Push Mower

SamSpade

Well-Known Member
PREMO Member
Ok, haven't had to use them much in many years, and before moving to SMC years ago, I actually used an electric.

I didn't know you had to "winterize" push mowers at the end of the season.

So - two questions.

1. Does winterize JUST mean, drain out the gas?
2. If you fail to do this in the fall, can you just drain it out and refill it with new gas?

Tired of pulling that cord.
 

Homer J

Power Chord
Ok, haven't had to use them much in many years, and before moving to SMC years ago, I actually used an electric.

I didn't know you had to "winterize" push mowers at the end of the season.

So - two questions.

1. Does winterize JUST mean, drain out the gas?
2. If you fail to do this in the fall, can you just drain it out and refill it with new gas?

Tired of pulling that cord.
You don't have to drain it if you put in some fuel stabilizer. Sta-bil does the trick. Just make sure you run the engine for a few minutes after you put it in the gas tank. That will ensure it circulates through the carb too.
 

SamSpade

Well-Known Member
PREMO Member
You don't have to drain it if you put in some fuel stabilizer. Sta-bil does the trick. Just make sure you run the engine for a few minutes after you put it in the gas tank. That will ensure it circulates through the carb too.
Will it help if I have already drained it and refilled the tank? I did that Sunday, still couldn't start it (because I assume something is fouling the engine itself). Have you done that? Will it work?

If it does, thank you in advance. I've never heard of this stuff, but I will get it.
 

HemiHauler

Well-Known Member
The gasoline with ethanol is never good for small engines with carburetors. If you’re willing to take it apart, you might notice pitting in the carb. You should be able to service it - or have someone service it. The prevention is to not use gasoline with that crap in it.
 

Sneakers

Just sneakin' around....
PREMO Member
Sam, if it's been sitting for any length of time with gas in it and no fuel stabilizer, you can be pretty sure the carb is fouled and needs to be pulled and cleaned before it will run again. Simply draining the old fuel and adding new fuel, even with stabilizer, will not have much luck clearing the carb.
 

SamSpade

Well-Known Member
PREMO Member
The gasoline with ethanol is never good for small engines with carburetors. If you’re willing to take it apart, you might notice pitting in the carb. You should be able to service it - or have someone service it. The prevention is to not use gasoline with that crap in it.

And you know, it finally dawned on me, that was exactly the reason - that nearly all gas sold HAS that crap in it, and you have to prepare a lawn mower or weed eater running on gas for long periods of inactivity. Something I absolutely know was never an issue when I was younger.

Of course, when I was younger, this new stuff called "unleaded" gas came along. I can still hear my grandfather telling the attendant "fill 'er up with REGULAR". DOESN'T seem that long ago, because even in "The Blues Brothers", Elwood says their car runs on "regular gas".

Fortunately, Sheetz has a pump that sells no ethanol gas. It's the only place I know that sells zero ethanol.
 

Homer J

Power Chord
Will it help if I have already drained it and refilled the tank? I did that Sunday, still couldn't start it (because I assume something is fouling the engine itself). Have you done that? Will it work?

If it does, thank you in advance. I've never heard of this stuff, but I will get it.
Like Sneaker said, it probably won't help after the damage has been done. You'll need to either take the carb apart and clean it, or you could replace the carb. I did this to my walk behind mower and a generator a few years ago. Found cheap replacements on Amazon.

If you can't get non-ethanol gas, Sta-Bil makes a treatment for that too.


Sta-Bil 360.jpg
 

DaSDGuy

Well-Known Member
l always use Sta-Bil for small engine fuel. I have used the same lawn mower for 8 years and it always starts on first or second pull, even after winter storage. I use synthetic oil so that really never needs to be changed. One thing I always do is turn off the fuel valve while the engine is running and let it keep running until the fuel lines and carb are out of gas.
 

PrchJrkr

Long Haired Country Boy
Ad Free Experience
Patron
Will it help if I have already drained it and refilled the tank? I did that Sunday, still couldn't start it (because I assume something is fouling the engine itself). Have you done that? Will it work?

If it does, thank you in advance. I've never heard of this stuff, but I will get it.
Chances are good that the carburetor is choked up and needs a thorough cleaning. Check you PMer.
 

Sneakers

Just sneakin' around....
PREMO Member
I have a push mower that's been idle for a couple of years, and it's been on my short list to service it. This thread got me motivated, so I pulled it into the garage.

There's a hole chewed thru the top of the tank..... :twitch: Going to see if I can patch it, JB Weld or something. New tank is $35 and I'm not going to invest that much in a mower from 1984.
 

Clem72

Well-Known Member
Ok, haven't had to use them much in many years, and before moving to SMC years ago, I actually used an electric.

I didn't know you had to "winterize" push mowers at the end of the season.

So - two questions.

1. Does winterize JUST mean, drain out the gas?
2. If you fail to do this in the fall, can you just drain it out and refill it with new gas?

Tired of pulling that cord.
Probably not what you are looking for, but wanted to add that I got tired of "winterizing" and then fixing my mowers every year (cleaning carb, changing oil, whatever). Bought a battery powered one 5 or so years ago (Lowes 80v Kobalt) and it's been great. I actually abuse it a great deal (bush whacking and long wet grass) and never had an issue. 1 battery does the front yard with capacity leftover but I have 3 batteries from the blower and chainsaw that I also purchased, and they charge fast enough that I can basically run non-stop with whatever combination of tool use I need. I mow about 1/2 acre in total and blow leaves/debris away from the house and driveway.
 

PeoplesElbow

Well-Known Member
I'm someone who doesn't believe in winterizing small lawn engines and never had a problem. I have a 18 year old push mower with wobbly wheels and a rusted out deck that will not blow up no matter what I do to it. 😟
 

SamSpade

Well-Known Member
PREMO Member
Probably not what you are looking for, but wanted to add that I got tired of "winterizing" and then fixing my mowers every year (cleaning carb, changing oil, whatever). Bought a battery powered one 5 or so years ago (Lowes 80v Kobalt) and it's been great. I actually abuse it a great deal (bush whacking and long wet grass) and never had an issue. 1 battery does the front yard with capacity leftover but I have 3 batteries from the blower and chainsaw that I also purchased, and they charge fast enough that I can basically run non-stop with whatever combination of tool use I need. I mow about 1/2 acre in total and blow leaves/debris away from the house and driveway.
I may check into that. We just use the push mowers for trimming, so they don't get used a lot. Last time I tried to mow the lawn with a push mower, one of my neighbors rushed out to do my lawn FOR me. I'm old, overweight and look pretty miserable pushing a mower in hot weather.

That, and I may just get used to the idea of keeping zero ethanol stuff around, exclusively.
 

Ken King

A little rusty but not crusty
PREMO Member
I'm someone who doesn't believe in winterizing small lawn engines and never had a problem. I have a 18 year old push mower with wobbly wheels and a rusted out deck that will not blow up no matter what I do to it. 😟
I don't winterize either. Mine is about 10 years old, wheels tight, deck in great shape. The only thing I do is when priming the carb, instead of pushing the bubble 3 times I do about 8 until I can tell it has fuel and then one pull it starts right up. Only use it for around trees and places I can't get the rider to.
 

Bonehead

Well-Known Member
PB blaster snall engine repair may work for freeing up your gummed up carb. Empty the fuel first douse the tank with 1 30 second spray and let it sit for 5 minutes, then try to start it. It has revived some of my neglected engines pretty well.
 

spr1975wshs

Mostly settled in...
Ad Free Experience
Patron
Mine wouldn't start, so I poured a few ounces of Mechanic in a Bottle, unhooked the sparkplug, gave the rope a few pulls, let it rest 10 minutes, rehooked...started on the 2nd pull.

I do use Sta-Bil in my gas cans.
 

PrchJrkr

Long Haired Country Boy
Ad Free Experience
Patron
This is one I cleaned yesterday. Nothing that I know of that dissolves rust and leaves the steel, aluminum, and rubber parts intact. This loose rust clogs the emulsion tube and will continue to until it's removed. Yay ethanol!

hondacarb.jpg
 
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