Thank you.I have been rebooting every couple of days, just got the upgrade today, tested at 157 down / 17 up
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It really depends with your home's configuration, construction, position of router and so many other variables. If you are relatively happy with what you have, the simplest upgrade would be a drop in replacement for your existing equipment. You didn't mention what model adapters you are using now (or how many?), but you may just want to try to upgrade your existing powerline infrastructure. The latest products appear to be able to hit on or about 150: http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/tools/charts/powerline/viewWhat, do you think would be the best way to exploit the increase? A better wi-fi - say, 802.11ac - or, well, what I am using right now - powerline ethernet.
Short from running coax all over, I have no idea how to get the full speed.
It really depends with your home's configuration, construction, position of router and so many other variables. If you are relatively happy with what you have, the simplest upgrade would be a drop in replacement for your existing equipment. You didn't mention what model adapters you are using now (or how many?), but you may just want to try to upgrade your existing powerline infrastructure. The latest products appear to be able to hit on or about 150: http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/tools/charts/powerline/view
Powerline is good for a reliable lower speed network, but short of wiring the house with cat-6 I would suggest a mesh router approach. The new one from google appears to be a good solution.
https://store.google.com/product/google_wifi
Isn't this just a regular router with extenders? How do you avoid losses the further away you get?
There are several mesh wifi methods of extending your network. From the little I have read, the google wifi seems to perform the worst of the bunch. The numbers looks like it's just a repeater with no dedicated back haul. There are several other options worth exploring. Here is a recent review with powerline and the orbi mesh devices: http://www.anandtech.com/show/10878...-comparison-of-ghn-homeplug-av2-and-wifi-mesh
Reviews like this however are usually biased toward total network throughput and assume that the wifi will propogate well. If you have a bad obstacle wifi wont get through (my grandparents house comes to mind), the powerline units may fare better than the tests in the article.
To answer the original question, mesh vs repeater, mesh is supposed to (though not always does) use a different radio to transmit between routers than what is used for communicating with end user devices. Where a repeater uses the same radio and as such immediately cuts your bandwidth in half as you are basically now using half-duplex communications.
I had only read one or two quick reviews of the google unit which were positive, but if there are better mesh routers in that price range then they would obviously be a better choice.
What I can attest to is having used multiple generations of Powerline and even under ideal conditions on the same breaker with nothing else attached I could never get better than 80Mbit. Between floors the best I ever got for a sustained connection was 35mbit (testing UDP streaming with IPERF, not just believing the identified connection rate). But it is stable.
Between floors the best I ever got for a sustained connection was 35mbit (testing UDP streaming with IPERF, not just believing the identified connection rate). But it is stable.
That works just fine for me. I was doing a lot of switching and testing last night when I got more buffering problems, and ultimately - it was clear that the culprit was the powerline, and not a cable or router.
It was only putting out about 1 or 2 mbits. I finally decided to start putting the whole thing on a different circuit, and voila! 35 mbits. So it was the circuit itself, for some reason.
If that same unit tests fast on a different circuit, look for sources of interference. Unlplug everything you can, then plug back in until the speed drops. In my case, laptop power supplies were the biggest culprit, followed by fans. Just moving them to a different outlet on the same circuit was enough in some cases.