Homemade 50/50 penetrating oil?

[glhs837]

FIFTH AVENUE

So, facing the removal of an engine in a Samurai that has been in place since 1987, I picked up a squirt bottle of Liquid Wrench Heavy Duty Penetrating Oil, since the PB Blaster failed to budge a few fasteners on the bad one we just yanked out. While looking up the LW stuff, I came across the above listed stuff.


Any of you guys have personal experience mixing and using this stuff? Got what I need, some old Type F and some acetone laying around. I'm cognizant of the appropriate precautions for each chemical separately.

 

[Gilligan]

Somebody sent me a similar article a few years ago and I've been using that ATF/acetone mix ever since. It is indeed an amazingly effective combination.

The only problem with it is that it has to be stored in a completely sealed container or the acetone quickly disappears.

 

[Ken King]

I've used it with rather good success, though I never tracked various types of penetrating oils with a torque wrench like those guys back in 2007. It works even better when you add a touch of diesel fuel to the mix.

 

[glhs837]

Somebody sent me a similar article a few years ago and I've been using that ATF/acetone mix ever since. It is indeed an amazingly effective combination.

The only problem with it is that it has to be stored in a completely sealed container or the acetone quickly disappears.

I was hoping you would chime in, Gilligan, I figured if anyone had the skinny on it you would. I figure I'll mix up a small batch in a baby food jar or similar. Use small acid brushes to apply it. The Samurai we just yanked the engine on, one exhaust flange bolt came out fairly easy, but the other one just wouldnt give, ended up cutting it. Close quarters for a 4 inch wheel. Hopefully the donor trucks bolts will give better either with the Liquid Wrench stuff or the homebrew.

The LW stuff has an interesting list of ingredients....

Napthenic Oil
Naphtha, Paraffinic Oil
Corrosion Inhibitor
Carbon Dioxide
Graphite

 

[GURPS]

i'll have to mix some up

I swear by PB Blaster

 

[Gilligan]

i'll have to mix some up

I swear by PB Blaster

I keep a can around for when I need to "shoot a spray" on something hard to get at. With the straw in the spray nozzle, you can reach out 3 or 4 feet.

I'm also a big fan of Kano products, including Kroil. But that acetone/ATF trick is really something.

I'll probably still keep using Coca Cola to unstick stuck engines though.

 

[Vince]

Wish I would have had some of that stuff around last week when I was trying to pull the starter out of the car. One frozen bolt. Had to soak it in liquid wrench for a few days and then work at it.

 

[struggler44]

I swear by Kroil, the best for loosening frozen/rusted parts that I've tried. I can't remember anything that it hasn't made workable. From rusted bolts/studs to stuck outboard pistons, it's the shizzit.

 

[Inkd]

I love the kroil too but I may try that other stuff.

I just got an email from my landlord that my boat trailer axle snapped. I guess I know what I will be doing for part of my R/R.

In all actuality I'll probably just cut all the old hardware off.

 

[Inkd]

I wonder if this Ed's Red bore cleaner would work?

Ed's Red' Bore Cleaner

 

[Gilligan]

I
In all actuality I'll probably just cut all the old hardware off.

That. I repair a lot of boat trailers (my own and for friends) and by the time they've deteriorated to the point where axles, springs and hardware are breaking, its time to get out the gas axe and just cut it all loose. The replacement parts are just too cheap these days to worry about saving the original junk.

 

[Chris0nllyn]

Aerokroll.

It's awesome. Mainly used in the HVAC worlds for stuck fans, pulleys, and such, but it works much better than PB Blaster.

AeroKroll 16.5 oz Aerosol

 

[Inkd]

That. I repair a lot of boat trailers (my own and for friends) and by the time they've deteriorated to the point where axles, springs and hardware are breaking, its time to get out the gas axe and just cut it all loose. The replacement parts are just too cheap these days to worry about saving the original junk.

Should I go to a marine store for a replacement axle or can a tractor supply one work okay?

If possible I would like to get one with hubs, wheels, bearings and everything already put together so all I have to do is attach it to the trailer frame.

Is that feasible? I'll be doing this on my R/R in January and want to make it as quick and easy as I can.

 

[GWguy]

Should I go to a marine store for a replacement axle or can a tractor supply one work okay?

If possible I would like to get one with hubs, wheels, bearings and everything already put together so all I have to do is attach it to the trailer frame.

Is that feasible? I'll be doing this on my R/R in January and want to make it as quick and easy as I can.

I don't think there's much difference between an axle from Tractor Supply and a marine supply, other than price. If Tractor Supply doesn't have a fully assembled axle (and I thought I saw a few on the floor), I seem to remember Northern Tools did.

 

[Gilligan]

I deal almost exclusively with these guys for everything trailer...and I go with the more expensive galvanized stuff if its one that is regularly dunked in the salt water.

Trailer Parts Superstore - Discount Trailer Part Store

 

[glhs837]

Well, the Liquid Wrench stuff has worked out so far, no fasteners have twisted apart on me (1980s Japanese fasteners like 10mm bolts just cant take a lot of toruqe) except those stupid wire style hose clamps. those things, just give up, they jut twist up, so I cut-em off.

 

[Inkd]

I deal almost exclusively with these guys for everything trailer...and I go with the more expensive galvanized stuff if its one that is regularly dunked in the salt water.

Trailer Parts Superstore - Discount Trailer Part Store

Cool, thank you!

I'm trying to get everything purchased and ready to go so when I get home I can just get to it. I don't want to waste time shopping or ordering and waiting.