1994 Full Size Chevy Blazer-Custom/Need Advice

[Pete]

Interesting you would say that. The more I thought about parting with my SUV, the sadder I was about the whole thing. I think what I'll do is put money into the SUV for emissions repairs up to whatever the minimum is to get a temporary waiver, go get the waiver from MVA, then spend the next year or so getting work done to my beloved SUV - I can't believe I would love a vehicle so much as I do this one.

I agree, someone told me that I needed the proper springs/shocks. Because of the short wheel base, I end up with the front end lifting up while the rear drags down. With the proper springs/shocks, I hear I won't have that issue. I already have the Reese brake controller so do I need different brakes on the SUV?

You can get a rebuilt 350 long block fairly cheap. Pay someone to swap out the old tired engine with a factory fresh one and drive it another 10 years. Should be doable for $2K or less.

 

[ArkRescue]

You can get a rebuilt 350 long block fairly cheap. Pay someone to swap out the old tired engine with a factory fresh one and drive it another 10 years. Should be doable for $2K or less.

Why wouldn't I want to rebuild MY engine? Does it cost more?

 

[Pete]

Why wouldn't I want to rebuild MY engine? Does it cost more?

Yes and time. You locate an engine rebuilding company like Jasper. You order the engine, it comes in a crate a week later. Your mechanic pulls your engine and swaps over all the parts not included on the new engine, generator, AC compressor, and so on. Puts the new engine in your truck and sends your old engine back to Jasper (core) to be rebuilt and sold again and you drive off in a few days with a 3 year 100,000 mile warranty.

If you have them rebuild your engine you have to have it disassembled, the heads and block taken to a machine shop to be machined, they have to order and collect pistons, rings,wrist pins, bearings, valves, valve guides........maybe even have to get a new crankshaft. It would take weeks, cost more especially if they discover something wrong inside that needs to be replaced.

 

[DEEKAYPEE8569]

Find Out What "Book" Is

I have a 1994 full size 4x4 Chevy Blazer that says Silverado and 1500 on the side - not Blazer on it anywhere (not sure why). Fully loaded, has a custom paint job that is showing age with clear coat coming off around the edges ... hey was a NICE ride in 1994! I can take pictures to post of it tomorrow. I had a tow hitch and a brake controller installed on it.

I couldn't get it to pass emissions in the Spring, they gave me an extension, after replacing a hose to part of the emissions equipment I take it back and they say it's smoking too much to let me test. So now I am being told by the shop (trustworthy guy) that the engine is using oil and it could be pricey to keep digging to find the cause. I had him stop looking after he pulled the left valve cover and said he didn't see anything obvious.

I have needed a p/u to pull my horse trailer anyway, so I am thinking to sell the SUV. How much value do I lose by selling a vehicle that won't pass emissions and needs some work? The trans was replaced about 4 years ago ($3,400) and I just put a new Flowmaster exhaust system on it recently. It has a 5.7L V-8 engine with just over 200k miles.

It runs, it just smokes and won't pass emissions. So how much should I look to discount from the value for its emissions/oil burning issues?

Look up a couple things. First look up the VIN. That will tell you wether or not it's a Blazer or a Silverado 1500.

Look up the Blue Book on it; or try Edmund's.com; subtracting for mileage. That is usually a good baseline for determining what you MIGHT be able to get for it.

Then sell it "AS IS" and/or "O.B.O.." if you can find the value in Blue Book.
If it's a '94 anything; it should be in the Blue Book.

 

[ArkRescue]

Look up a couple things. First look up the VIN. That will tell you wether or not it's a Blazer or a Silverado 1500.

Look up the Blue Book on it; or try Edmund's.com; subtracting for mileage. That is usually a good baseline for determining what you MIGHT be able to get for it.

Then sell it "AS IS" and/or "O.B.O.." if you can find the value in Blue Book.
If it's a '94 anything; it should be in the Blue Book.

KBB said it was just over $2200 (private party sale) after I input all the features vs. the condition, etc. (failed emissions, needs some work, average condition basically)

I entered the VIN at another site and I get:

# Year: 1994
# Make: Chevrolet
* Style / Body: SUV 2D
* Engine: 5.7L V8 TBI
* Country of Assembly: United States
* Model: Blazer Cheyenne / Silverado

 

[Softballkid]

First Mistake: GM = General Malfunctions.

Get a 205 or 207 engine, have it rebuilt and balanced and blueprinted.

Get new alternator, A/C compressor, Fuel Injection/Turbo System (this is the time to do it),
and a performance package for the intake system. By the time you're done, the engine will be a jewel, in literal terms because of price.

A well-done 205/207 delivers decent gas mileage AND performance. Otherwise, sell the truck and buy a (1) Dodge or (2) Toyota truck

I thought you were telling him NOT to buy junk

 

[ArkRescue]

Carfax shows for VIN:

Vehicle: 1994 CHEVROLET K1500 BLAZER

 

[Softballkid]

True but you put $2000.00 in a 94 with 200,000 on the rest of the vehicle when it isn't going to be worth that....Not bashing your truck but think about it....

Depends how you look at it. I just dropped a total of about 2k into a 98 Taurus with 212k on it. New(used) engine from Brandywine, new brake lines, new brakes, and a few other things.

Now granted, even though I just put 2k-ish into it, it may only be worth that. but, what used car am I going to get for around 2k, that I know has at least 100k left in it :shrug:

Sometimes, it is easier to push out a grand or 2 than it is to go buy a newer used vehicle and have payments, or even shell out 5-6k in the bank, plus you are going to have to learn all the new problems of said vehicle.

 

[ArkRescue]

Jasper shows the following available for my VIN:

Click on a stock number in the results listing below for additional information.
Stock # Comment Price Valve Type Perf Clss Notes
126910 AVAILABLE FROM JASPER $1828.00 Regular Standard
126916 AVAILABLE FROM JASPER $1897.00 Regular Class I
315317 AVAILABLE FROM JASPER $2858.00 Stainless Steel Class II

 

[ArkRescue]

Depends how you look at it. I just dropped a total of about 2k into a 98 Taurus with 212k on it. New(used) engine from Brandywine, new brake lines, new brakes, and a few other things.

Now granted, even though I just put 2k-ish into it, it may only be worth that. but, what used car am I going to get for around 2k, that I know has at least 100k left in it :shrug:

Sometimes, it is easier to push out a grand or 2 than it is to go buy a newer used vehicle and have payments, or even shell out 5-6k in the bank, plus you are going to have to learn all the new problems of said vehicle.

I was thinking the same thing about my SUV. I KNOW how much I've already spent on it as far as repairs, and with it having a new-ish trans in it, and a brand new Flowmaster dual exhaust system, I am apprehensive about selling it for a mere $2k when the trans and exhaust alone was over $4k together. Seems like I'd get the best value by getting the emissions issues fixed (even if it means an engine replacement or overhaul) and keeping it.

 

[Pete]

Jasper shows the following available for my VIN:

Click on a stock number in the results listing below for additional information.
Stock # Comment Price Valve Type Perf Clss Notes
126910 AVAILABLE FROM JASPER $1828.00 Regular Standard
126916 AVAILABLE FROM JASPER $1897.00 Regular Class I
315317 AVAILABLE FROM JASPER $2858.00 Stainless Steel Class II

Find out how much someone would charge to swap and total it up.

 

[Softballkid]

I was thinking the same thing about my SUV. I KNOW how much I've already spent on it as far as repairs, and with it having a new-ish trans in it, and a brand new Flowmaster dual exhaust system, I am apprehensive about selling it for a mere $2k when the trans and exhaust alone was over $4k together. Seems like I'd get the best value by getting the emissions issues fixed (even if it means an engine replacement or overhaul) and keeping it.

Call Brandywine auto on the corner of 301/Brandywine Rd. That is the shop I got my engine from, and the install shop is a 1/4 mi down the street (on Brandywine Rd), I also had them install it. May be worth it :shrug:

 

[ArkRescue]

Call Brandywine auto on the corner of 301/Brandywine Rd. That is the shop I got my engine from, and the install shop is a 1/4 mi down the street (on Brandywine Rd), I also had them install it. May be worth it :shrug:

I've dealt with Brandywne a few times.

I just got some advice from a friend to get my engine compression tested, which I will. I also need to see what emissions parts may be malfunctioning.

 

[ArkRescue]

Update

The compression test ($200) was interpreted by the shop that conducted the test, and their impression was I need new rings. ETC also checked it out and came to the same conclusion, rings.

As much as I'd like to get a new Jasper engine, I just don't have the $3700 the shop wants to do it. So after using help from a friend, I will get my engine rebuilt by a good mechanic nearby for $1,200 (parts and labor). The mechanic said he will send something (heads?) to the machine shop also.

 

[DEEKAYPEE8569]

I doubt the engine is in need of replacement, but there is something going on for the smoke to be an issue. It sounds really good when it's running, doesn't miss or spit at all (I think I used the right terms?) .....

Just sounds like it needs a set of rings.

 

[ArkRescue]

Just sounds like it needs a set of rings.

With 230k miles, we figured it may as well get everything since I plan to keep it long term as a tow vehicle.

 

[Gilligan]

With 230k miles, we figured it may as well get everything since I plan to keep it long term as a tow vehicle.

Its always cheaper to purchase a complete "Rebuild kit" than the individual parts anyway. EVen a master overhaul kit with new pistons is relatively inexpensive in kit form.

And the heads should always be sent to a shop for at least seat and seal work, check deck flatness..and guides if needed.

Sounds like your mechanic is on the right track so far.

 

[ArkRescue]

Its always cheaper to purchase a complete "Rebuild kit" than the individual parts anyway. EVen a master overhaul kit with new pistons is relatively inexpensive in kit form.

And the heads should always be sent to a shop for at least seat and seal work, check deck flatness..and guides if needed.

Sounds like your mechanic is on the right track so far.

I can handle $1,200 a lot easier than $3,700 that's for sure. Let's hope when they get into the job that there are no surprises that could throw a kink in the process. His normal price for this type of a rebuild is around $1,600-$1,800 so I am fortunate to have gotten the price that I did - thank goodness for friends of friends .

 

[DEEKAYPEE8569]

Its always cheaper to purchase a complete "Rebuild kit" than the individual parts anyway. EVen a master overhaul kit with new pistons is relatively inexpensive in kit form.

And the heads should always be sent to a shop for at least seat and seal work, check deck flatness..and guides if needed.

Sounds like your mechanic is on the right track so far.

A rebuild kit or a crate motor; whichever is more budget friendly.

 

[Gilligan]

A rebuild kit or a crate motor; whichever is more budget friendly.

Almost impossible to determine before the original engine is torn down and the machining costs/requirements assessed.

A rebuild kit that includes everything inc. new pistons is only about 350 bucks for a 350 Chevy. So if the block does not need to be bored..and the heads are not slap worn out..and the mechanic doing the work knows what they are doing...

It can be a good bit cheaper to rebuild it rather than purchase a reputable long block assy. Or not.

Let's hope Arkie's luck holds.