Training group Information - #1

TurboK9

New Member
OK...

Looks like a few people are interested. :)

Great!

Now... before I go any further, and because I myself do not like suprises and want everyone who wants to do this to understand what to expect, let me explain a little about what sort of training leader I will be and what you can expect from me, as well as lay down what I will be expecting from the group. Let’s see how many people loose interest before we even start 

1) SAFETY - Safety is, of course, my primary concern... for the dogs and people, NOT for myself. I will require dogs that show what I perceive to be 'issues' be muzzled. I make that decision, it is not debatable. Also, I exclude myself from that list, because eventually I WILL do crazy ass things like make you put your dog in a down, and then stand over the dog and jump up and down. Part of training is getting the dog to screw up so you can teach him what NOT to do, as well as what TO do. Biting my leg is classified as 'screwing up'. :lol:

2) NO ARGUING - This will be a group affair. As such, there are sure to be disagreements between people, dogs, or people and dogs. Arguing amongst each other will not be tolerated. If necessary, involved parties may approach for mediation by me. Hopefully that will never be necessary. However, I am a realist and am more than willing to make you either do pushups or go home for the day.

3) NO JUDGING - Remember we are doing this so everyone can learn, and not just from me. Everyone can learn from everyone. I accept all training methods and tools unless blatantly abusive. Clickers, prong collars, choke collars, ecollars, flat collars, harnesses, maybe eventually even heeling poles and agitation whips may be used by various people for various reasons. Those who have preconceived notions or otherwise find distasteful any training tool, I urge you to either force an open mind, or a closed mouth. The only exception is if you believe a dog is being caused pain, you are welcome to approach me and I will handle it. I will not have a dog being abused intentionally on my field, often this is not a matter for anger but rather for education. I will fix it.

4) RAISED VOICE DENOTES URGENCY - If I ever tell a handler "Correct that dog NOW" or "Put your dog UP!" please do so without question. This is because my ears or eyeballs detected a dangerous or potentially dangerous behavior or situation. This could be anything from actual aggression, to a dog overheating. It is imperative that if I SOUND agitated you respond as though we are about to have a big problem, because that is very likely the case if you DON'T respond quickly and without question. Ask me about it and argue with me AFTER the incident is resolved, please.

5) ALL METHODOLOGIES ARE WELCOME - I am a theorist, not a technician. In other words, if a dog were a car I could do a lot more than change oil and inflate tires. I could diagnose a bad crank sensor or fuel pump relay, you name it. This is what I am striving to teach, that there are more ways to train a dog than what you see on TV or have read in Barnes and Noble while sucking on a Latte. Again, open your minds. YOUR preferred way will be used for YOUR dog as long as it is working. As long as it is not a safety issue, we can continue to do so for as long as any individual wishes, unless the situation is one of safety and demands either immediate resolution or removal from the field.

6) DOGS FIGHT – They do. It can happen suddenly and without warning. Usually, despite the fact that it looks and sounds horrible, any damage is typically superficial. If a fight occurs, everyone is to remain calm, and each handler must follow directions. Do not attempt to separate the dogs if one is being bitten by striking, kicking, or prying at the mouth of the aggressor. You could be bitten or cause the dog to bite harder. Stay calm and do not freak out. You could cause the dog(s) to fight/bite harder. Please be a robot and do exactly as instructed and we will separate the dogs while minimizing injury potential.

7) HANDLER RESPONSIBILITY – Everyone is responsible for their own dog and their actions. If an incident occurs between two dogs and veterinary care is required, each party should agree to pay ½ of the total cost of care. The exception being if one of the involved parties did something incredibly stupid, such as putting Fluffy in Killer’s crate by accident while Killer was taking a nap, or in the event that someone purposely instigated an incident. The latter will also incur additional… penalties. I hope I do not need to explain.

Hopefully everyone is starting to get the gist. I am a hardass about training and control. I am an open minded, kind hearted hardass, but still a hardass. Ideally, everyone will get along. I have no desire for politics, favorites, drama, or rumor mongering. If someone on the forum that you don’t like participates, you leave it behind when you enter my field – or you don’t enter at all. This is not negotiable.

Hopefully everyone understands that though I can come off as a bit of an ogre, my goal in doing this is to bring you and your dog(s) to a higher level of enjoyment for each other. This training will be about developing advanced off leash obedience skills, learning to read your dog, how to react to your dog before it misbehaves, relying less and less on your training tools, and more and more on partnership and mutual trust. I have accomplished much in the years I have been working with dogs. The training you will do will be practical in nature (though it may not appear so at first) and will enable you to do more with your dog without always looking down to see where he is at. This is about building trust and teamwork.

I hope my evil list has not run anyone off, but if so, it is best that we know now and not after we berate each other verbally.
 
Last edited:

ArkRescue

Adopt me please !
It ALL makes sense and I am hopeful that the training is very successful for everyone involved. I happen to have one of those remote controlled training collars (if I can FIND it LOL) although the dog I intended to use it on is now deceased. I am not opposed to e-collars being use at all, as they are not intended to punish .... just alert the dog to a handler command right? Same for many other types of collars and aids. Now if someone shows up to the training with a cattle-prod, I think we should revisit the use of proper aids :whistle:.
 

ICit

Jam out with ur clam out
OK...

Looks like a few people are interested. :)

Great!

Now... before I go any further, and because I myself do not like suprises and want everyone who wants to do this to understand what to expect, let me explain a little about what sort of training leader I will be and what you can expect from me, as well as lay down what I will be expecting from the group. Let’s see how many people loose interest before we even start 

1) SAFETY - Safety is, of course, my primary concern... for the dogs and people, NOT for myself. I will require dogs that show what I perceive to be 'issues' be muzzled. I make that decision, it is not debatable. Also, I exclude myself from that list, because eventually I WILL do crazy ass things like make you put your dog in a down, and then stand over the dog and jump up and down. Part of training is getting the dog to screw up so you can teach him what NOT to do, as well as what TO do. Biting my leg is classified as 'screwing up'. :lol:

2) NO ARGUING - This will be a group affair. As such, there are sure to be disagreements between people, dogs, or people and dogs. Arguing amongst each other will not be tolerated. If necessary, involved parties may approach for mediation by me. Hopefully that will never be necessary. However, I am a realist and am more than willing to make you either do pushups or go home for the day.

3) NO JUDGING - Remember we are doing this so everyone can learn, and not just from me. Everyone can learn from everyone. I accept all training methods and tools unless blatantly abusive. Clickers, prong collars, choke collars, ecollars, flat collars, harnesses, maybe eventually even heeling poles and agitation whips may be used by various people for various reasons. Those who have preconceived notions or otherwise find distasteful any training tool, I urge you to either force an open mind, or a closed mouth. The only exception is if you believe a dog is being caused pain, you are welcome to approach me and I will handle it. I will not have a dog being abused intentionally on my field, often this is not a matter for anger but rather for education. I will fix it.

4) RAISED VOICE DENOTES URGENCY - If I ever tell a handler "Correct that dog NOW" or "Put your dog UP!" please do so without question. This is because my ears or eyeballs detected a dangerous or potentially dangerous behavior or situation. This could be anything from actual aggression, to a dog overheating. It is imperative that if I SOUND agitated you respond as though we are about to have a big problem, because that is very likely the case if you DON'T respond quickly and without question. Ask me about it and argue with me AFTER the incident is resolved, please.

5) ALL METHODOLOGIES ARE WELCOME - I am a theorist, not a technician. In other words, if a dog were a car I could do a lot more than change oil and inflate tires. I could diagnose a bad crank sensor or fuel pump relay, you name it. This is what I am striving to teach, that there are more ways to train a dog than what you see on TV or have read in Barnes and Noble while sucking on a Latte. Again, open your minds. YOUR preferred way will be used for YOUR dog as long as it is working. As long as it is not a safety issue, we can continue to do so for as long as any individual wishes, unless the situation is one of safety and demands either immediate resolution or removal from the field.

6) DOGS FIGHT – They do. It can happen suddenly and without warning. Usually, despite the fact that it looks and sounds horrible, any damage is typically superficial. If a fight occurs, everyone is to remain calm, and each handler must follow directions. Do not attempt to separate the dogs if one is being bitten by striking, kicking, or prying at the mouth of the aggressor. You could be bitten or cause the dog to bite harder. Stay calm and do not freak out. You could cause the dog(s) to fight/bite harder. Please be a robot and do exactly as instructed and we will separate the dogs while minimizing injury potential.

7) HANDLER RESPONSIBILITY – Everyone is responsible for their own dog and their actions. If an incident occurs between two dogs and veterinary care is required, each party should agree to pay ½ of the total cost of care. The exception being if one of the involved parties did something incredibly stupid, such as putting Fluffy in Killer’s crate by accident while Killer was taking a nap, or in the event that someone purposely instigated an incident. The latter will also incur additional… penalties. I hope I do not need to explain.

Hopefully everyone is starting to get the gist. I am a hardass about training and control. I am an open minded, kind hearted hardass, but still a hardass. Ideally, everyone will get along. I have no desire for politics, favorites, drama, or rumor mongering. If someone on the forum that you don’t like participates, you leave it behind when you enter my field – or you don’t enter at all. This is not negotiable.

Hopefully everyone understands that though I can come off as a bit of an ogre, my goal in doing this is to bring you and your dog(s) to a higher level of enjoyment for each other. This training will be about developing advanced off leash obedience skills, learning to read your dog, how to react to your dog before it misbehaves, relying less and less on your training tools, and more and more on partnership and mutual trust. I have accomplished much in the years I have been working with dogs. The training you will do will be practical in nature (though it may not appear so at first) and will enable you to do more with your dog without always looking down to see where he is at. This is about building trust and teamwork.

I hope my evil list has not run anyone off, but if so, it is best that we know now and not after we berate each other verbally.

can we use e-collar on the people :whistle:
 

TurboK9

New Member
It ALL makes sense and I am hopeful that the training is very successful for everyone involved. I happen to have one of those remote controlled training collars (if I can FIND it LOL) although the dog I intended to use it on is now deceased. I am not opposed to e-collars being use at all, as they are not intended to punish .... just alert the dog to a handler command right? Same for many other types of collars and aids. Now if someone shows up to the training with a cattle-prod, I think we should revisit the use of proper aids :whistle:.

Day 1 we will actually spend most of our time going over the basics such as this and other things like SAFETY. I want everyone to know off the get-go, proper use of all training common tools, because they may decide to try something they never considered once they see another person's results. We'll go over everything from treat baiting to prong collars. The world changes a LOT when you start getting into off leash work, because you will start to find yourself unable to treat or correct when/how you are used to when you are 20 yards away. :lol:

I'll be putting up another post soon about what to expect, specifically, on the first few sessions. This will include equipment by skill level, attitude, etc. Stay tuned!!
 

TurboK9

New Member
can we use e-collar on the people :whistle:

I've used mine on myself to get a feel for the various levels :shrug:

I SHOULD put one on you though...

"Apologize!"

"No."

*Bzzt*

"Apologize!"

"NO."

*BZZZT*

"Sorry sorry sorry"

"Ok that's better. Now, kiss my feet."

*bzzzt*
 
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