, that would indeed indicate a problem with the ECU. Also pretty sure you would not be getting ignition were it that bad off. I don't know how common that failure mode is, but I'm pretty sure a problem with the fuel system is far more likely.
 
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