KingFish
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First a list of what you will need:
• T8 and T10 Torx Screwdrivers
• Flat Head Screwdriver
• 8 M5-.80 x 10 Machine Screws #138433
• 16 #10 Flat Washers – Nylon #139065
• 16 5mm Flat Washers – Metal #138319
• Arctic Silver thermal compound
• Arcticlean or isopropyl alcohol. (90% or better is recommended)
• Q-Tips and lint free cloth
• CD/DVD spindle cover
• Sandwich plastic bags
• 60 to 90 minutes.
(part numbers are from Lowes)
Note: Drilling "may" be required for the screws to fit. (drilling in the metal casing not your motherboard)
How to Protect Your Warranty Seal Sticker
You will need a hairdryer or heat gun (on low setting) and a piece of wax paper.
Very simple!. Heat the sticker until the glue has become warm enough separate from the console without damaging the sticker. Apply it to the wax paper. Before you reapply the sticker. Use the same technique removing it from the wax paper. Before pulling it off to reapply to your system.
Taking your Xbox 360 Apart
You will need now to take your 360 apart. There are various guides for doing this. This can be very tricky if you are not using the right tools to open it.
The most proficient way of taking your system apart 'on the cheap' is using an old CD/DVD spindle cover. What you will want to do is cut the spindle into a tool using the small teeth on the bottom to snap off the locks on the back of the system. Before doing any of this here are the steps you need to take.
• Remove your hard drive (if applicable)
• Remove your faceplate
• Remove the upper and lower grill pieces
• Pop the locks in the back using the spindle tool
• Unsnap the prongs in the front holding that side of the casing and remove the bottom.
After removing the bottom of the casing, you will expose the screws on the bottom. You will need a T8 and T10 Torx drivers to remove all of these screws.
• Remove 3 (T8) screws in the front holding the RF Module; after these are removed the RF Module just pulls out.
• Remove 6 (T10) screws holding the top of the casing. This will now expose you to the motherboard.
• Remove your DVD Drive by pulling the power and sata connections from the back of the drive.
• Remove the white shroud which directs air flow.
• Remove the fans, by unclipping the power connection and carefully pulling it from the case (requires very little force pulling the metal casing up from the fan)
There will be a total of 6 (T10) long screws which hold the top of the casing. 9 Smaller (T10) screws which hold components from the motherboard, and 8 (T8) screws which are associated with the X-Clamp.
• Remove the remaining screws from the bottom of the casing.
Carefully slide your motherboard from the metal casing. Have a small area with a towel or blanket to rest your motherboard on while performing this fix. It may be a good idea to have some sort of anti static wrist band on, or even an anti static mat.
• Place your motherboard top side down onto your working area; you should now see the X Clamps.
Removing the X Clamps
Warning: You CAN and WILL permanently damage your system if you are not VERY careful with removing these. Surrounding these X Clamps mounts of delicate and sensitive hardware. If you don't think you can remove these clamps without damaging something around them, STOP NOW. Close up your system replace the sticker and send it back to Microsoft.
What you need: a flat head screwdriver.
Investigating the X Clamps you will see they have a "V" looking shape that clips down onto the screws from the heat sink. Looking at the Clamps from the angle you should notice there are small parts of the "V" that stick out on both sides. Place the screwdriver between that and the top of the clamp, and carefully rotate the driver (not applying much force) to release the clamps.
You will need to unsnap 3 of the legs before you can remove the clamps properly. When unsnapping the 3rd, Try keeping a hand on the clamp to make sure it doesn’t jump off and damage anything around. After removing both clamps. Flip the motherboard over and you should be able to pull the heat sinks up exposing the CPU processor and GPU.
Cleaning the Heat sinks
You can use a credit card, putty knife, or something with a flat even surface to scrape as much old thermal paste from your heat sinks as possible. Apply the Arctic clean or Alcohol onto your cloth. And keep rubbing the sink until the entire old compound is completely removed. You may need to scrape it off a few more times afterwards.
Once you have both heat sinks cleaned and prepped:
You now need to clean your CPU and GPU. Be very delicate with these. Don't be afraid to apply a small amount of force to get some of the stubborn compound off. But don't go to hard on it either. You will probably notice there is compound that has been squished out amongst other parts of the unit, you will need to clean it off. It is a long painstaking process but take your time. Be gentle.
• Remove the screws going into the heat sinks. A pair of pliers will do. I'd recommend using an adjustable wrench or pliers.
• * Check and make sure your screws will go through the metal casing without drilling if you haven’t already *
• Replace your motherboard into your metal casing. Do not screw anything down yet.
TAKE NOTE: AFTER CLEANING YOUR HEATSINKS AND CHIPS DO NOT! TOUCH THEM WITH YOUR BARE FINGERS IF YOU ACCIDENTLY DO NO SWEAT JUST BE SURE TO WIPE IT OFF WITH ALCOHOL
Applying your thermal compound
Apply a VERY small amount of the compound to the die of the CPU or GPU whichever is applicable for the one you're currently working on. Put a finger into a sandwich plastic bag. Lightly spread the compound out. And the best way to fill in everything is just to very lightly tap your finger across. Remember you're only going to need a VERY SMALL dab of thermal compound. Because what you're doing with this compound is nothing more than filling microscopic imperfections in your sink. So your CPU processor and GPU can transfer the heat more proficiently. Once you have done this. Before you put your heat sinks back on. Take a small tab of your thermal compound just a touch is good enough. Rub it into the area (using a finger in a plastic bag) where the sink meets the die of the cpu/gpu. Then wipe it to a haze. After you've got it on just take your cloth and wipe it off.
Screws Preparation
Take your screws put 1 metal washer on followed by the nylon washer (you'll want the nylon washers between the metal and your motherboard ~ put in that order or else you will BRICK your Xbox 360!!)
The reason for these washers is spacing!. Repeat the step to all 8 of your screws. At this point you should have 2 washers on each screw. 1 nylon, 1 metal. Push the screws through the bottom of your metal casing and through your motherboard. Its a good idea to put a piece of tape over each screw to keep it them from falling out when you flip over your system to start the screws.
After you've got 2 washers on each screw. they're through the board and taped down. Time to put more washers on!. Apply a nylon washer down then a metal washer. This is a crappy demonstration of how it should be the, the | are nylon washers and || are metal washers. it should look something like this.
Outside of metal casing | || (metal washer touching your screw) Inside | || (metal washer touching your heat sink when you apply it)
Once you've done this. Line up one of your heat sinks with your screws. Holding the heat sink onto the screws. Remove 1 piece of tape. Thread the screw. Once threaded. Remove another... etc... Repeat the step. You've got all 4 threaded?... Tighten them down. Snuggly and evenly. When doing this you'll want to tighten them in a star pattern to make sure the force is even. Repeat with your other heat sink.
Do not over tighten them. This just puts more stress on your motherboard (which can also crack or worst, break it). Which is the main reason you’re doing this fix to begin with?
Replace the remaining screws in the bottom of your motherboard. and reassemble your system. After you've got it all done. And hooked up you should see the beautiful glow of the green ring of light. If you haven't. You CAN do the bake trick and it WILL work. But this will not mean your system is fixed. You will only get temporary enjoyment before the lights haunt you again. So if you've been able to do this fix. Without having to drill holes in your metal casing. Keep a close eye on your X Clamps. If the red lights come back again. You can try re-snugging your heat sink screws, or rebaking the system. If all else fails. Disassemble. Reapply the X Clamps. And put your warranty sticker back on.
First a list of what you will need:
• T8 and T10 Torx Screwdrivers
• Flat Head Screwdriver
• 8 M5-.80 x 10 Machine Screws #138433
• 16 #10 Flat Washers – Nylon #139065
• 16 5mm Flat Washers – Metal #138319
• Arctic Silver thermal compound
• Arcticlean or isopropyl alcohol. (90% or better is recommended)
• Q-Tips and lint free cloth
• CD/DVD spindle cover
• Sandwich plastic bags
• 60 to 90 minutes.
(part numbers are from Lowes)
Note: Drilling "may" be required for the screws to fit. (drilling in the metal casing not your motherboard)
How to Protect Your Warranty Seal Sticker
You will need a hairdryer or heat gun (on low setting) and a piece of wax paper.
Very simple!. Heat the sticker until the glue has become warm enough separate from the console without damaging the sticker. Apply it to the wax paper. Before you reapply the sticker. Use the same technique removing it from the wax paper. Before pulling it off to reapply to your system.
Taking your Xbox 360 Apart
You will need now to take your 360 apart. There are various guides for doing this. This can be very tricky if you are not using the right tools to open it.
The most proficient way of taking your system apart 'on the cheap' is using an old CD/DVD spindle cover. What you will want to do is cut the spindle into a tool using the small teeth on the bottom to snap off the locks on the back of the system. Before doing any of this here are the steps you need to take.
• Remove your hard drive (if applicable)
• Remove your faceplate
• Remove the upper and lower grill pieces
• Pop the locks in the back using the spindle tool
• Unsnap the prongs in the front holding that side of the casing and remove the bottom.
After removing the bottom of the casing, you will expose the screws on the bottom. You will need a T8 and T10 Torx drivers to remove all of these screws.
• Remove 3 (T8) screws in the front holding the RF Module; after these are removed the RF Module just pulls out.
• Remove 6 (T10) screws holding the top of the casing. This will now expose you to the motherboard.
• Remove your DVD Drive by pulling the power and sata connections from the back of the drive.
• Remove the white shroud which directs air flow.
• Remove the fans, by unclipping the power connection and carefully pulling it from the case (requires very little force pulling the metal casing up from the fan)
There will be a total of 6 (T10) long screws which hold the top of the casing. 9 Smaller (T10) screws which hold components from the motherboard, and 8 (T8) screws which are associated with the X-Clamp.
• Remove the remaining screws from the bottom of the casing.
Carefully slide your motherboard from the metal casing. Have a small area with a towel or blanket to rest your motherboard on while performing this fix. It may be a good idea to have some sort of anti static wrist band on, or even an anti static mat.
• Place your motherboard top side down onto your working area; you should now see the X Clamps.
Removing the X Clamps
Warning: You CAN and WILL permanently damage your system if you are not VERY careful with removing these. Surrounding these X Clamps mounts of delicate and sensitive hardware. If you don't think you can remove these clamps without damaging something around them, STOP NOW. Close up your system replace the sticker and send it back to Microsoft.
What you need: a flat head screwdriver.
Investigating the X Clamps you will see they have a "V" looking shape that clips down onto the screws from the heat sink. Looking at the Clamps from the angle you should notice there are small parts of the "V" that stick out on both sides. Place the screwdriver between that and the top of the clamp, and carefully rotate the driver (not applying much force) to release the clamps.
You will need to unsnap 3 of the legs before you can remove the clamps properly. When unsnapping the 3rd, Try keeping a hand on the clamp to make sure it doesn’t jump off and damage anything around. After removing both clamps. Flip the motherboard over and you should be able to pull the heat sinks up exposing the CPU processor and GPU.
Cleaning the Heat sinks
You can use a credit card, putty knife, or something with a flat even surface to scrape as much old thermal paste from your heat sinks as possible. Apply the Arctic clean or Alcohol onto your cloth. And keep rubbing the sink until the entire old compound is completely removed. You may need to scrape it off a few more times afterwards.
Once you have both heat sinks cleaned and prepped:
You now need to clean your CPU and GPU. Be very delicate with these. Don't be afraid to apply a small amount of force to get some of the stubborn compound off. But don't go to hard on it either. You will probably notice there is compound that has been squished out amongst other parts of the unit, you will need to clean it off. It is a long painstaking process but take your time. Be gentle.
• Remove the screws going into the heat sinks. A pair of pliers will do. I'd recommend using an adjustable wrench or pliers.
• * Check and make sure your screws will go through the metal casing without drilling if you haven’t already *
• Replace your motherboard into your metal casing. Do not screw anything down yet.
TAKE NOTE: AFTER CLEANING YOUR HEATSINKS AND CHIPS DO NOT! TOUCH THEM WITH YOUR BARE FINGERS IF YOU ACCIDENTLY DO NO SWEAT JUST BE SURE TO WIPE IT OFF WITH ALCOHOL
Applying your thermal compound
Apply a VERY small amount of the compound to the die of the CPU or GPU whichever is applicable for the one you're currently working on. Put a finger into a sandwich plastic bag. Lightly spread the compound out. And the best way to fill in everything is just to very lightly tap your finger across. Remember you're only going to need a VERY SMALL dab of thermal compound. Because what you're doing with this compound is nothing more than filling microscopic imperfections in your sink. So your CPU processor and GPU can transfer the heat more proficiently. Once you have done this. Before you put your heat sinks back on. Take a small tab of your thermal compound just a touch is good enough. Rub it into the area (using a finger in a plastic bag) where the sink meets the die of the cpu/gpu. Then wipe it to a haze. After you've got it on just take your cloth and wipe it off.
Screws Preparation
Take your screws put 1 metal washer on followed by the nylon washer (you'll want the nylon washers between the metal and your motherboard ~ put in that order or else you will BRICK your Xbox 360!!)
The reason for these washers is spacing!. Repeat the step to all 8 of your screws. At this point you should have 2 washers on each screw. 1 nylon, 1 metal. Push the screws through the bottom of your metal casing and through your motherboard. Its a good idea to put a piece of tape over each screw to keep it them from falling out when you flip over your system to start the screws.
After you've got 2 washers on each screw. they're through the board and taped down. Time to put more washers on!. Apply a nylon washer down then a metal washer. This is a crappy demonstration of how it should be the, the | are nylon washers and || are metal washers. it should look something like this.
Outside of metal casing | || (metal washer touching your screw) Inside | || (metal washer touching your heat sink when you apply it)
Once you've done this. Line up one of your heat sinks with your screws. Holding the heat sink onto the screws. Remove 1 piece of tape. Thread the screw. Once threaded. Remove another... etc... Repeat the step. You've got all 4 threaded?... Tighten them down. Snuggly and evenly. When doing this you'll want to tighten them in a star pattern to make sure the force is even. Repeat with your other heat sink.
Do not over tighten them. This just puts more stress on your motherboard (which can also crack or worst, break it). Which is the main reason you’re doing this fix to begin with?
Replace the remaining screws in the bottom of your motherboard. and reassemble your system. After you've got it all done. And hooked up you should see the beautiful glow of the green ring of light. If you haven't. You CAN do the bake trick and it WILL work. But this will not mean your system is fixed. You will only get temporary enjoyment before the lights haunt you again. So if you've been able to do this fix. Without having to drill holes in your metal casing. Keep a close eye on your X Clamps. If the red lights come back again. You can try re-snugging your heat sink screws, or rebaking the system. If all else fails. Disassemble. Reapply the X Clamps. And put your warranty sticker back on.
