Hay Moisture Testing

Busterduck

Kiss my Ass
Since this has been an issue for me lately, I'd thought I would share some information with the group. I hope you all find it useful. :flowers:

What Makes For Good Horse Hay ?

Horse owners and hay producers don't always agree on how to identify safe, good-quality horse hay. Here is a list of seven key characteristics buyers should consider when evaluating horse hay. Krishona Martinson and Paul Peterson, University of Minnesota extension agronomists, spoke about these characteristics at recent Minnesota Horse Expo seminars.

1) Mold/Moisture -- Buy hay baled between 15-17% moisture and it should be free of mold. "With small square bales, you can sometimes get away with baling at 18-20% moisture without spoilage," notes Peterson. More-dense big square bales should be put up below 16% moisture for safe storage. Hay baled above 25% moisture poses the threat of severe heat damage or spoilage, mold growth, and/or hay fires. Hay put up at 20-25% moisture and properly treated with organic acid preservatives can be fed safely to horses. Horses, however, may require a short adaptation period to readily consume this hay.

2) Maturity -- Don't equate seed heads with "good" hay. Seed heads just indicate that the plants are mature, with thick stems, more fiber, less protein and decreasing levels of digestible energy. Horses that aren't working hard or lactating may be able to get by with a "stemmier" hay containing more seed heads, Martinson and Peterson say. But hay with more leaves and softer, smaller stems is better quality.

Consider grass hays that have been harvested when seed heads have just begun to form. They have good fiber digestibility and more available energy than more mature hay. Legume hay harvested at about the 10% flower stage is usually a leafy hay with extra protein that horses will convert into ammonia. Mature legumes make hay that does not exceed a horse's protein level in most cases, but also tends to be very coarse, according to Martinson and Peterson. Softer hay will be consumed more readily, they explain. "If it feels rough to you, it will feel rough to the horse," Peterson says.

3) Cut Or Crop -- Don't base nutritional value on when hay is cut, the agronomists say. Maturity, followed by hay curing and storage, determine what nutrients a hay holds. Because plants that grow under cooler temperatures build more digestible fiber, first-crop hay may have more digestible fiber than later cuttings -- but it is not a guarantee. First cutting can often produce more coarse hay than later cuttings. But good and bad horse hay can be produced in any cutting.

4) Grass Hay Vs Alfalfa -- Know how much digestible fiber and energy your horses will need -- then find hay that will provide it. Alfalfa and clover generally have higher protein content than grasses. So alfalfa hay is a good protein source for young developing horses. But it may have more protein than what other horses need. Fiber from grasses is more digestible than from alfalfa and other legumes at the same maturity stage, say Martinson and Peterson.

5) Smell -- Not all sweet-smelling hay is good, caution the experts. Sometimes hay smells sweet because sugars within it carmelize, which indicates mold presence. Horse owners should look closely at the hay to make sure they aren't dealing with mold issues.

6) Color -- A green color is only a fair indicator of hay quality, Peterson says. "Bleached color indicates exposure to sunlight or rain, and can mean vitamin A has oxidized. But other essential nutrients are usually present in bleached hay." When only bleached hay is available, horse owners should have it tested.

7) Storage Considerations/Spoilage --Once you've bought it, keep stored hay away from water and wild animals, which can contaminate it. Studies have shown that up to 50% of a hay bale can be ruined when stored where moisture can be wicked up into it from the ground. Round bales should be dense and well-formed with twine or net wrap, and less than 18% moisture to minimize storage loss potential.

Martinson and Peterson recommend that horse owners take representative samples of every hay lot to a forage testing lab for an equine nutritional analysis. Information about sampling and forage testing can be found at www.foragetesting.org.
 

happyappygirl

Rocky Mountain High!!
Thanks BusterDuck! Great info! I hope your "issue" is resolving?

I have a question...we switched to some local round bales, which are freshly cut. The horses dumpage is now quite soft and mushy rather than nice and solid like it was on the straight timothy or "older" (as in cured - not as in OLD) hay we were using...is this typical? will it resolve itself? Or will it stay soft on this newly cut stuff? I've never noticed it happening before.
 

Katt

Active Member
happyappygirl said:
Thanks BusterDuck! Great info! I hope your "issue" is resolving?

I have a question...we switched to some local round bales, which are freshly cut. The horses dumpage is now quite soft and mushy rather than nice and solid like it was on the straight timothy or "older" (as in cured - not as in OLD) hay we were using...is this typical? will it resolve itself? Or will it stay soft on this newly cut stuff? I've never noticed it happening before.
You need to remember to let it age some before feeding freshly cut hay. We let our hay age for about a month for small bales of hay (the ones you can pick up) and we salt it when we put it up in the loft. You might make your horses sick on freshly cut and baled hay. I would definately let it age some before feeding. If you can find some older hay from last year to feed for a couple weeks, it should be fine later on.
 

Busterduck

Kiss my Ass
Katt said:
You need to remember to let it age some before feeding freshly cut hay. We let our hay age for about a month for small bales of hay (the ones you can pick up) and we salt it when we put it up in the loft. You might make your horses sick on freshly cut and baled hay. I would definately let it age some before feeding. If you can find some older hay from last year to feed for a couple weeks, it should be fine later on.


Salt will pull the moisture from the humid air onto your bale. Also, it will rust everything in your barn at a rapid pace. Some horses won't eat salted hay. I personally, wouldn't recommend salting.
 

Katt

Active Member
Busterduck said:
Salt will pull the moisture from the humid air onto your bale. Also, it will rust everything in your barn at a rapid pace. Some horses won't eat salted hay. I personally, wouldn't recommend salting.
salt will also promote your horse to drink more, which will help in digestion better and have less of a problem with colic. I've never had a horse, and I've had many, not eat the hay that's salted. I am not layering teh salt on it like salted meat, for god's sake! a handful or two, tossed on a layer of bales as they are stacking them, won't "pickle" the barn.
 

Busterduck

Kiss my Ass
Katt said:
salt will also promote your horse to drink more, which will help in digestion better and have less of a problem with colic. I've never had a horse, and I've had many, not eat the hay that's salted. I am not layering teh salt on it like salted meat, for god's sake! a handful or two, tossed on a layer of bales as they are stacking them, won't "pickle" the barn.


I would imagine that a handful or two wouldn't hurt at all. I read where this was old practice when hay was baled slightly too moist but had not started to mold. Does it help at all? I have read conflicting reports.

My opinion on the issue comes from a fiasco in which a hay supplier (whose hay was baled wet and was molding) bought me about 100lbs of salt and said to douse the hay with salt. I did as I was told, stupid I know, and the next day the hay was soaked with water from the moisture in the air. Actual droplets had formed everywhere on the bales. EVERYTHING in my barn rusted. I wanted to choke him!

Now, here we are again and his hay has molded because he bales it too wet. All the testing equipment in the world won't help if he doesn't use it. I tested his bales and some came out to 36% moisture - which is WAY too high. Just bought myself a moisture tester so I won't get into this situation again.
 

HorseLady

Painted Spirit
I think it is time to find a new supplier!! Yes, you can sparsley salt hay that may have a LITTLE bit of moisture in it and I've never had a horse not eat that, but if it is already turning moldy REFUSE IT!! Hope this year is better for you!
 

mingiz

Horse Poor
I agree with Katt I have had hay farmers tell me that also. But I have never used the method. Been lucky i guess. I have also learned the hard way about getting damp/hot bales. They don't cure out they mold! My hay guy waits until it has set in the barn before he will sell it. He doesn't sell hay to horse people unless it's good , otherwise he feeds it to his cows. Don't find many like that.
 

Katt

Active Member
We used to grow hay and now, just buy it, but when we did grow it, we would only bale once the largest of the stems would break clean when bent, and not just bend. If it snapped, then it was dry enough to bale. You still have to allow for the few areas in the field that are lower lying and quite possibly wetter, but when you are facing the threatening skies, it's a judgement call. Plus, if it's stored in an area without very good ventilation, then you are asking for trouble too. I totally understand the aggrivation of opening a bale, or more at a time and finding it's moldy or dusty. It's like throwing the money out the window. Luckily, though, most horses will turn up their noses at bad hay and actually leave it behind, though I still won't offer it to them. We are feeding mostly draft horse and so you know, we are feeding "bulk" rate of food. Lots O' Groceries!
 

Katt

Active Member
Busterduck said:
I would imagine that a handful or two wouldn't hurt at all. I read where this was old practice when hay was baled slightly too moist but had not started to mold. Does it help at all? I have read conflicting reports.

My opinion on the issue comes from a fiasco in which a hay supplier (whose hay was baled wet and was molding) bought me about 100lbs of salt and said to douse the hay with salt. I did as I was told, stupid I know, and the next day the hay was soaked with water from the moisture in the air. Actual droplets had formed everywhere on the bales. EVERYTHING in my barn rusted. I wanted to choke him!

Now, here we are again and his hay has molded because he bales it too wet. All the testing equipment in the world won't help if he doesn't use it. I tested his bales and some came out to 36% moisture - which is WAY too high. Just bought myself a moisture tester so I won't get into this situation again.

I can't imagine that putting that much salt on a wet bale of hay will "dry it out". Salt will draw out the moisture from the bale, but not like it's drawing the moisture out of the air. But that much moisture in a bale will really just cause it to mold. Salt isn't going to get into the center of the bale, really. It's not a matter of "if a little is good, more must be better", but toss it to the side as cattle hay and move on. Don't know who to suggest you go to for affordable nice hay around here. We take a tractor trailer out to Western PA and get about 900 bales at a time for us. For whatever reason, the hay our there is much better quality than the stuff here. IT's pricey now, with the fuel prices, but the bales are good and the horses don't waste much at all.
 

Busterduck

Kiss my Ass
Katt said:
I can't imagine that putting that much salt on a wet bale of hay will "dry it out". Salt will draw out the moisture from the bale, but not like it's drawing the moisture out of the air. But that much moisture in a bale will really just cause it to mold. Salt isn't going to get into the center of the bale, really. It's not a matter of "if a little is good, more must be better", but toss it to the side as cattle hay and move on. Don't know who to suggest you go to for affordable nice hay around here. We take a tractor trailer out to Western PA and get about 900 bales at a time for us. For whatever reason, the hay our there is much better quality than the stuff here. IT's pricey now, with the fuel prices, but the bales are good and the horses don't waste much at all.



The salt did draw the mositure out of the air and onto the bales. It was extremely humid then and that's what it did. My jaw just about hit the floor when I saw what it had done. Droplets everywhere on the bales. Soaking wet to the touch. Where the salt dropped in significant quantities on our wood floor, it too attracted moisture and was wet. Really pi$$ed me off. Rusted out my new hay elevator too.

We are looking into getting hay elsewhere but need large quantities. Go through about 2000 bales per year. Any contacts anyone would like to share?
 

HorseLady

Painted Spirit
For that much hay you would be best off going out of the local area. Northern MD, Pa, Northern Va areas seem to have a better combination of weather and larger farms to get a good production of lots of hay. Locally the farms here are touch and go on steady supply - and many of the farms have switched from hay to beans and corn. Folks don't realize all the knowledge that goes into a good bale of hay and the labor involved. Hay farmers know that a cutting of hay could go from prime horse hay to cow hay in a matter of minutes from one shower passing overhead at the wrong time and need to have a outlet for both. We've had offers of using fallow fields for hay but we don't have the know-how, labor, or equipment to do a good job. I know of a friend of ours who would walk out in her 20 acre hay field with a bottle of weed killer and spray for weeds by hand. Lots of work! And people want to know why they can't get $2.00 bales of hay anymore!
 

mygoldnhorse

Cowgirl Up
I formerly had a suppier that had awesome orchard grass/alphfa square bales that he would get from PA. He brought me the 1st cutting around May 18th and the bales were heavy. I was concerned that they were soooo heavy because they were moist. He brought salt and sprinkled some between the layers...saying oh don't worry it will be just fine. Within 3 days the bales were warm and getting real funky smelling. I called him and had him come pick up 500 bales. Afterwards I talked to a local farmer that has been selling hay in Southern MD forever and he told me to always remember this........
To make sure that you don't have this happen DO NOT buy hay cut prior to Memorial Day. He did say that some years you may luck out and it will be okay....but as a rule of thumb if you stick with after Memorial Day you are sure 99.9% of the time. I have stuck with that and have not had any problems since.
 

Busterduck

Kiss my Ass
:lmao: :flowers: :faint:
mygoldnhorse said:
I formerly had a suppier that had awesome orchard grass/alphfa square bales that he would get from PA. He brought me the 1st cutting around May 18th and the bales were heavy. I was concerned that they were soooo heavy because they were moist. He brought salt and sprinkled some between the layers...saying oh don't worry it will be just fine. Within 3 days the bales were warm and getting real funky smelling. I called him and had him come pick up 500 bales. Afterwards I talked to a local farmer that has been selling hay in Southern MD forever and he told me to always remember this........
To make sure that you don't have this happen DO NOT buy hay cut prior to Memorial Day. He did say that some years you may luck out and it will be okay....but as a rule of thumb if you stick with after Memorial Day you are sure 99.9% of the time. I have stuck with that and have not had any problems since.


That is very true! Cutting before Memorial day, is a great risk. My other supplier will not cut before then.

Don't you just hate having to get all of that hay out of the barn. :faint:


Too much work. The bales he brought were VERY heavy and I wish I had had my tester then. NEVER AGAIN! I am equipped now. Will be testing everything. Anyone need their hay tested just let me know. Just love to play with my new toy. :flowers: :lmao: :flowers:
 
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