Jumpstart terminals.

[Foxhound]

Even pavement, I shouldn't have to go intro neutral to keep from moving, correct?

Absolutely correct.

 

[BS Gal]

If you don't know the answer to that question you should sell the bike tomorrow.

I know the answer to that question. The bike is going in tomorrow. He'll get it fixed or replaced. The bike sat for a year and a half before I bought it.

 

[Pete]

I know the answer to that question. The bike is going in tomorrow. He'll get it fixed or replaced. The bike sat for a year and a half before I bought it.

And it has been doing this for months, yet you ride it anyway.

 

[BS Gal]

And it has been doing this for months, yet you ride it anyway.

I'm done. Good night.

 

[Dougstermd]

I realize that, Pete, but when I had the clutch in on even pavement, I should be stopped, correct? I should not move. Clutch in. No brake. Even pavement, I shouldn't have to go intro neutral to keep from moving, correct?

it is not a bad clutch I am certain of that. adjustment or somfin

 

[BS Gal]

it is not a bad clutch I am certain of that. adjustment or somfin

Bad clutch. Entire thing has to be replaced. Bike guy looked at it today. He found the oil leak, also. Minor. $20.

 

[Pete]

Bad clutch. Entire thing has to be replaced. Bike guy looked at it today. He found the oil leak, also. Minor. $20.

If the bike is rolling under power when you have the clutch lever pulled all the way in the clutch is not disengaging. That is an adjustment, stretched cable, or if it is a hydraulic clutch a bad cylinder or fluid problem.

If the clutch slips when the clutch lever is out and the engine races but the bike does not move, or move in correlation to the engine RPM then the clutch is in fact bad and needs to be replaced.

 

[BS Gal]

If the bike is rolling under power when you have the clutch lever pulled all the way in the clutch is not disengaging. That is an adjustment, stretched cable, or if it is a hydraulic clutch a bad cylinder or fluid problem.

If the clutch slips when the clutch lever is out and the engine races but the bike does not move, or move in correlation to the engine RPM then the clutch is in fact bad and needs to be replaced.

DR talked to him. I did not. Good news is all fixes (particularly the oil leak) are reasonably priced and much less than what we anticipated.

 

[Pete]

DR talked to him. I did not. Good news is all fixes (particularly the oil leak) are reasonably priced and much less than what we anticipated.

Do it

 

[BS Gal]

Do it

It's being done. Back tire being replaced when it comes in, probably this week. I should be good to go in a few weeks.

 

[desertrat]

If you don't know the answer to that question you should sell the bike tomorrow.

Rhetorical perhaps?

 

[desertrat]

If the bike is rolling under power when you have the clutch lever pulled all the way in the clutch is not disengaging. That is an adjustment, stretched cable, or if it is a hydraulic clutch a bad cylinder or fluid problem.

If the clutch slips when the clutch lever is out and the engine races but the bike does not move, or move in correlation to the engine RPM then the clutch is in fact bad and needs to be replaced.

Not hydraulic and the first thing I tried was clutch adjustment. Didn't work. Warped disks will cause incompleted disengaging so thats why it went to the shop. Guy says its worn, springs compressed and it was probably slipping at speed, since the plates are blue. New clutch on the way. I'm guessing, hoping actually, that he missed that they may be warped.

 

[aps45819]

I'm guessing, hoping actually, that he missed that they may be warped.

Why would that matter if he's replacing them anyway? A replacement clutch is the plates and springs.

 

[desertrat]

Why would that matter if he's replacing them anyway? A replacement clutch is the plates and springs.

It would matter because that's what I think was causing the problem. My world would come apart if I was wrong.

 

[itsbob]

So here's what I did. I ran 12 gauge wire from the battery to the left saddlebag. I connected them to covered posts. I haven't mounted the posts yet as I'm not sure where I want them permanently. Anyway they work well. I rode to Solomons on a partial charge. Needed to jump start it. On the way home it stalled out at a stop sign. I connected the everstart to the terminals and finished my ride home. Seem to work well Just need to figure out where I want to mount them.

I actually like this idea, and was contemplating it myself. Battery is buried under the tank, and would have to dig out the battery to be able to get cables on to it. I've only killed the battery once, when I left the XM on, but nice to be ready for the next time.

Anything else needed between the battery and the posts? Fuze, relay?? When you mount the posts, how are you going to insulate them from the frame?

 

[aps45819]

I actually like this idea, and was contemplating it myself. Battery is buried under the tank, and would have to dig out the battery to be able to get cables on to it. I've only killed the battery once, when I left the XM on, but nice to be ready for the next time.

Anything else needed between the battery and the posts? Fuze, relay?? When you mount the posts, how are you going to insulate them from the frame?

Wire one of these directly to your battery. Run it someplace you can get to easily.
Use this and a couple of aligator clips to make your Jumper cable.

 

[Foxhound]

Aps' Idea may be a little more elegant than mine. The posts I purchased at West Marine are already insulated. I just need to decide where I want them permanently. I am leaning towards the backrest below the sissybar bag. It's been working well for me. Since the charging system isn't working properly I am only using the bike for short trips to the store. Charging it after every ride. I may move to a molex connector later. I like the marine power posts because of their corrosion resistance. I have also thought about a cigarette lighter style connection. This would allow you to plug in accessories.

 

[itsbob]

Wire one of these directly to your battery. Run it someplace you can get to easily.
Use this and a couple of aligator clips to make your Jumper cable.

I can get a pair of cables with the power adaptor plug ins.. but what I'm looking for is a set up for when I'm out riding with no bags, no tools etc.. and end up needing a jump from a passer-by, I can just use a normal set of jumper cables, and back on the road again.

 

[Pete]

Aps' Idea may be a little more elegant than mine. The posts I purchased at West Marine are already insulated. I just need to decide where I want them permanently. I am leaning towards the backrest below the sissybar bag. It's been working well for me. Since the charging system isn't working properly I am only using the bike for short trips to the store. Charging it after every ride. I may move to a molex connector later. I like the marine power posts because of their corrosion resistance. I have also thought about a cigarette lighter style connection. This would allow you to plug in accessories.

How much is it to just fix your bike?

 

[aps45819]

I can get a pair of cables with the power adaptor plug ins.. but what I'm looking for is a set up for when I'm out riding with no bags, no tools etc.. and end up needing a jump from a passer-by, I can just use a normal set of jumper cables, and back on the road again.

Fox can't because of how he needs to access his battery.
Most owners manuals tell you not to jump your bike. Using "normal" jumper cables can allow to much current flow and might fry your electrical system. A homemade set of 10-12 ga jumpers will limit current to your bike.