Help to get new water heater

P

Paul Wu

Member
GeorgiaCorgi said:
So there's water coming from the bottom of my water heater. I'm pretty sure that isn't something that can be easily fixed. The water heater is from 2007 and came with my house so it's fairly old.

So what's the best way to get a decent deal on a replacement? Do I just buy from lowes and pay them to install it and haul away the old one? Should I call an independent plumber? Are there better stores than Lowes around the area?

Any help is greatly appreciated.
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While I don't have water leaking yet, the bottom of mine is rusted. A warning sign indeed.
I'll be in the same boat soon.
Currently deciding on going tankless to free up room to access the well bladder tank.
A tough choice. Stay with a tank style, but continue to make it almost impossible to access well equipment, or go tankless but need to get a bigger breaker box. I guess in the long run, either choice will be expensive.
Let us know how it turned out and who you ended up using.
 
G

GeorgiaCorgi

Member
Paul Wu said:
While I don't have water leaking yet, the bottom of mine is rusted. A warning sign indeed.
I'll be in the same boat soon.
Currently deciding on going tankless to free up room to access the well bladder tank.
A tough choice. Stay with a tank style, but continue to make it almost impossible to access well equipment, or go tankless but need to get a bigger breaker box. I guess in the long run, either choice will be expensive.
Let us know how it turned out and who you ended up using.
Click to expand...

Still investigating. What we thought was a leak from the bottom seems to be an coming from the pressure/heat release valve. The insulation blanket kept the water close to the tank and a lot of water settled under it, but after that dried out and we put a bucket under the pipe from the valve it has discharged at least once more. Doesn't seem to happen right after using a lot of hot water, and the water still comes out of the tap at 125 so I don't see how it could be a heat issue. The tank has a smart board that doesn't show any errors like upper or lower heating element broken. Husband ordered a pressure gauge to see if our water pressure is high.

Thanks again for following up.
 
Sneakers

Sneakers

Just sneakin' around....
GeorgiaCorgi said:
Still investigating. What we thought was a leak from the bottom seems to be an coming from the pressure/heat release valve. The insulation blanket kept the water close to the tank and a lot of water settled under it, but after that dried out and we put a bucket under the pipe from the valve it has discharged at least once more. Doesn't seem to happen right after using a lot of hot water, and the water still comes out of the tap at 125 so I don't see how it could be a heat issue. The tank has a smart board that doesn't show any errors like upper or lower heating element broken. Husband ordered a pressure gauge to see if our water pressure is high.

Thanks again for following up.
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Those valves fail occasionally. VERY easy and inexpensive to replace it. Turn off the electric and water to the tank, drain a couple of gallons out of the bottom (no need to drain the whole tank), unscrew the old valve. Use teflon tape on the new valve, re-insert and tighten. I'd replace it 'just because'.
 
willie

willie

Well-Known Member
GeorgiaCorgi said:
Still investigating. What we thought was a leak from the bottom seems to be an coming from the pressure/heat release valve. The insulation blanket kept the water close to the tank and a lot of water settled under it, but after that dried out and we put a bucket under the pipe from the valve it has discharged at least once more. Doesn't seem to happen right after using a lot of hot water, and the water still comes out of the tap at 125 so I don't see how it could be a heat issue. The tank has a smart board that doesn't show any errors like upper or lower heating element broken. Husband ordered a pressure gauge to see if our water pressure is high.

Thanks again for following up.
Click to expand...
I have not read this whole thread, this may have already been addressed. If you have municipal water (not a well) then you need an expansion tank. An abrupt closing of a water valve will cause a pressure spike and the release valve is the weak link. With well water, the pre charged water tank absorbs the shock, a closed system needs help.
 
CPUSA

CPUSA

Well-Known Member
There is no doubt that Boothe's does great work, are dependable, etc...
But for some reason, Wayne has gotten so big he thinks he can rake you over the coals.
When I needed my AC replaced, he was the highest price. The same system he wanted almost $10,000 for, I got it from Simmons for half that.

And I like Wayne...but he's gouging homeowners...
 
LightRoasted

LightRoasted

If I may ...
If I may ...

CPUSA said:
There is no doubt that Boothe's does great work, are dependable, etc...
But for some reason, Wayne has gotten so big he thinks he can rake you over the coals.
When I needed my AC replaced, he was the highest price. The same system he wanted almost $10,000 for, I got it from Simmons for half that.

And I like Wayne...but he's gouging homeowners...
Click to expand...
Well, it's part because he doesn't own Boothe's anymore. And prior to being acquired is the reason he charged so much to get the attention of company buyers. And of course to pad his own pockets.

Wrench Group Acquires Boothe's Heating, Air & Plumbing
 
G

General Lee

Well-Known Member
CPUSA said:
There is no doubt that Boothe's does great work, are dependable, etc...
But for some reason, Wayne has gotten so big he thinks he can rake you over the coals.
When I needed my AC replaced, he was the highest price. The same system he wanted almost $10,000 for, I got it from Simmons for half that.

And I like Wayne...but he's gouging homeowners...
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You are correct. As I stated earlier on, I'm about done with Boothe's. He's gotten to big for his pants and has to charge outrageous prices for it. Plus the product of the month he pushes is whatever contract he is currently in. When I got my AC replaced, nothing was better than American Standard (Trane) blah blah blah. Now its Rheem. Next it'll be some other brand. And his "specials" are a joke.
 
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G

General Lee

Well-Known Member
willie said:
I have not read this whole thread, this may have already been addressed. If you have municipal water (not a well) then you need an expansion tank. An abrupt closing of a water valve will cause a pressure spike and the release valve is the weak link. With well water, the pre charged water tank absorbs the shock, a closed system needs help.
Click to expand...
I'm on a well and according to Boothe's its code to have an expansion tank on all water heaters......... who knows.
 
spr1975wshs

spr1975wshs

Mostly settled in...
Ad Free Experience
Patron
General Lee said:
I'm on a well and according to Boothe's its code to have an expansion tank on all water heaters......... who knows.
Click to expand...
When I worked as a Plumbing sales associate at Lowe's, we were told by a co-worker who is a semi-retired professional plumber, pressure tanks on "City" water only. As Willie wrote, well tank does that.
 
G

General Lee

Well-Known Member
spr1975wshs said:
When I worked as a Plumbing sales associate at Lowe's, we were told by a co-worker who is a semi-retired professional plumber, pressure tanks on "City" water only. As Willie wrote, well tank does that.
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Well probably another reason for Boothe's to add to the cost for my situation.
 
GURPS

GURPS

INGSOC
PREMO Member
spr1975wshs said:
pressure tanks on "City" water only.
Click to expand...


You mean down in the county ? aka in the suburbs ... the water pressure can be more that 50 lbs coming off the street

DC City Water is low pressure .. the only ' reducing ' valve / pressure regulator required was on the hot water heating system ...
 
LightRoasted

LightRoasted

If I may ...
If I may ...

General Lee said:
Well probably another reason for Boothe's to add to the cost for my situation.
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Yeah. If you are on a well, your blue well water holding bladder pressure tank, the tank that holds the the pressure in the tank at around 35psi which, when you turn on the water, first pushes water out, before your well pump even comes on, using the pressure built up from the compressed air in the bladder portion of the tank which was compressed using the bladder by the incoming water from the well pump. When the compressed air pressure in the tank reaches a certain low set point, say, 15psi, it is then a switch is activated that turns on your well pump to keep the water pressure at the tap from changing, then when you turn off the water the well pump continues until the tank pressure reaches 35psi and then the well pump will shut off.

This is the reason why an expansion tank is not required in a house with well setup because the bladder in the blue well water holding bladder pressure tank performs this function.

Tell Boothe's to go pound sand or find another reputable plumber.
 
black dog

black dog

Free America
LightRoasted said:
If I may ...


Yeah. If you are on a well, your blue well water holding bladder pressure tank, the tank that holds the the pressure in the tank at around 35psi which, when you turn on the water, first pushes water out, before your well pump even comes on, using the pressure built up from the compressed air in the bladder portion of the tank which was compressed using the bladder by the incoming water from the well pump. When the compressed air pressure in the tank reaches a certain low set point, say, 15psi, it is then a switch is activated that turns on your well pump to keep the water pressure at the tap from changing, then when you turn off the water the well pump continues until the tank pressure reaches 35psi and then the well pump will shut off.

This is the reason why an expansion tank is not required in a house with well setup because the bladder in the blue well water holding bladder pressure tank performs this function.

Tell Boothe's to go pound sand or find another reputable plumber.
Click to expand...

With 15psi of water water pressuse is almost non existence...
Your way off, most well pressure switches are set at 35 on the low to 55 on the high side with a 20 lb varible kept between the two. Most are adjusted to 45-65 during installation.
 
LightRoasted

LightRoasted

If I may ...
If I may ...

black dog said:
With 15psi of water water pressuse is almost non existence...
Your way off, most well pressure switches are set at 35 on the low to 55 on the high side with a 20 lb varible kept between the two. Most are adjusted to 45-65 during installation.
Click to expand...
That's why I predicated the statements with, "around 35psi", and, "say, 15psi". It wasn't meant to be exacting numbers. Just to give information to those reading an idea of how a well system with a bladder tank works.
 
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