Brake Rotors

glhs837

Power with Control
Slotted or drilled, the key thing is quality in the manufacturing process. Any bozo with a drill press can put holes in a rotor, making rotors with holes that work without eating pads or cracking, thats a bit harder.

As far as slotted eating pads, again, it depends on the quality. My car has slotted rotors as OEM, and the pads in there have been in for maybe 30K, and are doing fine, lots of life left.

But, all that aside, depending on your application, your best bet might be to just upgrade, if you can, to vented rotors over solid. Unless your really maxing out the stock system, that change should all you really need. All else being equal, the slotted or drilled rotors never have "more" stopping power over ones that dont, just that they dont lose under hard repeated applications.

Since this is a truck, we're not talking lots of threshold braking, but more of the down the mountian kinda thing. right?

EDIT: Looking it up, I see your truck came with vented rotors to start. In that case, Id lean towards these right here as the upgrade path for you.

POWERSLOT - Faster Stops Made Easier
 
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Chain729

CageKicker Extraordinaire
I've gone with EBC on both my trucks.. the dimpled (not drilled through) rotors and the Green Stuff pads. if you do a little searching on the internet you can find them for the same price or less than OEM.

EBC seems to have done their homework as far as the efficiency of dimpled, drilled and slotted brake rotors.. Slotted rotors seem to "shave" the pads more than cool them, and drilled through rotors lost some of their strength and actually warped worse than solid rotors etc .. read their studies on their website, it made sense to me, enough for me to buy their products.


BadGirl.. Greasemonkey extraordinaire!

Wow. Someone with correct info. :faint:

They warped the rotors because there's less metal. Less metal not only means less strength, but it also doesn't take as long to heat 'em up.

Just buy the factory one at Walmart or Advance. I think they only cost 3 bucks at either place.:shrug:

Not all filters are created equal grease monkey, you should know that. It's funny, but the Walmart SuperTech crap is actually built better than Fram.

Slotted or drilled, the key thing is quality in the manufacturing process. Any bozo with a drill press can put holes in a rotor, making rotors with holes that work without eating pads or cracking, thats a bit harder.

As far as slotted eating pads, again, it depends on the quality. My car has slotted rotors as OEM, and the pads in there have been in for maybe 30K, and are doing fine, lots of life left.

But, all that aside, depending on your application, your best bet might be to just upgrade, if you can, to vented rotors over solid. Unless your really maxing out the stock system, that change should all you really need. All else being equal, the slotted or drilled rotors never have "more" stopping power over ones that dont, just that they dont lose under hard repeated applications.

Since this is a truck, we're not talking lots of threshold braking, but more of the down the mountian kinda thing. right?

EDIT: Looking it up, I see your truck came with vented rotors to start. In that case, Id lean towards these right here as the upgrade path for you.

POWERSLOT - Faster Stops Made Easier

It's a design issue, not a craftsmanship issue. And you're using a vender/manufacturer website, from an industry well-known for scams, to prove a point.
 

glhs837

Power with Control
I'd venture to say design without craftsmanship is useless, and vice versa. Slotted and or drilled rotors can be made well, it requires both good design and manufacturing processes.

My point was that lots of "crossdrilled" rotors are just normal rotors with holes drilled into them, while OEM level makers take extra steps to mitigate the issues aftermarket parts have.

I did use powerslots web page mainly for ease of use, I know vendors can/will disseminate bad/misleading info, even powerslot does this, saying that directionality of the slots is important, when its not. Does that mean the product is bad, no, just that they use marketing, like anyone else.

I have not used thier products, as noted, my car has factory slotted rotors, but people who's opinion I do trust have recommended them.
 

Tomcat

Anytime
Just replaced pads and rotors on wifes SUV this week. Got them from Bees(NAPA) was about $400 for everything (ceramic pads) As several have pointed out, look for quality in drilled/slotted rotors. Lots of cheap ones out there thhat aren't worth s##t. Unless you're going racing (which you're not) I'd stick with standard rotors and ceramic pads. Just ordered ceramic pads for my car and got most of this info from automotive forums + I stayed at a Holiday Inn last night.
 

morningbell

hmmmmmm
if you are trailoring anything the last thing you want is solid, the heat warps em too fast...you could get away with either drilled or slotted, or both.
Also a good choice would be to go with ceramic pads, whuch would disipate heat as well :yay:

:hot:its so hot when you guys know how to fix stuff!
 

itsbob

I bowl overhand
CERAMIC PAD APPLICATIONS
Ceramic pads can be installed on any vehicle that is originally-equipped with OEM ceramic pads, or on vehicles that are equipped with Nonasbestos Organic (NAO) linings. Ceramic pads are NOT recommended to replace semi-metallic pads, especially on larger, heavier vehicles. On trucks and large SUVs, semi-metallic linings are typically needed to handle higher loads and braking temperatures.
 

Ponytail

New Member
I went with rotorpros.com rotors and their low dust pads on my '03 F250 4x4 ext cab long bed, w 100,000 miles on it. I couldn't be happier. $360, shipped to my door, drilled, slotted and new pads at all 4 corners.

This truck never stopped so well. Don't waste your money on ceramics unless you want more noise and a less effective braking. These trucks don't generate enough heat often enough to maintain the ceramic and keep them from glazing over.
 
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