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lawn seeding
- Thread starter jetmonkey
- Start date
kom526
They call me ... Sarcasmo
Tractor and a rear mount PTO tiller, and someone who can operate it.
Goldenluver
New Member
DoWhat - how did your plugs turn out?
We really need to do something with our "lawn", which is about 90% weeds, so I'm wondering if plugs might be a better option than seeding.
We really need to do something with our "lawn", which is about 90% weeds, so I'm wondering if plugs might be a better option than seeding.
Good and Bad advice
There is a whole lot of jawing going on here. Some is good advice, but most I am sorry to say is not. Everybody thinks that they're an expert lawn guy. Bottom line; if you want a decent lawn and you don't know what you're doing (which is evident from most of the posts here), interview and hire a quality lawn care professional.
There is a whole lot of jawing going on here. Some is good advice, but most I am sorry to say is not. Everybody thinks that they're an expert lawn guy. Bottom line; if you want a decent lawn and you don't know what you're doing (which is evident from most of the posts here), interview and hire a quality lawn care professional.
Baja28
Obama destroyed America
So identify the good and bad posts.
kwillia
n/a
Look, bud... he already told you that you need to interview and hire a quality lawn care professional... pay attention.
Baja28
Obama destroyed America
kwillia
n/a
I did. See post 44.
I wanna see who he's busting on....
kom526
They call me ... Sarcasmo
What's the name of your company?
Baja28
Obama destroyed America
And where were you when I couldn't get anyone to call me back?
Cowgirl
Well-Known Member
Sorry
Guess I should make more time to be here. I am not going to reveal the name of my company here because I don't feel it is appropriate to do so. But, I will say that the answer is here. I plan to become a sponsor soon. Anyway, I will attempt to go through each thread and tell you what is right and what is wrong.
Guess I should make more time to be here. I am not going to reveal the name of my company here because I don't feel it is appropriate to do so. But, I will say that the answer is here. I plan to become a sponsor soon. Anyway, I will attempt to go through each thread and tell you what is right and what is wrong.
This is mostly right, but the right time to seed is September-October. Grassseed needs two things to germinate; proper soil temperature (above 60 degreees- below 80) and proper moisture. Also, most summer annual weeds are at the end of their life cycle so they won't compete with your new grass. You can seed into November as a last resort if the weather is mild, but expect the lawn to fill in slowly.
AS far as killing the lawn, you have missed the window of opportunity where perennial weeds like bermuda grass (Wire grass) is concerned. If total renovation is required, two applications of glyphosate (RoundUp) in August is what is needed for best results. However, there are ways to deal with it during the growing season. Definately, avoid spring seeding. Some years it will work; last year was one. but most years you are reseeding in fall anyway. Best to fight the weeds through summer and seed in fall.
New seed and leaves
I agree with this, A light layer of leaves on a newly seeded lawn is actually beneficial because it will act as a mulch and protect the moisture from evaporation. Actual leaf drop usually occurs in mid November, so there is plenty of time to establish the lawn before you have to do heavy duty leaf removal. It is also beneficial to mulch the leaves into the turf, but you have to be sure that you do not leave heavy clippings and that there is good conditions for organic matter breakdown. Always be extra careful with your leaf removal activities on new grass. It is best to blow rather than rake. Heavy equipment can cause problems on wet soil.
Watering is challenging and there is no rule of thumb because everyone has different soil conditions. New seed and seedlings must remain moist or they will die. It is also ok to water at night in the fall. The cooler temperatures and less humidity are not conditions conducive for fungus to develop. Watering at night reduces evaporation.
I agree with this, A light layer of leaves on a newly seeded lawn is actually beneficial because it will act as a mulch and protect the moisture from evaporation. Actual leaf drop usually occurs in mid November, so there is plenty of time to establish the lawn before you have to do heavy duty leaf removal. It is also beneficial to mulch the leaves into the turf, but you have to be sure that you do not leave heavy clippings and that there is good conditions for organic matter breakdown. Always be extra careful with your leaf removal activities on new grass. It is best to blow rather than rake. Heavy equipment can cause problems on wet soil.
Watering is challenging and there is no rule of thumb because everyone has different soil conditions. New seed and seedlings must remain moist or they will die. It is also ok to water at night in the fall. The cooler temperatures and less humidity are not conditions conducive for fungus to develop. Watering at night reduces evaporation.
Sod is very expensive, but is the best option in the spring if an instant lawn is required.
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toppick08
Guest
A few things to consider; Zoysia is a warm season grass and only has about a 5 month growing season in the transition zone. It will green up in late May and go dormant once again in late September. If managed properly it will create a beautiful stand of turf for the middle of the summer. It is important to remember that zoysia will not grow in the shade in this area. The farther south you go, the better it will do because it has a longer growing season. Red fescue should only be used in the shade and should be in a blend with chewings fescues, hard fescues and shade tolerant varieties of Kentucky blue grass.
It is a mis-conception that moles indicate a grub problem. Moles are insectivores. Sure, they eat grubs but that is not their only food source. Studies were conducted where they analyzed the stomach contents of the mole and 60% was earth worms.
The problem with the indescriminate use of contact insecticides is that you kill benefical organisms and insects that help you to create loamy soil and prey on the lawn damaging insects. Beneficials include earthworms, ground and rove beetles, ants, wasps, others. It is best to try to reduce moles with a different method. Castor oil products work, but have to be applied often and liberally. There is a product under the Tomcat label available in most stores that you can use. The active ingredient is bromethalyn. It is important to follow the label and use it properly so you do not waste bait. It is a plastic worm. Moles will eat it and it will kill them if they come in contact with it. However, moles will return. The lawn needs to be thick so that the moles have a tough time pushing up the sod.
It is ok to use lawn products as long as you know what you are doing and read the label. It is only when lawn products are mis-used that they may become a problem. Also, you can waste alot of $$$$ if you don't know what you are doing.