Smokeless Engine Oil? REALLY?

[ArkRescue]

that and with a hoist the average backyard mechanic can do a swap on a saturday, fine tune things on a sunday and be back on the road monday morning.

I checked Brandywine's online parts locator and it said there were no 5.7L engines available. I'll call them to check.

I was thinking to ask someone on the forum that I know of that fiddles with engines to see if he might want to make some money on the side to do an engine swap for me, if I go the used route.

Scares me to think of a used engine, but since I don't use that vehicle to commute to work anymore, the engine I get for it only has to be able to handle maybe 1 or 2k miles a year. So if it already has 100-150k miles on it, I guess that's not too bad?

If I can get a new engine for $2k, and a used one is going to be over $600 - then I may as well spring for a new one and KNOW it will last, as opposed to HOPING the used one will last.

 

[bcp]

I checked Brandywine's online parts locator and it said there were no 5.7L engines available. I'll call them to check.

I was thinking to ask someone on the forum that I know of that fiddles with engines to see if he might want to make some money on the side to do an engine swap for me, if I go the used route.

Scares me to think of a used engine, but since I don't use that vehicle to commute to work anymore, the engine I get for it only has to be able to handle maybe 1 or 2k miles a year. So if it already has 100-150k miles on it, I guess that's not too bad?

If I can get a new engine for $2k, and a used one is going to be over $600 - then I may as well spring for a new one and KNOW it will last, as opposed to HOPING the used one will last.

There is a company that goes by the name of Jasper, they sell remanufactured engines. If it is the rings that are causing the smoke you could get by with just getting a short block from them, get your heads worked over at a shop, (valves ground, guides replaced, shaved etc...) then put all your old stuff like power steering, ac, alt etc.. on the new engine.
that should give you a couple hundred thousand more miles if the truck is in good shape otherwise.

 

[Crewdawg141]

I checked Brandywine's online parts locator and it said there were no 5.7L engines available. I'll call them to check.

I was thinking to ask someone on the forum that I know of that fiddles with engines to see if he might want to make some money on the side to do an engine swap for me, if I go the used route.

Scares me to think of a used engine, but since I don't use that vehicle to commute to work anymore, the engine I get for it only has to be able to handle maybe 1 or 2k miles a year. So if it already has 100-150k miles on it, I guess that's not too bad?

If I can get a new engine for $2k, and a used one is going to be over $600 - then I may as well spring for a new one and KNOW it will last, as opposed to HOPING the used one will last.

What year is your truck? You say that it is a 5.7L (350), they are common engines but the year helps as there were Vortec and non-Vortec engines. I have a short block that came from a 99 GMC Suburban that never smoked when I pulled it, the truck had 108000 miles on it when pulled. It could use a simple cleaning and have the upper end reinstalled.

 

[ArkRescue]

What year is your truck? You say that it is a 5.7L (350), they are common engines but the year helps as there were Vortec and non-Vortec engines. I have a short block that came from a 99 GMC Suburban that never smoked when I pulled it, the truck had 108000 miles on it when pulled. It could use a simple cleaning and have the upper end reinstalled.

1994 Chevrolet Blazer 4x4 Silverado 1500 (2 door short wheel base)

 

[Crewdawg141]

1994 Chevrolet Blazer 4x4 Silverado 1500 (2 door short wheel base)

Hmm, so you should have 350 that is running a TBI setup.

 

[Crewdawg141]

1994 Chevrolet Blazer 4x4 Silverado 1500 (2 door short wheel base)

The reason why you are going to run into some issues with the finding of your engine is the change to the Vortec line of engines in 1996. You can drop in a newer engine but you will also need to add a different computer to control a 1996 and up 350.

 

[ArkRescue]

The reason why you are going to run into some issues with the finding of your engine is the change to the Vortec line of engines in 1996. You can drop in a newer engine but you will also need to add a different computer to control a 1996 and up 350.

I do understand there is a difference - comes up when I try to get codes for issues that crop up via engine lights). I am told that 1994/1995 gives minimal info. via codes and 1996 + are more detailed. So that would obviously have something to do with the computer.

 

[bcp]

I do understand there is a difference - comes up when I try to get codes for issues that crop up via engine lights). I am told that 1994/1995 gives minimal info. via codes and 1996 + are more detailed. So that would obviously have something to do with the computer.

would also have to do with additonal sensors.

 

[Crewdawg141]

I do understand there is a difference - comes up when I try to get codes for issues that crop up via engine lights). I am told that 1994/1995 gives minimal info. via codes and 1996 + are more detailed. So that would obviously have something to do with the computer.

Well its more of the fact that you are running an On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) I equipped vehicle as opposed to an OBD II equipped vehicle. Your truck is running "ancient" computer technology that only monitored a few things, with the newer OBD II came more sensors different computers and more things (sensors)to have to look at or pay for. I would much rather work on your Blazer than newer trucks! They are simpler in a sense, it is also the same reason of why I have not parted with my 1978 C10, it is the last year for trucks to not have any pollution controls (very simple to work on). The proposed OBD III is promising to increase the number of dealer only repairs.

 

[ArkRescue]

Well its more of the fact that you are running an On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) I equipped vehicle as opposed to an OBD II equipped vehicle. Your truck is running "ancient" computer technology that only monitored a few things, with the newer OBD II came more sensors different computers and more things (sensors)to have to look at or pay for. I would much rather work on your Blazer than newer trucks! They are simpler in a sense, it is also the same reason of why I have not parted with my 1978 C10, it is the last year for trucks to not have any pollution controls (very simple to work on). The proposed OBD III is promising to increase the number of dealer only repairs.

... the threat of "dealer only repairs" is enough to make me want to stick with the old vehicles, but I wonder how hard it will be to find parts for the old ones?

I have been trying to get a replacement front bumper, and every time I call Brandywine, they don't have any. Looks like I may end up buying a new one?

 

[Crewdawg141]

... the threat of "dealer only repairs" is enough to make me want to stick with the old vehicles, but I wonder how hard it will be to find parts for the old ones?

I have been trying to get a replacement front bumper, and every time I call Brandywine, they don't have any. Looks like I may end up buying a new one?

Is the bumper for the same truck? I am not promoting this company in anyway but look up LMC Truck for your parts. There are other companies that carry parts you just have to hunt for them. Also search on CL and use Junkyard Dog.com. Enter your info and the part that you are looking for and it will send your info to numerous junkyards and those that have it will contact you.

Brandywine has become a monopoly in the local area for used parts combine that with the high value of scrap and the junkyard may soon become obsolete.

And before anyone defends Brandywine, I do shop there when I am looking for some different things. I just like competition in the local marketplace, we the consumers win with competition.

 

[ArkRescue]

Is the bumper for the same truck? I am not promoting this company in anyway but look up LMC Truck for your parts. There are other companies that carry parts you just have to hunt for them. Also search on CL and use Junkyard Dog.com. Enter your info and the part that you are looking for and it will send your info to numerous junkyards and those that have it will contact you.

Brandywine has become a monopoly in the local area for used parts combine that with the high value of scrap and the junkyard may soon become obsolete.

And before anyone defends Brandywine, I do shop there when I am looking for some different things. I just like competition in the local marketplace, we the consumers win with competition.

Yes it's for the same truck - so I have put the bumper on the back burner until I get the emissions issue taken care of (unless I find a well-priced used one, then I will buy it).

 

[Crewdawg141]

Yes it's for the same truck - so I have put the bumper on the back burner until I get the emissions issue taken care of (unless I find a well-priced used one, then I will buy it).

If I come across anything I will let you know. I am constantly looking for parts and pieces for myself and others. What is well priced in your opinion?

 

[ArkRescue]

If I come across anything I will let you know. I am constantly looking for parts and pieces for myself and others. What is well priced in your opinion?

Up to $150 in good condition. Is that unreasonable?

 

[Crewdawg141]

Up to $150 in good condition. Is that unreasonable?

Rust free and solid should be @ $150-200. That is what I am finding for Ford bumpers. So not too unreasonable, IMO.

 

[bcp]

how about you just ask a few guys to come down with a compression tester and see if they can narrow it down for you.
excessive oil burning can be rings, head gaskets even a bad EGR can cause it.

talking about replacing an engine before you know what is wrong with it is just silly to be honest.

and for those that are not really sure what the EGR does, and why it was put on...
It is the Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve.
It takes exhaust and send it to the oil pan then back up and out of the engine. The idea is that the oil will catch carbon particles and leave a cleaner exhaust output.
It works
downside? it puts harmful carbon deposits in the oil and breaks it down sooner. ( I have an EGR restriction plate on my truck to stop this process.)

 

[Crewdawg141]

Timeline:

Spring 2011 - Failed emissions test
Fall 2011 - went to retest and they turned me away saying SUV was smoking too much
In a few weeks I am due to test again ......

The mechanic I use told me that I can try smokeless oil so that Emissions will let me test (turned me away a few months ago due to too much smoke), then I will get more time to figure out what to do with my SUV even if I fail again.

I was reading online that smokeless oil doesn't work BUT the mechanic said he ordered some (from a supplier in Georgia for $200) for a customer who used it and went through DC inspection just fine (meaning it worked).

I'm thinking this, if the smokeless oil works, I use that, then have the shop figure out what else caused me to fail Emissions last Spring, then maybe I get a year or 2 if I pass to figure out what's going on with my engine, and at the minimum a few more months if I don't pass.

So does smokeless oil work that anyone here knows of? I would assume maybe some brands work and some are just getting big $$ for a product that doesn't work.

Just to continue bcp's thought process, is the Blazer throwing a Check Engine Light? If I remember correctly on your truck it would be an amber engine symbol lit up on the dash. Is it running rougher than normal?

 

[ArkRescue]

Just to continue bcp's thought process, is the Blazer throwing a Check Engine Light? If I remember correctly on your truck it would be an amber engine symbol lit up on the dash. Is it running rougher than normal?

yup engine light was on and I had it interpreted and was told (by different shop) it was EGR related - and I told the recent shop that. Why they didn't come to that determination is beyond me. So I just left a message for them this morning asking how much they would charge to replace the EGR. That could be the whole problem? I also asked how much a compression test would be, although I don't think I want a compression test until AFTER I see how it's running with the new EGR.

 

[Crewdawg141]

yup engine light was on and I had it interpreted and was told (by different shop) it was EGR related - and I told the recent shop that. Why they didn't come to that determination is beyond me. So I just left a message for them this morning asking how much they would charge to replace the EGR. That could be the whole problem? I also asked how much a compression test would be, although I don't think I want a compression test until AFTER I see how it's running with the new EGR.

Did they ever tell you what the code was exactly? Do you know how to pull the codes yourself? If you want a little free help to look deeper into it, you can go to Autozone and they will check the codes for free and give you a possible diagnosis.

 

[GWguy]

yup engine light was on and I had it interpreted and was told (by different shop) it was EGR related - and I told the recent shop that. Why they didn't come to that determination is beyond me. So I just left a message for them this morning asking how much they would charge to replace the EGR. That could be the whole problem? I also asked how much a compression test would be, although I don't think I want a compression test until AFTER I see how it's running with the new EGR.

Flagging the EGR is generic, it could be anything in the EGR system, not just the valve. If the motor were burning oil and there was blow-by on the pistons, the EGR system probably couldn't handle the excess, and an alarm went off.

You need to get the specific code from the ODB to aid in a real diagnosis.