In Hot Water (Heater Help Please!)

flyingdog

flyingdog

Member
We have a 52gallon hot water heater. There are two of us. The hot water seems to 'shut off' about 10 minutes after being used. We turned up the temp, which makes is friggin' hotter than you can stand getting in, but still turns to luke warm after 10 min. I know that we are not out of hot water at that point. Is there some setting we are missing that stops allowing hot water? It recovers well, and like I said, is very hot, but then just seems to not produce any longer. Thanks in advance.
 
GWguy

GWguy

*
Most tanks use 2 coils, one may be not working. With only one coil, the tank can't keep up with the demand. Just one possibility...
 
flyingdog

flyingdog

Member
dn0121 said:
A little more info would be helpful such as model number and type. Also check out forum.doityourself.com I was able to fix my own with help from them. Funny thing was my neighbor had the exact same problem at the same time and paid $200 to get it fixed.

Water Heaters - DoItYourself.com Community Forums
Click to expand...

Does sound like it could be what pp said. Here is the model State: CD5 52 ZORT961. Can't seem to locate it on their website. Thanks for any further insight.
 
Pete

Pete

Repete
flyingdog said:
We have a 52gallon hot water heater. There are two of us. The hot water seems to 'shut off' about 10 minutes after being used. We turned up the temp, which makes is friggin' hotter than you can stand getting in, but still turns to luke warm after 10 min. I know that we are not out of hot water at that point. Is there some setting we are missing that stops allowing hot water? It recovers well, and like I said, is very hot, but then just seems to not produce any longer. Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

I would say that your bottom element is burnt out. Sediment builds up in the bottom of the tank and the second it touches the bottom element it burns it out. It will take a screw driver, a big adjustable wrench, a hose and about $10 to fix it.

Turn off the breaker then shut off the water using the valves at the top of the water heater, in and out. Locate the bottom access panel (there should be 2) Take out the screw and open it up. you should see a big nut with wires attached.

Attach a hose to the valve on very the bottom of the water heater. Run the hose outside then open the valve and drain the tank. You may have to open the over pressure valve on the top or side near the top. (Looks like a faucet with a lever. Once empty take the wires off the element then use the big wrench or channel locks and remove the element (big nut) by turning it counter clockwise. It will look like a probe or a loop and it will probably have a big chunk melted out of it.

Take it to True Value and ask the guy to help you find a replacement of the same wattage, resistance.

Take the new one home and screw it into the hole. Reconnect the wires. Close the valve at the bottom and remove the hose. Turn the valves back on allowing it to fill with water. You may have to allow air to escape by pulling/pushing on the over pressure valve on the top or on the side near the top. It will hiss as air escapes. Keep allowing air to escape as it fills until water shoots out.

Then turn on the breaker. In the area where you screwed the new element you will probably see a little box with a button. Be sure that button it pressed in, it is a circuit breaker than probably tripped when the element burnt itself. Wait about an hour and you will have hot water that will not fade after 10 minutes. Put the access plate back on, put your tools away then come back and tell me I am a demi god and I saved you a $200 plumbers bill.
 
flyingdog

flyingdog

Member
Pete said:
I would say that your bottom element is burnt out. Sediment builds up in the bottom of the tank and the second it touches the bottom element it burns it out. It will take a screw driver, a big adjustable wrench, a hose and about $10 to fix it.

Turn off the breaker then shut off the water using the valves at the top of the water heater, in and out. Locate the bottom access panel (there should be 2) Take out the screw and open it up. you should see a big nut with wires attached.

Attach a hose to the valve on very the bottom of the water heater. Run the hose outside then open the valve and drain the tank. You may have to open the over pressure valve on the top or side near the top. (Looks like a faucet with a lever. Once empty take the wires off the element then use the big wrench or channel locks and remove the element (big nut) by turning it counter clockwise. It will look like a probe or a loop and it will probably have a big chunk melted out of it.

Take it to True Value and ask the guy to help you find a replacement of the same wattage, resistance.

Take the new one home and screw it into the hole. Reconnect the wires. Close the valve at the bottom and remove the hose. Turn the valves back on allowing it to fill with water. You may have to allow air to escape by pulling/pushing on the over pressure valve on the top or on the side near the top. It will hiss as air escapes. Keep allowing air to escape as it fills until water shoots out.

Then turn on the breaker. In the area where you screwed the new element you will probably see a little box with a button. Be sure that button it pressed in, it is a circuit breaker than probably tripped when the element burnt itself. Wait about an hour and you will have hot water that will not fade after 10 minutes. Put the access plate back on, put your tools away then come back and tell me I am a demi god and I saved you a $200 plumbers bill.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice...I'll keep you posted!!
 
dn0121

dn0121

New Member
well if it was gas it could be the flame rod needed to be adjusted. also just as simple. but being elec I think pete was spot on!
 
onebdzee

onebdzee

off the shelf
Pete said:
I would say that your bottom element is burnt out. Sediment builds up in the bottom of the tank and the second it touches the bottom element it burns it out. It will take a screw driver, a big adjustable wrench, a hose and about $10 to fix it.

Turn off the breaker then shut off the water using the valves at the top of the water heater, in and out. Locate the bottom access panel (there should be 2) Take out the screw and open it up. you should see a big nut with wires attached.

Attach a hose to the valve on very the bottom of the water heater. Run the hose outside then open the valve and drain the tank. You may have to open the over pressure valve on the top or side near the top. (Looks like a faucet with a lever. Once empty take the wires off the element then use the big wrench or channel locks and remove the element (big nut) by turning it counter clockwise. It will look like a probe or a loop and it will probably have a big chunk melted out of it.

Take it to True Value and ask the guy to help you find a replacement of the same wattage, resistance.

Take the new one home and screw it into the hole. Reconnect the wires. Close the valve at the bottom and remove the hose. Turn the valves back on allowing it to fill with water. You may have to allow air to escape by pulling/pushing on the over pressure valve on the top or on the side near the top. It will hiss as air escapes. Keep allowing air to escape as it fills until water shoots out.

Then turn on the breaker. In the area where you screwed the new element you will probably see a little box with a button. Be sure that button it pressed in, it is a circuit breaker than probably tripped when the element burnt itself. Wait about an hour and you will have hot water that will not fade after 10 minutes. Put the access plate back on, put your tools away then come back and tell me I am a demi god and I saved you a $200 plumbers bill.
Click to expand...

I don't know when the last time mine was flushed out....can you come over and show me how to do all this....I will supply the tools and the beverage/food of your choice
 
bcp

bcp

In My Opinion
onebdzee said:
I don't know when the last time mine was flushed out....can you come over and show me how to do all this....I will supply the tools and the beverage/food of your choice
Click to expand...
SO, someone gets to flush you out and you feed them too?
I dont understand the part where you supply the tools though, is this some reference to battery powered devices?
 
Jeff

Jeff

Stop Staring!!!!!
GWguy said:
Most tanks use 2 coils, one may be not working. With only one coil, the tank can't keep up with the demand. Just one possibility...
Click to expand...

Yep, Sometimes the Coils just burns out. Then also sometimes minerals (scale) can build up on the coil rendering it all but useless.

Kill power to it and pull the elements out one by one and you can check them like that. There should be only 2

Sometimes another thing that can mess them up is this scale continously flakes off over time and can actually bury the lower element.
 
beerlover

beerlover

New Member
While you have the element out, it's a good idea to take a shop vac with a piece of tubing taped to the end and stick it in the hole and vacuum out as much sediment as you can get. That will buy you some more time before the next replacement.
 
C

chevy

New Member
Pete said:
I would say that your bottom element is burnt out. Sediment builds up in the bottom of the tank and the second it touches the bottom element it burns it out. It will take a screw driver, a big adjustable wrench, a hose and about $10 to fix it.

Turn off the breaker then shut off the water using the valves at the top of the water heater, in and out. Locate the bottom access panel (there should be 2) Take out the screw and open it up. you should see a big nut with wires attached.

Attach a hose to the valve on very the bottom of the water heater. Run the hose outside then open the valve and drain the tank. You may have to open the over pressure valve on the top or side near the top. (Looks like a faucet with a lever. Once empty take the wires off the element then use the big wrench or channel locks and remove the element (big nut) by turning it counter clockwise. It will look like a probe or a loop and it will probably have a big chunk melted out of it.

Take it to True Value and ask the guy to help you find a replacement of the same wattage, resistance.

Take the new one home and screw it into the hole. Reconnect the wires. Close the valve at the bottom and remove the hose. Turn the valves back on allowing it to fill with water. You may have to allow air to escape by pulling/pushing on the over pressure valve on the top or on the side near the top. It will hiss as air escapes. Keep allowing air to escape as it fills until water shoots out.

Then turn on the breaker. In the area where you screwed the new element you will probably see a little box with a button. Be sure that button it pressed in, it is a circuit breaker than probably tripped when the element burnt itself. Wait about an hour and you will have hot water that will not fade after 10 minutes. Put the access plate back on, put your tools away then come back and tell me I am a demi god and I saved you a $200 plumbers bill.
Click to expand...


Flyingdog while you have the old element out you also need to remove the scale from the bottom of the tank. If you dont and the new element touches it you will have the same element burnout problem. A shop vac with a small attachment works well for this. Look inside the tank with a flashlight after you clean to make sure there isnt any scale buildup that could possibly touch your new element.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top