Basement Finishing

[lilblondeone19]

Starting to get estimates to frame our basement-plan on finishing approximately 700-800 sf of it. The first couple estimates are outrageous ranging from 7-10k just to frame! Is this to be expected or way too high? Any good contractors that you can recommend? Also looking for drywall installation, and we plan on doing the painting, trim, electric, plumbing.

 

[Smith]

That is really high for framing a basement of that size, unless there is some unique circumstance they are taking into account. Check this out: http://www.homewyse.com/services/cost_to_frame_wall.html

If the framing contractor pulls permits, you will then have to hire an electrician and a plumber to pull those permits.

 

[DoWhat]

That is really high for framing a basement of that size, unless there is some unique circumstance they are taking into account. Check this out: http://www.homewyse.com/services/cost_to_frame_wall.html

If the framing contractor pulls permits, you will then have to hire an electrician and a plumber to pull those permits.

Cool website.
Thanks Smith

 

[Goldenhawk]

Seems high to me. House prices are $130-$150 per square foot right now in many neighborhoods - about the same price as you were quoted for merely wood. I think you need another bid. If I were you, I'd ask for an itemized quote, showing materials costs separate from labor. That will show you the breakout.

Framing a basement of 800 sq ft should take a competent professional just a few days with a small crew - maybe 24-48 man hours, unless you have some really odd setup. Shucks, I framed a 1200 sq foot single floor by myself in a few days, including sheathing the outside; I only had help standing up the walls. I can see paying the foreman or General Contractor $100/hour, but his laborers shouldn't be more than $25/hour even with benefits and insurance ($10 if they're undocumented....). So I would guess labor would top out at a couple thousand.

As to materials, studs at Lowes right now are $2.50 each; top and bottom plate is $0.40/foot. Figure on 1 stud every 16 inches of wall, plus top and bottom plates, plus some kind of structure for the ceiling. Add 50% excess for corner posts and the like, and for extra structure like headers. Assuming 24x36 feet, in four rooms so one set of crossing walls, that's about 180 feet of wall, for about 135 studs. Add 50% extra for corners and waste gives you about 200 studs, for $500. Top and bottom plate is another 540 feet, for another $220. You can probably make it cheaper by furring out the walls rather than full studs. I doubt framing for a full ceiling is required, but you'd have to add a suitable amount for some kind of ceiling framing if you plan to drywall it and you can't simply apply the drywall to the bottom of the first floor joists. So add some suitable amount for boxing around HVAC and plumbing and wiring as required. Add more if you have a lot of walls in mind, and it's not just a big open space.

So even assuming a lot of lumber I haven't thought of, that's still around $1000 for lumber, or maybe $1500 if you need to frame the ceiling. (And you can do far better at 84 Lumber with a contractor's account.)

So I guess I'd be looking for a bid around $4000 tops.

No, I'm not for hire.

 

[Freefaller]

Go to the Owens Corning web site (google it) and look up their basement finishing system. Pretty cool

 

[PeoplesElbow]

If not done correctly you will have a moldy, musty stinky basement. Not to say the contractor that gave you the high quote would do it right or not though.

Personally for a basement I dont think you can beat just painting the cinder block white with dryloc paint and painting the floor with an epoxy coating for the money.

 

[GWguy]

I've been dealing with Two point Construction in Lexington Park. 301-862-2121. Small outfit, but decent work and accommodating.

I agree with PE above, DryLoc the walls before any framing goes up. Cuts down on moisture, mold, smell, cement dust, etc...

 

[Goldenhawk]

If not done correctly you will have a moldy, musty stinky basement. Not to say the contractor that gave you the high quote would do it right or not though.

Fully agree with this. But that shouldn't change the framing costs at all, unless they explicitly included all that work.

 

[DoWhat]

If not done correctly you will have a moldy, musty stinky basement. Not to say the contractor that gave you the high quote would do it right or not though.

Personally for a basement I dont think you can beat just painting the cinder block white with dryloc paint and painting the floor with an epoxy coating for the money.

Most of that work should of been done on outside foundation.

 

[PeoplesElbow]

Most of that work should of been done on outside foundation.

Water in the dirt outside the wall isn't the only source of moisture that penetrates the walls.

 

[DoWhat]

Water in the dirt outside the wall isn't the only source of moisture that penetrates the walls.

So where is the moisture coming from?

 

[kom526]

Go to the Owens Corning web site (google it) and look up their basement finishing system. Pretty cool

Bring your checkbook and a fainting couch too. Their quote for our basement was 35k. Granted, the building panels they use are very cool but not 35k cool.

Metal studs are the only way to go in a basement application. Never rot, always straight and easy to work with.

 

[Humbled]

Starting to get estimates to frame our basement-plan on finishing approximately 700-800 sf of it. The first couple estimates are outrageous ranging from 7-10k just to frame! Is this to be expected or way too high? Any good contractors that you can recommend? Also looking for drywall installation, and we plan on doing the painting, trim, electric, plumbing.

What is the sf wall area? $2.25 to 2.79 per square foot of wall area ( measured on one side only) is a good local price for labor and materials. The low end for smooth/blank walls, the upper end for cut up walls, with lots of obstacles requiring bulkheads, bump outs, alcoves, how difficult access is, is the place full of junk...er treasures, etc... You're doing the plumbing and electric? Getting a permit? You should. Costs a few hundred more with inspections added in, but well worth it when you sell your home or when the insurance co. wants to know why the fire or flood occurred. Also think you'd need to pass a competency test to do your own plumbing and electric. A smart contractor would never pull a permit, without complete control of the project... Happy Home Improvements to ya !

 

[PeoplesElbow]

So where is the moisture coming from?

Since the ground, or outside of the cinder block, is most likely colder than the inside of the basement warmer air can cause sweating inside the cavities of the cinder blocks the drylock would seal this moisture from getting into the basement.

Easy way to tell if this may be an issue is to get a square of aluminum foil and tape it to the cinder blocks, wait a week then pull it off, if the block is dark you may have a moisture issue. The foil could even have condensation on it if it is bad enough.

I painted my parents entire basement with dryloc and it made such a difference to the way the basement felt, so much brighter, cleaner, and I swear it doesn't feel as damp. Also painted all 1600 sq ft of concrete floor. In all I think it cost less than $500, while not truly finished it feels way more inviting.

 

[DoWhat]

Since the ground, or outside of the cinder block, is most likely colder than the inside of the basement warmer air can cause sweating inside the cavities of the cinder blocks the drylock would seal this moisture from getting into the basement.

Easy way to tell if this may be an issue is to get a square of aluminum foil and tape it to the cinder blocks, wait a week then pull it off, if the block is dark you may have a moisture issue. The foil could even have condensation on it if it is bad enough.

I painted my parents entire basement with dryloc and it made such a difference to the way the basement felt, so much brighter, cleaner, and I swear it doesn't feel as damp. Also painted all 1600 sq ft of concrete floor. In all I think it cost less than $500, while not truly finished it feels way more inviting.

Drylock is usually needed on inside concrete walls, due to improper foundation and slab prep (drainage away from foundation, proper foundation sealing and moisture barriers).
Inside moisture should be dealt with, with a good central air system.

 

[PeoplesElbow]

Drylock is usually needed on inside concrete walls, due to improper foundation and slab prep (drainage away from foundation, proper foundation sealing and moisture barriers).
Inside moisture should be dealt with, with a good central air system.

The central air can't do anything if the concrete wall has framing over it, that moisture just stays between your cinder block wall and the panneling or drywall. The reason a vapor barrier is on the inside side of a wall.

 

[lilblondeone19]

The house is only 3 years old so the basement is fine. We plan on pulling our own permits, as I am no stranger to the permit office. We have 3 contractors coming today for estimates and still waiting for 4 more by e-mail. Hopefully they won't be over 7k again!

 

[Hannibal]

Drylock or some level of moisture barrier is simply good practice (and insurance) when finishing a basement. Doesn't matter where the moisture originates or why it may be there. It's a relatively low cost measure that ensures a better finished product.

And often times, you may not be made aware of structural/drainage issues (that may ultimately lead to moisture) until well after the house was built. Water finds a way.