Thinking about buying / building an AK47
- Thread starter huntr1
- Start date
itsbob
I bowl overhand
Good luck finding one, and expect to pay well over retail if you do.
With an AK, you typically only buy external features for a complete weapon already in hand. Different stock options mainly. I could not imagine trying to mix and match uppers , lowers etc from any of the different manufacturers.
The one I owned for years was a Norinco; IIRC I paid about 400 for it new.
I'm drooling over the new Rock River LAR-47 that is just coming out.
New from Rock River Arms: LAR-47 (AR-15 in 7.62x39 That Takes AK Mags) | The Truth About Guns
The one I owned for years was a Norinco; IIRC I paid about 400 for it new.
I'm drooling over the new Rock River LAR-47 that is just coming out.
New from Rock River Arms: LAR-47 (AR-15 in 7.62x39 That Takes AK Mags) | The Truth About Guns
simply google 'Build Your Own AK ...
BuildYourOwnAK - This version hosted for posterity by nalioth
AK build, no shop press, advice? - THR
AK47 Parts Breakdown and Review
Surplus Gun Nuts - Part 1 - How To Build Your Own AK47
AK-47 building from parts kits - TheFirearmsForum.Com
basically you purchase a 'parts kit' bbl, semi auto trigger group, stock. trunion
a receiver flat or pre bent .... 80% NO FFL Required, or are you required to register the completed weapon, or are you prohibited from selling the weapon later, you cannot 'build to sell'
bend fold, rivet, [compress heads] ....
not really complicated ... if you can rebuild an engine, weld a patch on a fender or follow directions ....... you can build an AK
remember Haji makes these in Paki with NO fancy tools
I have seen receivers folded up around a custom machine block for just that purpose and ones bent around strap steel
some people here have nice garages with hydraulic presses and might offer to help
I think it would be an interesting project for a bunch of us to get together and build some guns
BuildYourOwnAK - This version hosted for posterity by nalioth
AK build, no shop press, advice? - THR
AK47 Parts Breakdown and Review
Surplus Gun Nuts - Part 1 - How To Build Your Own AK47
AK-47 building from parts kits - TheFirearmsForum.Com
basically you purchase a 'parts kit' bbl, semi auto trigger group, stock. trunion
a receiver flat or pre bent .... 80% NO FFL Required, or are you required to register the completed weapon, or are you prohibited from selling the weapon later, you cannot 'build to sell'
bend fold, rivet, [compress heads] ....
not really complicated ... if you can rebuild an engine, weld a patch on a fender or follow directions ....... you can build an AK
remember Haji makes these in Paki with NO fancy tools
I have seen receivers folded up around a custom machine block for just that purpose and ones bent around strap steel
some people here have nice garages with hydraulic presses and might offer to help
I think it would be an interesting project for a bunch of us to get together and build some guns
from ak-builder.com
AK-Builder Receiver Flat Instructions
Material 4130 Chromemoly Annealed Steel on rails and flat
These flats were designed to be bent and assembled like a manufacturer was trying to make a receiver. With that in mind the problems associated with pre-drilled holes in rails and holes too close to a bend had to be addressed.
This is why I made the holes undersized to have them drilled or reamed afterwards. The trigger pin hole stretches because the hole is too close to the bend. I made the hole a little smaller, but it still slightly bends outward and will need to be tapped on to bend it down. After bending that down then it’s ready to ream and will turn out better than any flat with the hole that was drilled to full size before bending.
To install the rails you slide them all the way up against the front trunnion. Make them parallel with the top rail and lined up with the front trunnion so the bolt slides in and out without jumping. Some people say to use a certain size drill bit, which is a good idea if you test fit to get the right size.
A) Oversized mag stabilizer on ejector and right side rails will need to be trimmed. It’s easier to do this before welding the rails in. The best way would be to get them close to the right size and final fit them after welding. That way if the mag opening is off center it can be accounted for.
B) The embossed dimple on the right rail will help center the hammer in
the center of the receiver. It is easier to install the trigger guard if it is done
before welding in the rails.
After installing the rails and trimming the ejector it will need to be heat treated on the tip to prevent the cases from denting the ejector.
Center support hole will be drilled to 5/32” after welding in the rails
The Hammer/Trigger pins will need to be reamed out to 7mm after bending.
These holes will need to be heat treated after reaming.
Center support hole will be drilled to 5/32” after welding in the rails
The Hammer/Trigger pins on the Operator side will need to be reamed to 5mm. The hole for the hammer pin should be drilled at .177 first then reamed to 5mm
Heat Treating Tips
Since 99% of most people will not have a kiln you will only be able to spot harden the hammer/trigger pin holes and the ejector.
Using a MAPP gas torch heat up each area individually and quench in oil. Be aware that standard oil will probably flame up and create lots of smoke. After doing this to each of the four hammer/trigger holes and the ejector you will want to clean the oils off of the blank. Once that is done put it in a regular oven at 400 degrees for an hour to get rid of the brittleness.
AK-Builder Receiver Flat Instructions
Material 4130 Chromemoly Annealed Steel on rails and flat
These flats were designed to be bent and assembled like a manufacturer was trying to make a receiver. With that in mind the problems associated with pre-drilled holes in rails and holes too close to a bend had to be addressed.
This is why I made the holes undersized to have them drilled or reamed afterwards. The trigger pin hole stretches because the hole is too close to the bend. I made the hole a little smaller, but it still slightly bends outward and will need to be tapped on to bend it down. After bending that down then it’s ready to ream and will turn out better than any flat with the hole that was drilled to full size before bending.
To install the rails you slide them all the way up against the front trunnion. Make them parallel with the top rail and lined up with the front trunnion so the bolt slides in and out without jumping. Some people say to use a certain size drill bit, which is a good idea if you test fit to get the right size.
A) Oversized mag stabilizer on ejector and right side rails will need to be trimmed. It’s easier to do this before welding the rails in. The best way would be to get them close to the right size and final fit them after welding. That way if the mag opening is off center it can be accounted for.
B) The embossed dimple on the right rail will help center the hammer in
the center of the receiver. It is easier to install the trigger guard if it is done
before welding in the rails.
After installing the rails and trimming the ejector it will need to be heat treated on the tip to prevent the cases from denting the ejector.
Center support hole will be drilled to 5/32” after welding in the rails
The Hammer/Trigger pins will need to be reamed out to 7mm after bending.
These holes will need to be heat treated after reaming.
Center support hole will be drilled to 5/32” after welding in the rails
The Hammer/Trigger pins on the Operator side will need to be reamed to 5mm. The hole for the hammer pin should be drilled at .177 first then reamed to 5mm
Heat Treating Tips
Since 99% of most people will not have a kiln you will only be able to spot harden the hammer/trigger pin holes and the ejector.
Using a MAPP gas torch heat up each area individually and quench in oil. Be aware that standard oil will probably flame up and create lots of smoke. After doing this to each of the four hammer/trigger holes and the ejector you will want to clean the oils off of the blank. Once that is done put it in a regular oven at 400 degrees for an hour to get rid of the brittleness.