Who do we like for well service?

glhs837

glhs837

Power with Control
Pretty sure my well pump is cooked from feeding a leak in the line in, was behind drywall in the basement took a week or two for it to make itself known. Fixed that, replaced pressure gauge and control switch. Keeps flipping the breaker. Could be a short out under the week call, I'll test that later but if it is the pump I'll need a pro.
 
Blister

Blister

Active Member
glhs837 said:
Pretty sure my well pump is cooked from feeding a leak in the line in, was behind drywall in the basement took a week or two for it to make itself known. Fixed that, replaced pressure gauge and control switch. Keeps flipping the breaker. Could be a short out under the week call, I'll test that later but if it is the pump I'll need a pro.
Click to expand...

From your previous posts I get the impression that you are tech. savvy, so some poking around with a multi-meter might save you a lot before calling a well company.
Was it tripping the breaker before you changed out the switch?
If it was not tripping before and is tripping instantly check for shorts, grounds in the new wiring or a defective new switch.
If it takes a few seconds at high current draw you probably have bad pump or motor bearing and then it is just time to "pay the man"
 
glhs837

glhs837

Power with Control
Blister, sure was tripping before I did anything, not tripping instantly. Contacts looked a bit worn, it's the original switch from 86, I'm pretty sure. Gauges was too, so at about $50 bucks in parts, including the new riser nipple, figured I couldnt go wrong. Popped the cap out at the well, wiring looks undamaged, connections appear to be fine.
 
glhs837

glhs837

Power with Control
Called Watson and Johnson. Turns out they installed it 30 years ago. Called at 0730, got a person. They said they could be there in an hour, I asked for an hour and a half so I could clear the decks at work, no problem. Showed up on time, asked me a few questions, and proceeded to yank the pump. Tested in, resistance through the motor was high. Installed new pump ($1,050), which I later priced at about $950 online through Grainger, so the parts markup was reasonable. All said and done, was $1300. Super professional, willing to chat and answer questions. For reference, well is 400' deep, water level is 110', pump sits at 150'.

Very pleased with the service.
 
DoWhat

DoWhat

Deplorable
PREMO Member
glhs837 said:
Called Watson and Johnson. Turns out they installed it 30 years ago. Called at 0730, got a person. They said they could be there in an hour, I asked for an hour and a half so I could clear the decks at work, no problem. Showed up on time, asked me a few questions, and proceeded to yank the pump. Tested in, resistance through the motor was high. Installed new pump ($1,050), which I later priced at about $950 online through Grainger, so the parts markup was reasonable. All said and done, was $1300. Super professional, willing to chat and answer questions. For reference, well is 400' deep, water level is 110', pump sits at 150'.

Very pleased with the service.
Click to expand...
:yay::yay:
 
glhs837

glhs837

Power with Control
Was nice to meet a young (late 20s, perhaps) person who really cares about his job. I asked what they have seen of the aquifers, since I see press from time to time. We talked about that, and he was conversant about CAs current water issues as well as local ones. Even to the point of being familiar with NASA data about CAs water situation. Got myself quite an education about how wells work and well pumps.
 
glhs837

glhs837

Power with Control
So, yesterday AM, no pressure. Breaker popped. Reset, nothing. Go to work, wife awaits the nice folks from Watson and Johnson. After further investigation, seems the buried electrical cable from the house to the pump, which had been intermittent, had gone kaput. I know they had tested it the day before, had helped them with that. So, he tells me no way he can get the equipment to excavate to replace the wire before next Friday, rigs me a field expedient of a straight wire from the inside junction box to the well. All has been well ;) for over 24 hours now. So now to get a trench dug and a new wire installed. Was initially thinking I had to go down and remove the old wire, which I assume is four feet down like the water line. Called by guy PJ Bean, who did a great job on the CR6 for the driveway and leveling a 12x22 spot for the aboveground pool. He's coming out tonight, but he mentioned that there was really no reason to go that deep.

Hmmm, think he has a point. If I run in conduit, I cant see a reason to go deeper than 18 inches, which I can do myself with a rental trencher, after Miss Utility does her thing, or course. just 10AWG two conductor UF cable. I know legally I don't need the conduit with UF but for a 25-30 foot run, why not? Of course, PJ might be a better deal than a rental machine, when I figure in how much effort I need to go to.
 
Ken King

Ken King

A little rusty but not crusty
PREMO Member
glhs837 said:
So, yesterday AM, no pressure. Breaker popped. Reset, nothing. Go to work, wife awaits the nice folks from Watson and Johnson. After further investigation, seems the buried electrical cable from the house to the pump, which had been intermittent, had gone kaput. I know they had tested it the day before, had helped them with that. So, he tells me no way he can get the equipment to excavate to replace the wire before next Friday, rigs me a field expedient of a straight wire from the inside junction box to the well. All has been well ;) for over 24 hours now. So now to get a trench dug and a new wire installed. Was initially thinking I had to go down and remove the old wire, which I assume is four feet down like the water line. Called by guy PJ Bean, who did a great job on the CR6 for the driveway and leveling a 12x22 spot for the aboveground pool. He's coming out tonight, but he mentioned that there was really no reason to go that deep.

Hmmm, think he has a point. If I run in conduit, I cant see a reason to go deeper than 18 inches, which I can do myself with a rental trencher, after Miss Utility does her thing, or course. just 10AWG two conductor UF cable. I know legally I don't need the conduit with UF but for a 25-30 foot run, why not? Of course, PJ might be a better deal than a rental machine, when I figure in how much effort I need to go to.
Click to expand...

With UF NEC says 24", in PVC conduit you need at least 18" depth to avoid regular digging damage.
 
glhs837

glhs837

Power with Control
Ken King said:
With UF NEC says 24", in PVC conduit you need at least 18" depth to avoid regular digging damage.
Click to expand...

Sure you are not confusing commercial requirement with residential? Second to last entry on this chart. Even says I can do direct burial, but I think conduit is a good belt and suspenders sort of deal, for not a lot of money. Think it will cost under $25 for all the conduit I need. It is 230 volts, and does pass under a flower bed. I suspect the reason for the original cables failure could be traced to it being under the driveway and direct burial. Conduit seems like cheap insurance.

http://www.xwalk.com/images/Table_300.5-Min_Cover_Reqts.pdf
 
Ken King

Ken King

A little rusty but not crusty
PREMO Member
glhs837 said:
Sure you are not confusing commercial requirement with residential? Second to last entry on this chart. Even says I can do direct burial, but I think conduit is a good belt and suspenders sort of deal, for not a lot of money. Think it will cost under $25 for all the conduit I need. It is 230 volts, and does pass under a flower bed. I suspect the reason for the original cables failure could be traced to it being under the driveway and direct burial. Conduit seems like cheap insurance.

http://www.xwalk.com/images/Table_300.5-Min_Cover_Reqts.pdf
Click to expand...
Your chart says "direct burial cables" 24", unless you plan on running them under your driveway or outdoor parking area, right?
 
glhs837

glhs837

Power with Control
Ah, I see where I went wrong. If I'm now reading it correctly, I do need 24 inches where it is NOT driveway or parking, and I could (although it's not worth it, since it's only 10 feet out of a 30 foot run) come up to 18 inches for the part under the driveway. So my run is 5 under dirt, 10 feet under driveway, then 10 feet under a garden bed and a deck (5 and 5) to the wall of the house. Might as well dig the whole thing to 24.
 
Ken King

Ken King

A little rusty but not crusty
PREMO Member
glhs837 said:
Ah, I see where I went wrong. If I'm now reading it correctly, I do need 24 inches where it is NOT driveway or parking, and I could (although it's not worth it, since it's only 10 feet out of a 30 foot run) come up to 18 inches for the part under the driveway. So my run is 5 under dirt, 10 feet under driveway, then 10 feet under a garden bed and a deck (5 and 5) to the wall of the house. Might as well dig the whole thing to 24.
Click to expand...
:yay:
Or, if you use conduit, run it at 18" the entire run.
 
glhs837

glhs837

Power with Control
Ah, so Column 3 is the ruling bit you are talking about regarding using conduit? Is non-metallic raceway the same as PVC conduit?
 
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