Let's Just Say.....

[DEEKAYPEE8569]

You're at a car dealership. You found the car you want; all the bells and whistles; the right color. You're looking at the sticker and there's a $2K difference between the MSRP and the list price. Let's also just say that you cannot see paying the list price; and you know the difference between the MSRP and the list price.

Any "Hagglers" in here?

 

[Nickel]

So haggle. They either say yes or no. :shrug:

 

[sanchezf]

You're at a car dealership. You found the car you want; all the bells and whistles; the right color. You're looking at the sticker and there's a $2K difference between the MSRP and the list price. Let's also just say that you cannot see paying the list price; and you know the difference between the MSRP and the list price.

Any "Hagglers" in here?

I have never paid full price for a vehicle. I will Haggle away or go else where..

 

[glhs837]

Lets make sure we are speaking the same language.

MSRP is the bottom line on the Mulrooney sticker.

"List price", not sure about this one, is it higher than the MSRP? Usually found on a dealer added sticker with such gems as ADM (Additional Dealer Markup), or some such gobbledygook. Or is it lower?

In any case, be prefinanaced for the max amount you are willing to pay. Tell the dealership what that number is, and "they can call you when they are ready to sell it at that price, have a nice day, and I'll be looking elsewhere in the meantime" The best way to haggle is not to. Convenient to buy locally maybe, but 1,000 or 2,000 will cover a hunk of travel.

 

[DEEKAYPEE8569]

Lets make sure we are speaking the same language.

MSRP is the bottom line on the Mulrooney sticker.

"List price", not sure about this one, is it higher than the MSRP? Usually found on a dealer added sticker with such gems as ADM (Additional Dealer Markup), or some such gobbledygook. Or is it lower?

In any case, be prefinanaced for the max amount you are willing to pay. Tell the dealership what that number is, and "they can call you when they are ready to sell it at that price, have a nice day, and I'll be looking elsewhere in the meantime" The best way to haggle is not to. Convenient to buy locally maybe, but 1,000 or 2,000 will cover a hunk of travel.

I'm talking about the Monroney sticker.....the one that the dealerships put in the car windows; and want to sell you a particular car for. What I know as the MSRP is the first number at the top; before the list of options and the destination charges. The List price is the bigger $ figure at the bottom; after listing the prices for the options and so on.

 

[glhs837]

I'm talking about the Monroney sticker.....the one that the dealerships put in the car windows; and want to sell you a particular car for. What I know as the MSRP is the first number at the top; before the list of options and the destination charges. The List price is the bigger $ figure at the bottom; after listing the prices for the options and so on.

I'm talking about the Monroney sticker.....the one that the dealerships put in the car windows; and want to sell you a particular car for. What I know as the MSRP is the first number at the top; before the list of options and the destination charges. The List price is the bigger $ figure at the bottom; after listing the prices for the options and so on.

Ah, thats the "total price", but it's name varies, Toyota calls it the Total Vehicle Price, Ford callls it "Total MSRP".

In any case, JM, is right, those numbers are not the ones to be concerned with. Barring cases like extremely rare cars, it's better to go from invoice price, a number you can generate from multiple sources on the web. Once you have that number, you can figure out about how much profit you are willing to give them. Me, anywhere between 500-800 over invoice seems reasonable. Now, even if you get it at invoice, they are still making money, anywhere from %3-%5 of the MSRP, under whats called "holdback". Me, I'm not trying that hard, so I figure it from invoice.

 

[Chasey_Lane]

So haggle. They either say yes or no. :shrug:

Is this a trick thread or something?

 

[DEEKAYPEE8569]

Is this a trick thread or something?

Wasn't MY intention

 

[DEEKAYPEE8569]

Ah, thats the "total price", but it's name varies, Toyota calls it the Total Vehicle Price, Ford callls it "Total MSRP".

In any case, JM, is right, those numbers are not the ones to be concerned with. Barring cases like extremely rare cars, it's better to go from invoice price, a number you can generate from multiple sources on the web. Once you have that number, you can figure out about how much profit you are willing to give them. Me, anywhere between 500-800 over invoice seems reasonable. Now, even if you get it at invoice, they are still making money, anywhere from %3-%5 of the MSRP, under whats called "holdback". Me, I'm not trying that hard, so I figure it from invoice.

But, if you go into a dealership and say, 'okay, THIS is the invoice price for this car; and I'm not paying a penny more," won't the reply be, 'well, have a nice day"?

I was always told to shoot for the MSRP, vice the list price; that there was NO WAY a dealer is gonna sell you a car on their lot for invoice, no matter what percentage you are willing to "give" them.

I also remember a guy who told me when he got his brand new Trans Am back when Pontiac was around, that he ordered it from the factory.
How is THAT done?

 

[glhs837]

Depends on the popularity and availability of the car you are after, really. My Neon, was only going to be around 5-10 thousand made, and they sent the first couple thousand to FL and CA, to hit the always sunny crowd. SO on that car, I was working from MSRP. I could have gone the invoice route, but for that, I would had to wait til they filled the retail channel and all preorders were sold. Maybe a year after release. If its the brand new version of a popular model, you might have to go for MSRP. But for say a Mustang thats not a special edition, work from invoice.

Of course they will say "Have a nice day", and you wish them the same and go home. Just like a kid or a pet, you have to show them you are serious. And be willing to wait them out. Dont be mean, or get mad, or disparaging. That salesguy is under silly pressure. Just be nice and firm.

They will work from invoice, if they think that the only way to make a sale. See, invoice means they only make %3 profit. Here, take a read....

Dealer Holdback - Edmunds.com

And use the TMV tool for what you are after, see what they average person is paying. You will see it usually falls between invoice and MSRP. Now if you are after a limited edition (my Charger, first year of its type, only 5,000 or so made like it), you wont get far. I got lucky and the usual disclaimer about employee pricing not applying to SRT models. So my car that stickered at 43K was 38K out the door to me.

 

[DEEKAYPEE8569]

Depends on the popularity and availability of the car you are after, really. My Neon, was only going to be around 5-10 thousand made, and they sent the first couple thousand to FL and CA, to hit the always sunny crowd. SO on that car, I was working from MSRP. I could have gone the invoice route, but for that, I would had to wait til they filled the retail channel and all preorders were sold. Maybe a year after release. If its the brand new version of a popular model, you might have to go for MSRP. But for say a Mustang thats not a special edition, work from invoice.

Of course they will say "Have a nice day", and you wish them the same and go home. Just like a kid or a pet, you have to show them you are serious. And be willing to wait them out. Dont be mean, or get mad, or disparaging. That salesguy is under silly pressure. Just be nice and firm.

They will work from invoice, if they think that the only way to make a sale. See, invoice means they only make %3 profit. Here, take a read....

Dealer Holdback - Edmunds.com

And use the TMV tool for what you are after, see what they average person is paying. You will see it usually falls between invoice and MSRP. Now if you are after a limited edition (my Charger, first year of its type, only 5,000 or so made like it), you wont get far. I got lucky and the usual disclaimer about employee pricing not applying to SRT models. So my car that stickered at 43K was 38K out the door to me.

I know I'm repeating myself, but say I go to Winegardner tonight and they happen to have what I'm looking for on the lot. It is now the end of the month. Would "shooting for" MSRP, vice list, be worth the effort?

 

[Chasey_Lane]

I know I'm repeating myself, but say I go to Winegardner tonight and they happen to have what I'm looking for on the lot. It is now the end of the month. Would "shooting for" MSRP, vice list, be worth the effort?

Offer a price that's fair to you and is w/in your budget. I think you're thinking into this too much. Surely you've bought a vehicle before. Did you pay sticker price? Did you negotiate at all?

 

[glhs837]

Depends on what it is, and how easy it would be to find it elsewhere. A red SS Camaro, you can find those at any dealership. No reason to pay sticker, not when within 60 miles, there are what, 8-10 places you could get the same car. Now, if you want a ZL1, thats a different kettle of fish. Is not travelling to Annnapolis or VA worth say 1-3 thousand dollars? Only you can decide that.

Have you used GMs search tool to see where else that particular colr/option combo is in stock? Set it for say 100 miles.

As for ordering direct from the factory, no such thing anymore, hasnt been for decades. You get the dealership to order for you. No real price savings. The delaership would rather sell you a car on the lot, since those cars are costing them money every day they sit unsold. The one you order wont cost them anything, but they dont sell that car til it gets there, and so doenst help this months sales numbers. And they live and die by this months numbers.

 

[mrweb]

Lets make sure we are speaking the same language.

MSRP is the bottom line on the Mulrooney sticker.

"List price", not sure about this one, is it higher than the MSRP? Usually found on a dealer added sticker with such gems as ADM (Additional Dealer Markup), or some such gobbledygook. Or is it lower?

In any case, be prefinanaced for the max amount you are willing to pay. Tell the dealership what that number is, and "they can call you when they are ready to sell it at that price, have a nice day, and I'll be looking elsewhere in the meantime" The best way to haggle is not to. Convenient to buy locally maybe, but 1,000 or 2,000 will cover a hunk of travel.

Good advice. I was preapproved to co-sign a loan for my kid (hopefully not a mistake in hindsight) for a used car purchased locally, but since I had cash in hand, and knew how long the used car had been on the lot they dropped the price by $1500, from $7500 to $6000 out the door, including tax ant title. Research and go prepared. Dealers see a sucker a mile away.

 

[Gilligan]

Of course they will say "Have a nice day", and you wish them the same and go home. Just like a kid or a pet, you have to show them you are serious. And be willing to wait them out. Dont be mean, or get mad, or disparaging. That salesguy is under silly pressure. Just be nice and firm.

They will work from invoice, if they think that the only way to make a sale. See, invoice means they only make %3 profit. Here, take a read.....

Exactly. I worked two dealers against each other for well over a week to buy a new SUV (it helped that both had exactly the same vehicle on their lot). I didn't even offer them invoice to start things off; just a bit below invoice. By the time one finally dropped out of the 'bidding war' I ended up getting the truck I wanted for about 500 bucks more than what I offered in the beginning; still a tiny bit below invoice though. A little extra time..a little patience... I should also note that I was carefull about my timing too, I started the whole process in August..at the end of the model sales year for what I was buying.

 

[DEEKAYPEE8569]

Offer a price that's fair to you and is w/in your budget. I think you're thinking into this too much. Surely you've bought a vehicle before. Did you pay sticker price? Did you negotiate at all?

That's it.....I'm just overthinking it.

 

[Miker/t]

Find the car you like in the inventory on the dealers website and request the price online. I've done this with the last 6 or 7 cars I've purchased and have always gotten a quote lower than the price listed on Edmund's TMV.
If you get a price you like, you show up at the dealer take a test drive, do the paperwork and drive home. A couple of times I don't think we were at the dealer for more than an hour!

 

[DEEKAYPEE8569]

Find the car you like in the inventory on the dealers website and request the price online. I've done this with the last 6 or 7 cars I've purchased and have always gotten a quote lower than the price listed on Edmund's TMV.
If you get a price you like, you show up at the dealer take a test drive, do the paperwork and drive home. A couple of times I don't think we were at the dealer for more than an hour!

I've done that. I always get an e-mail or a phone call from the dealer I sent an internet price quote request to; and they always said, 'well, come on in and we'll work somethin' out.' In MY experience, requesting an internet price just gives them room to say, 'come on down; we'll talk.'

THIS time though, Winegardner had a car REALLY close to what I was looking for in the first place. So, I took it for a drive and told them I'd be back on Monday. Wouldn't ya know.....the tell me TODAY, that today is the last day I can get that car at THAT price. So, I'm trying to play two ends against the middle to see if I can get a better interest rate. The dealership is offering 3.9% for 54 months on $14, 466.00. I don't know what the monthly payment winds up being because they included $500 for trade in on MY car; which I didn't plan on trading in. I have a '97 Chrysler LHS with WAY over 100,000 mi on it. I'm considering letting them have it. I also just got off the phone with MY bank and they told me that because I have a foreclosure on my report from back in 0'10 that I may NOT be able to qualify for THEIR lower rate. The loan officer told me that she would ask "the committee" for this one-time appoval since I have this on such a short fuse. I don't expect a positive answer though. I might wind up financing at the higher rate to get the $381.16/month.

Since today is basically the "last chance" to get this car at the rate the dealer quoted me; other than my down payment and/or my car as trade in; should I expect to need any MORE money?

I haven't bought a brand new car since 1992. That's the reason for all the unsurety (sp?) and questions.

 

[glhs837]

A dealer offered "Last chance" isn't, I don't think, it's a pressure tool to close the deal fast, before the end of the month, so the sale happens this month instead of next month. One reason I say to stay away from dealer financing, unless you are a wizard at this stuff, they have million ways to shell game stuff. From anti-theft window etching, to rustproofing and fabric protection products, wheel and tire warranties, you name, they have a ton of ways to enhance their profit at your expense.

 

[DEEKAYPEE8569]

A dealer offered "Last chance" isn't, I don't think, it's a pressure tool to close the deal fast, before the end of the month, so the sale happens this month instead of next month. One reason I say to stay away from dealer financing, unless you are a wizard at this stuff, they have million ways to shell game stuff. From anti-theft window etching, to rustproofing and fabric protection products, wheel and tire warranties, you name, they have a ton of ways to enhance their profit at your expense.

Just sent you a P.M.