oops....
Yeah. Oops is right. Especially since it was the company office was upstairs.
oops....
Yeah. Oops is right. Especially since it was the company office was upstairs.
So I was wondering what the difference between the Amazon one I listed and the Home Depot one you listed. I see this one has breakers in addition to the switches, what is the reason for that?
The one you linked has pop-up style circuit breakers to protect the individual circuits. That's fine if the combination of CBs installed matches the wiring in your house. The one he linked to uses standard format circuit brakers which make it easier for an electrician to customize the different CBs to match the loads in the house.
Pro Tip: Do not forget to connect the neutral when wiring a 220V generator in to your panel box.
The one you linked has pop-up style circuit breakers to protect the individual circuits. That's fine if the combination of CBs installed matches the wiring in your house. The one he linked to uses standard format circuit brakers which make it easier for an electrician to customize the different CBs to match the loads in the house.
oh pshaw....other than killing all of the computers and every other electrical device throughout the offices, it wasn't so bad. If I recall correctly, the fluorescent lights survived...
I see what you mean. I also note that my two tied circuits are both 20s, while one on his is a 30 and one a 20. You are saying that he could swap the 30s out for 20s? Or reduce the 15s in favor of more 20s as long as he doesnt exceed the overall capacity of the unit?
For me I had planned on matchy matchy
This. They are essentially the same thing.
And ground it correctly. If using extension cords, the generator frame acts as ground but if using a MTS, the grounding systems need to be connected as long as the neutral doesn't switch in the MTS. If it doesn't switch, it's not a seperately derived system according to the NEC and the neutral and ground don't need to be bonded at the generator.
If your MTS switches the neutral, it's now a seperately derived service and needs grounding per 250.30(A).
I do believe that the generators I own all have a ground stud to install a ground wire to mommy Earth. It beats the alternative of going through a human on the way to mommy Earth.
Having the Genny frame grounded doesn't do much with most having rubber feet. Unless you go with shock anyone that touchs the frame when you have an open netural somewhere,
Like so many folks that wire in a genny or a sub panel end up with.
I see what you mean. I also note that my two tied circuits are both 20s, while one on his is a 30 and one a 20. You are saying that he could swap the 30s out for 20s? Or reduce the 15s in favor of more 20s as long as he doesnt exceed the overall capacity of the unit?
For me I had planned on matchy matchy
You could swap out any GE breakers but they also offer different models. I'm pretty sure you're stuck with one 240V circuit though as the switches for each pole are tied together from the factory. There may be another model that has (2) 2P spaces though.
I'm beginning to think the most prudent solution would be just to bite the bullet and get a whole house backup - just in case.
Or MOVE. To a house not so totally dependent on electricity.
Pneumatics, go with that
I'm beginning to think the most prudent solution would be just to bite the bullet and get a whole house backup - just in case.
Or MOVE. To a house not so totally dependent on electricity.
http://www.reliancecontrols.com/Documents/ProTran Instructions.pdf
If I'm reading this right, any pair can be used for 240 if wired properly, meaning that the reds from both switches are wired to the poles of the double in the main panel. So I can use 2 15s for a 30 amp circuit instead of two 20s in case I have single 20s I would repfer to sue for something else thats on a sigle 20 amp circuit.
Doesn't matter because the ground path isn't going from frame to ground, it's using the grounding conductor to tie into the building's grounding system and since the MTS never switches the ground, the circuit maintains a ground path at all times. The frame grounding only connects the frame to ground conductor.
Now, if the MTS switches the ground/neutral, you'll need a ground rod at the genny to maintain a ground fault path in a seperately derived system.[/QUOTE]
I've seen many many subpanels and separate breaker panels that were not wired correctly.
Hence my post, You know that just because it NEC doesn't mean it gets wired the correct way.
Sometimes running that silly extra wire back to the main service panel just doesn't get done.
There are plenty of non grounded panels out there for sure.
I'm still workin on my small nuclear reactor project.
Not really. A double pole breaker is physically tied together. if one half the circuit trips, both trip off. In a scenario where the breakers are not physically tied, one can pop but leave the other live.
Pneumatics, go with that
I'm still workin on my small nuclear reactor project.