I do not trust the Mr Tire behind BJ's. I think they over charge for their services. But what's worse is several people I know had their car returned in worse condition than when it went into the shop. I believe the problem has past the point of being ignored. What is the formal process for reporting business malpractice?
Mr. Tire in California
- Thread starter KrisYohn
- Start date
black dog
Free America
DEEKAYPEE8569
Well-Known Member
Although you might be spitting in the ocean, you might try the BBB.....or go to Tires Plus next time. If you went in there with anything other than a tire issue, that's where your problem started. I would; and have; gone to Tires Plus to get tires patched. They even fixed a lawn mower tire I took in.....didn't charge me for it either.
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Clem72
Well-Known Member
Although you might be spitting in the ocean, you might try the BBB.....or go to Tires Plus next time. If you went in there with anything other than a tire issue, that's where your problem started. I would; and have; gone to Tires Plus to get tires patched. They even fixed a lawn mower tire I took in.....didn't charge me for it either.
Of course then there Precision, where I went for a cheap oil change special. After 20 minutes they called me up claiming I needed new tires and that my CV boots were leaking. When I said I would go home and check myself, they told me they legally couldn't let me leave on my tires. So I asked them for their thread gauge, went to check, and lo and behold I had more than 1/8th an inch on every tire. Then I wiped off the area around the boot and found no cracks, tears, or real evidence of a leak around the underbody or tire. Seems most likely to me they wiped some grease on it so they could "show" me the leak. Either way, I never went back. Now I do oil changes at the dealership until warranty is up, then do it myself.
This is why I hate auto repair places and when I get one I can trust I hang onto it for dear life.
I get ALL my oil changes at Jiffy Lube, and ALL my repair stuff is done by Toyota. I know pretty close to zero about cars and their workings, and it would be easy for some d-bag to try and scam me. What *should* happen is that reputable auto repair places out their nefarious brethren - this sort of scamming makes them all look bad and you'd think they'd want to clean up their industry reputation.
Doctors, same thing. Hate them. Those aholes all stick together, too, and won't rat out their clearly incompetent colleagues, even when they kill their patients.
I get ALL my oil changes at Jiffy Lube, and ALL my repair stuff is done by Toyota. I know pretty close to zero about cars and their workings, and it would be easy for some d-bag to try and scam me. What *should* happen is that reputable auto repair places out their nefarious brethren - this sort of scamming makes them all look bad and you'd think they'd want to clean up their industry reputation.
Doctors, same thing. Hate them. Those aholes all stick together, too, and won't rat out their clearly incompetent colleagues, even when they kill their patients.
I have used Tires Pluse by BJ's for a quite a few years and do not have a problem with anything they have done for me. Scott Rangone (MGR) and I see eye to eye on all repairs, for my three vehicles. Sure a couple were a high, but before letting them even start..I called around almost everyone in the county, and got ball park figures for any repair. Example of this was: I needed the distrib. packs replaced on my F150, and got all sorts of prices starting @ Ford for over $1,000.00 for job. I called everyone I could, even stopped in a couple of places. I ended up going to AGAPE on Hollywood Airport Road and got the best deal and best Maintenance. I am very pleased with them. So it pays to check around...I got some tires for a widow's truck at Curtis Tire, as they beat EVERYONE on the prices. But Tires Plus beat everyone on tires for my Mercury. Just check around, saves money. My take! I consider myself a fairly good "shade tree mechanic" but medical reasons prevent me from doing most of my own vehicle work.
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glhs837
Power with Control
$1000 for coil packs? Is this that same motor with the "special" spark plugs that require the Hand of God to remove without requiring the $1000 dollar tool to move the broken pieces and retap the threads for the new ones?
Grumpy
Well-Known Member
You talking about the Triton 3 valve engines?? Yeah, at least 3 or 4 plugs break when trying to change them, but a $40 tool from Lisle worked every time for me. I had a 4.6 engine and knew of the problem before I tried to change the plugs; bought it beforehand and broke 3, used the tool to remove and was on my way inside of 30 minutes. Took care of a couple friends with the same problem without an issue in removing the broken plugs. I am far from a mechanic but sometimes I feel some of these horror stories are cooked up by mechanics.
DEEKAYPEE8569
Well-Known Member
Have you ever ventured into Laser Lube; across from Cheseldine's car wash? Years ago I went in there for a simple oil change. They charged $19-$20-something for an oil change at the time. I always took my own oil and filter; just change it. Right? One time, they told me I needed a new air filter, and a radiator fush/fill and a trans. fluid change......just a couple $100. I said, 'Uuummm, no thanks; and put everything back together please.' They did, and that was the last time I went there for an oil change and started going to Tires Plus.
glhs837
Power with Control
Well, any motor that breaks off three plugs has issues, even with a special tool, that's some BS. And if you turn this job over to a pro, and he quotes you as if none break, and they all do, you are screwed. So I see both sides. By now, the pros are all aware of it and can pretty much get it done without issues, but no reason not to quote high.
Grumpy
Well-Known Member
I always thought or heard that it was the plug design, some called it a 2-part plug. Never knew of anyone having an issue once they replaced the original plugs with a different manufacturer's plug.
DEEKAYPEE8569
Well-Known Member
Broken plugs usually comes from making them "grunt" when you put them in. I was taught, 'just snug' is sufficient for plug installs; 'just snug' being, say, 1/8 to 1/4 turn +- once the washer seats in the hole. No need to "lean on" a plug to tighten it.
DEEKAYPEE8569
Well-Known Member
The term '2-part plug' might refer to the terminal nut, which can be left on, or removed, depending on what type of spark plug wire boot is used.
Some applications require the terminal nut; some don't.
glhs837
Power with Control
From what I know it was the factory plugs, and past that, even replacements of the factory design would do this. And yes, snug is right. Were I to put a torque value onit, I would guess maybe 15-20 foot lbs tops.
glhs837
Power with Control
DEEKAYPEE8569
Well-Known Member
Less torque than it takes to get up from Thanksgiving dinner. Yeah, I get it. I can torque wheel lugs without a torque wrench, but I use one to check anyway......but we're talkin' 'bout plugs. I would think those would be torqued in inch lbs. but, that involves me.....thinking, so.....
DEEKAYPEE8569
Well-Known Member
:timtaylorgruntofrealization: So, this is like those Diamond Fire plugs?? Still.....they shouldn't have to be but SO tight.
This is looking more and more like it needs to be moved to "The Ride."
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glhs837
Power with Control
http://www.autolite.com/media/11853/torquespecs.pdf
As to the Ford plugs, that particular problem has nothing to do with torque of the threaded section, but that lower piece, which most plugs do not have, bonding with the well it's in. Like a brake rotor boding with the hub.
Grumpy
Well-Known Member
Exactly
DEEKAYPEE8569
Well-Known Member
So, it bonds to the well because it's made of a different metal than the well. Well.....hmmm.....and a BFH won't work, I guess.