Dryer Repair

[LtownTaxpayer]

I've had good luck with the troubleshooting hints and parts ordering from this website:

http://www.repairclinic.com/Shop-For-Parts/a8-x64756574/Duet-Dryer-Parts

Good luck!

Ltowntaxpayer

 

[black dog]

I would have started with the front panel, what does Google Say :shrug:

I would have started with schematics / wiring diagrams and a meter.

 

[Clem72]

I would have started with schematics / wiring diagrams and a meter.

Unless you feel like isolating/removing every component to check it out of circuit that isn't likely to be helpful for finding anything except blown resistors/fuses. The intermittent nature of the problem makes me think it more likely to be a bad cap, IC, or partially blown fuse.

 

[itsbob]

New front control panel is $100 +. Why are you replacing parts if you don't know what the problem is? Call a repair man. It's cheaper than this approach.

It's a dryer.. more times than not it's cheaper to buy a new one than call a repairman.

It's even cheaper to easter egg the problem (if you have the time) until you hit on what's causing the problem. Parts are cheap.. labor and travel are not.

 

[SoMdDude]

And go figure, the part is out of stock everywhere. That's pretty telling.

I just had to replace the motherboard in my fridge, couldn't find it anywhere until I found these guys!

Never knew they existed until a friend told me, waldorf and upper marlboro locations and they ship

https://www.tribles.com/

p.s. it was like walking into a costco or bjs of appliance and electronic parts! I went to the one in franconia va though while I was working during the day, glad I went there, almost dropped 1200 on a new fridge lol $150 was much cheaper

 

[itsbob]

Spending money to get it fixed FAR outweighs any conflicts with the wife who is losing patience with you trying to fix it and having to drag clothes to the laundromat.

This is half the fun.. the other half is being the hero when you finally do fix it.. being the MAN that can fix Anything!!

It kind of brings it's own rewards..

 

[PsyOps]

This is half the fun.. the other half is being the hero when you finally do fix it.. being the MAN that can fix Anything!!

It kind of brings it's own rewards..

 

[BadGirl]

This is half the fun.. the other half is being the hero when you finally do fix it.. being the MAN that can fix Anything!!

It kind of brings it's own rewards..

You fixed my dryer TWICE, fixed my KitchenAid stand mixer, and I'm sure a ton of other things that were broked. No wonder I love you!

 

[GWguy]

I proved over and again that I could fix anything. After a while, it was just taken for granted, and when I took too long in her mind, no amount of successful fixes could make up for the one 'unsuccessful', even her sowing surger. Ever try to repair one of those?? I did...

Now I have nothing to prove to anyone, WAY past that. I repair it because I WANT to repair it for myself. If I don't want to, it gets replaced or someone else can do it.

 

[Clem72]

I'm still waiting for someone to explain to me what a new $1200 dryer does that my $350 10 year old Maytag doesn't? Clothes get dry, don't come out wrinkled or covered in lint, so I have no idea how that could be improved.

 

[black dog]

Unless you feel like isolating/removing every component to check it out of circuit that isn't likely to be helpful for finding anything except blown resistors/fuses. The intermittent nature of the problem makes me think it more likely to be a bad cap, IC, or partially blown fuse.

Oh BS,. 20+ years working for Otis as a Union Journeyman Elevator Mechanic, I have a pretty good grip on my diagnostic skills on something as simple as a clothes dryer.
Most of the public has no idea how to read schematics or prints along with a meter.
They just change parts until they get to the bad part, or get frustrated and go buy a new appliance.

And what is a partially blown fuse ?? I've seen good ones and blown ones, but never a
partially blown fuse.

 

[Clem72]

Oh BS,. 20+ years working for Otis as a Union Journeyman Elevator Mechanic, I have a pretty good grip on my diagnostic skills on something as simple as a clothes dryer.
Most of the public has no idea how to read schematics or prints along with a meter.
They just change parts until they get to the bad part, or get frustrated and go buy a new appliance.

And what is a partially blown fuse ?? I've seen good ones and blown ones, but never a
partially blown fuse.

You want genuine answers to those questions, or you just looking for a fight? If the former I will try to clarify.

If you have 20 years of experience working with electronics, then my comment isn't aimed at you. If someone knows just enough to be able to identify components and plug the meter leads into the right holes, then they may incorrectly think they have identified a problem when the schematic says their prodding a 10k resister and their meter tells 'em it's providing 5.5k of resistance.

As for partially blown fuse, I should have been more specific. We are talking about a dryer, and as such talking about a thermal fuse. Thermal fuses can be faulty (usually after many heating cycles) when the spring mechanism doesn't full disengage the circuit when the fusible alloy melts. Or they can be partially blown when cooling allows the contacts to come back together.

 

[black dog]

I'm certainly not picking g a fight, normally when any type of fuse fails it is designed to fail in the open position. If the bimetal strip is damaged or fatigued it will generally fail the next time a normal load has been turned on.
Like a set of contacts that are worn out or damaged, they will quickly fail when loads are applied.
Most of what causes a intermittent problem with things like a dryer would be a loose connection, bad solder joint, one of many things on a circuit board and on and on. But like both of us have said, Its above most folks. Electronics and electricity is a mystery to most.

 

[PsyOps]

I'm still waiting for someone to explain to me what a new $1200 dryer does that my $350 10 year old Maytag doesn't? Clothes get dry, don't come out wrinkled or covered in lint, so I have no idea how that could be improved.

Capacity?

 

[PsyOps]

Oh BS,. 20+ years working for Otis as a Union Journeyman Elevator Mechanic, I have a pretty good grip on my diagnostic skills on something as simple as a clothes dryer.
Most of the public has no idea how to read schematics or prints along with a meter.
They just change parts until they get to the bad part, or get frustrated and go buy a new appliance.

And what is a partially blown fuse ?? I've seen good ones and blown ones, but never a
partially blown fuse.

Well, I'm sure you've heard of 'slow blowing fuse'. I'm a network engineer and can troubleshoot my share of problems. With this particular problem, because it was intermittent (I could run a load, then the next load the dryer wouldn't run. I'd unplug the dryer for a few hours and it would work again for one or two loads, then quit again, start process over) told me either thermistor was going bad or a component (typically a relay or capacitor) in the control board was going bad. So I decided to just take the most-obvious-to-the-least-obvious approach rather than spend hours fault isolating. Looking back, I probably should have gotten the schematic out and gone that route. But I was already into by then.

Everyone has their way of doing things; and if it's different than yours, why is that a big deal? I did not intend this thread to become a debate about how to troubleshoot electrical problems. I simply was asking for information/help; which only a couple of people were. I just don't get peoples' propensity to feel they have to use even the most benign of situations to always prove how right they are.

 

[chernmax]

RepairClinic.com

I'm no appliance expert, but I have successfully repaired my washer twice and dryer twice in 13 years with this super helpful repair site that helps you troubleshoot, then shows the correct parts to replace.

http://www.repairclinic.com/Shop-For-Parts/a8b5-x64756574/Duet-Whirlpool-Dryer-Parts

 

[black dog]

Well, I'm sure you've heard of 'slow blowing fuse'. I'm a network engineer and can troubleshoot my share of problems. With this particular problem, because it was intermittent IP (I could run a load, then the next load the dryer wouldn't run. I'd unplug the dryer for a few hours and it would work again for one or two loads, then quit again, start process over) told me either thermistor was going bad or a component (typically a relay or capacitor) in the control board was going bad. So I decided to just take the most-obvious-to-the-least-obvious approach rather than spend hours fault isolating. Looking back, I probably should have gotten the schematic out and gone that route. But I was already into by then.

Everyone has their way of doing things; and if it's different than yours, why is that a big deal? I did not intend this thread to become a debate about how to troubleshoot electrical problems. I simply was asking for information/help; which only a couple of people were. I just don't get peoples' propensity to feel they have to use even the most benign of situations to always prove how right they are.

Lol, I don't think you Sir understand what a slow blow fuse is.

A slow blow fuse is different from a fast acting fuse in its capability to withstand transient pulse currents, i.e., it can withstand the surge current upon power-on/off, thus ensuring the equipment works normally. Therefore, slow blow fuses are often called time-delay fuses.

A fuse is either open or closed or good or bad. It's there as a protection.
I'm not busting anyone's balls here, but as a network engineer do you guess before you start replacing parts at random or do you preform good diagnostic skills and just replace what's bad.

 

[PeoplesElbow]

Lol, I don't think you Sir understand what a slow blow fuse is.

A slow blow fuse is different from a fast acting fuse in its capability to withstand transient pulse currents, i.e., it can withstand the surge current upon power-on/off, thus ensuring the equipment works normally. Therefore, slow blow fuses are often called time-delay fuses.

A fuse is either open or closed or good or bad. It's there as a protection.
I'm not busting anyone's balls here, but as a network engineer do you guess before you start replacing parts at random or do you preform good diagnostic skills and just replace what's bad.

When time is money and there is a fairly easy/cheap replacement to a likely cause to a problem sometimes it is better simply to take a quick stab at it. Part of being a good engineer is also knowing when its just better to throw some duct tape on something and go.

 

[black dog]

When time is money and there is a fairly easy/cheap replacement to a likely cause to a problem sometimes it is better simply to take a quick stab at it. Part of being a good engineer is also knowing when its just better to throw some duct tape on something and go.

So when this piece of equipment fails again with the duct tape repair do you fix it correctly the second time it fails? Or the third time ?
Since it's time and money, would it not be cheaper and safer to correctly do the repairs the first time ?
I know this, long term lack of maintenance and or poor maintenance always ends up with catastrophic failure in equipment.
Think about that the next time you you are in a elevator much less a plane.

 

[Chris0nllyn]

I'm certainly not picking g a fight, normally when any type of fuse fails it is designed to fail in the open position. If the bimetal strip is damaged or fatigued it will generally fail the next time a normal load has been turned on.
Like a set of contacts that are worn out or damaged, they will quickly fail when loads are applied.
Most of what causes a intermittent problem with things like a dryer would be a loose connection, bad solder joint, one of many things on a circuit board and on and on. But like both of us have said, Its above most folks. Electronics and electricity is a mystery to most.

Lol, I don't think you Sir understand what a slow blow fuse is.

A slow blow fuse is different from a fast acting fuse in its capability to withstand transient pulse currents, i.e., it can withstand the surge current upon power-on/off, thus ensuring the equipment works normally. Therefore, slow blow fuses are often called time-delay fuses.

A fuse is either open or closed or good or bad. It's there as a protection.
I'm not busting anyone's balls here, but as a network engineer do you guess before you start replacing parts at random or do you preform good diagnostic skills and just replace what's bad.

A fuse's function is protection, but that doesn't mean it's not open or closed or good or bad.

A fuse is normally closed, as in take your multimeter and measure the resistance across it. If it is blown, then it's inherently open, thus having an infinite resistance across it when measured.