Motor building...
- Thread starter Gilligan
- Start date
A favorite of mine too. I've been offered a couple that were really rough...but the project plate is a mite too full right now.
I'm just now puttting the final touches on an older 302 build...one that is strictly a high-performance motor, to go in a 16' Donzi. I have others lying around...what direction were you planning to go with the engine for the F1?
I'm just now puttting the final touches on an older 302 build...one that is strictly a high-performance motor, to go in a 16' Donzi. I have others lying around...what direction were you planning to go with the engine for the F1?
Pre 55 ........ nice
[if you don't know in 1955 Ford went to the 'dogleg' windshield]
a 302 / 351 would be cheaper .... personally I like the Classic FE Engines
Y Blocks - 292, 312 ...
332. 352. 390 ...
The truck is already missing the original engine. It has a 351 Cleveland 2V in it now coupled with a C-4 auto. Problem is I don't know if the engine is any good. I don't want to race it but don't want to be embarased on the street either. Does the 351 C 2V have any desirable traits for modifying if it is indeed a good engine? Will the C-4 hold up to street abuse? I'd like to have no less than 400hp when I'm done. I'm pushing it into the garage this spring to start tearing it down to the frame.
I'll say! The Cleveland is head and shoulders superior to anything in the wheezer family (289/302/351W) when it comes to building a performance engine, IMO. I build more Clevelands than anything else; have a 408C in the works right now, matter of fact. The canted-valve large-port Cleveland heads bear little/no resemblance to the ancient Windsor head configuration. The valves alone tell the story; the C 2V heads have 2.05" intakes and 1.64" exhausts...both bigger than what you can get in the biggest of the aftermarket windsor heads from the likes of AFR and similar.
The C-4 can be made to withstand a lot but you would be far better off with a C-6. The C-6 with an R6 servo upgrade and the HD (truck or Lincoln) 5-disk clutch will withstand well over 500 ft-lbs of torque..
Well that's good news. I thought since it was the 2V and not the 4V it might not be as ready for hp increases. I'll need to see if this is a good engine, (I'm told it may have frozen and cracked a few years ago.) If it's good, what would it take (cost) to make a reliable 400 hp engine out of it? I know that can depend on a lot of things but is there a ballpark figure you can offer?
Ballpark estimates are always tough. Without know anything about it but assuming a complete array of machine-shop services would be required..I would figure between 3000 and 4000 for a ready-to-crank engine suitably dressed up and putting out roughly 400 HP at something around 5800-6000 RPM.
That said, for something as heavy as that pickup, I'd be focused more on a high torque output, peaking around 4000 or even less. Might end up with "only" 330-350 HP but hat would move that beast better than a high HP engine that scrificed low-end torque to get bigger HP numbers. You butt-dyno would like the torquey engine better.
I've managed to get there for less...but had a good foundation to work with.
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I thought this thread was titled "motor boating".
Now, all I can think about is blowing raspberries between boobies.
And MrsToxick won't be home for a couple hours.
Can't help ya. I got nothin'...
What's a Mexican block? Was it cast in Mexico? Anything special about it?
Beefier in several places (main bearing caps in particular) and a higher quality casting pour all around. The boring machine loves those blocks. A general rulle of thumb that racers have been using for many years is that to go over 400HP with a 302, you better use one of the Mexican castings as your build foundation.
How do you know if you have one? Any clear markings?
P.S. I saw your post with the Ford engine and transaxle. I keep thinking how cool that would be in the bed of an old F-100 to make a mid-engine pick-up. That was until I looked up some prices on those set-ups.
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That ZF transaxle alone goes for 7 to 8 grand in good running condition.
The Mexican blocks are fairly easy to spot. First..the block casting number above the starter has a "Z" in the third postion..like D1ZE, for example. The US blocks all have an A or a T instead of the Z. Then there are the unique bumps..casting spru bumps sticking out each side of the front of the engine. None of the US blocks have those. Finally, there is indeed "hecho in Mexico" cast on the bottom surface of the lifter valley..but of course that requires removing the intake manifold to see.
They are most commonly found in 70-73 Broncos, pickups and vans that had the 302.