Hot water heater expansion tank psi?

Clem72

Well-Known Member
The knowledge of weekend warriors has no bounds.
You literally posted the same thing I did you retard. We were making the same point. I'm glad you were a good plumber, I assume it doesn't require very advanced math or reading skills given what I have seen of your vast intelligence.
 

softtouch

Member
I closed the house main water valve and drained down the system. The tank air was 9 psi.
Pumped it up with a manual pump on a step ladder to 44.5 psi. Not strong enough at age 91 to go any higher.
Laundry tub spigot at 50 psi, tank air is 48.5 psi.
With outdoor hose spigot open, laundry tub spigot is at 32 psi, the tank air is 42.5 psi.
I think I will drain the system again in six months to see if the tank holds its pressure.
 
  • Like
Reactions: TPD

black dog

Free America
I closed the house main water valve and drained down the system. The tank air was 9 psi.
Pumped it up with a manual pump on a step ladder to 44.5 psi. Not strong enough at age 91 to go any higher.
Laundry tub spigot at 50 psi, tank air is 48.5 psi.
With outdoor hose spigot open, laundry tub spigot is at 32 psi, the tank air is 42.5 psi.
I think I will drain the system again in six months to see if the tank holds its pressure.
If the tank bladder is bad it will be full of water when you attach your hand pump or pressure gauge to the schreder valve, and you wouldnt have any pressure in it with the house drained own.
 

Kinnakeet

Well-Known Member
I closed the house main water valve and drained down the system. The tank air was 9 psi.
Pumped it up with a manual pump on a step ladder to 44.5 psi. Not strong enough at age 91 to go any higher.
Laundry tub spigot at 50 psi, tank air is 48.5 psi.
With outdoor hose spigot open, laundry tub spigot is at 32 psi, the tank air is 42.5 psi.
I think I will drain the system again in six months to see if the tank holds its pressure.
Why
 

black dog

Free America
Why did they not have a expansion tank in the old days like in the 80's early 90's
I believe bladder-diaphragm tanks have been around since the 1920's. I'm going to guess they were put in use in the 1970's with city water and the advancement with modern water meters that come with check valves and or pressure regulation. Before that when one heats water and it expands it could simply be pushed back through the water lines to the street, neighbors home and so on.
Now in most counties a one way device such as a single/dual check valve or depending on equipment a Back-flow device is installed in your city water service and your water cant reverse when it expands when heated. A bladder tank will also help with homes that have a water hammer.
Thus a small bladder tank is a safety feature in your water system.

Does that help?
 

Kinnakeet

Well-Known Member
I believe bladder-diaphragm tanks have been around since the 1920's. I'm going to guess they were put in use in the 1970's with city water and the advancement with modern water meters that come with check valves and or pressure regulation. Before that when one heats water and it expands it could simply be pushed back through the water lines to the street, neighbors home and so on.
Now in most counties a one way device such as a single/dual check valve or depending on equipment a Back-flow device is installed in your city water service and your water cant reverse when it expands when heated. A bladder tank will also help with homes that have a water hammer.
Thus a small bladder tank is a safety feature in your water system.

Does that help?
My home was built in 2000 no expansion tank on water heater but one where the line from my well comes thru the basement wall
 

softtouch

Member
I had a shallow well in the '60s that had a pressure tank. It was a galvanized tank with no bladder.
The pump would "short cycle" when the tank got "water logged". Then it was time to drain the tank.
 
Top