What Dems is referring too is a dog who consistently BITES her. If he's doing it now, and gets away with it, it will get worse. My method is swift, and only needs to be done a few times at most to get the point across NO TEETH TO HUMAN SKIN EVER NEVER NO WAY. Bite inhibition is done by the mother, and also by the littermates, and is NOT cruel. I think Dems is passive, and as such if this were a bigger dog, she would be in real trouble. As it stands, he's a little dog, but those teeth are SHARP, and bite inhibition needs to be enforced from the beginning. With my puppies i do it from the time they begin to mouth me, when they are just getting teeth, by just making it uncomfortable - squeezing the upper or lower jaw each time they bite, often with not a sound, just the act itself. Once this is established, they rarely if ever actually bite me again. I explain this to the new owers, and go as far as have them put their hands INTO their bowls when they eat to maintain that level of respect. But i have BIG doggies, if i did some of the choke chain pop corrections on little ones I have to do on big ones the little ones would fling through the window
FWIW, I NEVER smack them, that's just not effective (in my book) they become face shy if you whack them, and my show dogs just can't be like that. My AHHH AHHHHH is often enough to elicit the correct response, but with dog training, it's all about TIMING, like horselady said, you have about a 3-5 second window for them to actually relate the consequence to the action. if you miss that, your correction is for naught. Same thing with potty training. Don't whack them for peeing, just snatch and run, put them out when they're doing it if you catch them. If you whack them for doing it, or drag them back to it, they begin to think the actual act is what got them into trouble and will hide it, or hold it until you aren't looking if that makes sense.
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