Brake Job... hhhhmmm

[aps45819]

Took it to a friend of my dad's...told me some pads are just squeaky. got them changed again..goodby noise :shrug:

OMG a pad slap

 

[libertytyranny]

OMG a pad slap

it was a pad PUNCH. He's too tough to be slapping.





Seriously OP..as a woman, even if you know what you are talking about..let a man take the car in. Any man. Any random man you can find. It will be a dif story.

 

[glhs837]

That's true; but checking runout is just good sense; and if it reveals that you DO need a turn or a replacement; then it saves headaches later.

Thats why I recommended always checking thickness and runout. But a lot of places, they figure its cheaper for them to just recommend rotors. They dont take the time rig rig the gauge, and make more money.

 

[Merlin99]

Always change the rotors when I change pads. It just doesn't pay to have them turned when new rotors won't cost much more. :shrug:

If the new rotors were stored vertically there's a chance that the'll be warped right out of the box.

 

[FED_UP]

:shrug:

I just left the Prince Frederick, Maryland location. I told the mechanic that I needed him to check out the brakes on my 2005 Nissan Sentra. I told him they are making a noise when I back up.

I should preface this by saying I had my car at the Tires Plus shop in California, Maryland a few days ago for an oil change and I asked them to look at the brakes because they are making a noise when I back up. The mechanic came back and said that the rotors need to be replaced. He said it appears that the last time my brakes were done, someone had just "slapped the pads" on. I asked him what that means. He told me that it means that someone just put the pads on without turning the rotors.

I called Mr. Tire.... they said that they would have to look at the car. I let myself cool down before taking the car to them today. The mechanic came in and explained that I needed new rotors. Then he went on to say that it appears someone just "pad slapped" the car the last time the brakes were done.

When I asked him what that meant, he told me that the pads appear to be brand new but the rotors have a rust ring. He said that would mean that when those pads were put on the rotors were not turned. At that point I told him that the last time I had the brakes worked on... Mr. Tire did it. Then he started to deny that he had said that.

I got on the phone with my husband to tell him that Mr. Tire said I need new rotors, that the mechanic said that it appeared that the last person who did the job had "pad slapped" it. The mechanic said.... "oh no... that's not what I said"... I told him [hubby and the lady behind the counter were both listening] "yes that is exactly what you just said... you said "pad slapped". He then said that wasn't what he meant to say... and that he should have not spoken so quickly.

Here's the deal.... I believe it's very unlikely that two mechanics from two different companies, would both use exactly the same phrase "pad slapped" or "pads were slapped on" if it were not highly probable that it had occurred.

Both mechanics state that the pads are like brand new even tho they have been on the car since Mr. Tire installed them a year ago. The rotors have a rust ring.

The mechanic at Mr. Tire told me that they always turn the rotors. It's part of the job. "It's a habit". Always? Every single time?

The mechanic offered me a buy one rotor, get one free after our conversation. My husband told me to bring the car home. The mechanic said the brakes are still safe but I will continue to hear noise. I'd like you comments please.

I am usually satisfied after a BJ :shrug:

 

[Vince]

But most of the time, they don't need turned either. So you dont need to spend the $25, and certainly not $60.

If the brake pedal is bumping when you step on it, they're out/warped. And since I do everything right in my own garage, I save time, gas and I don't have to wonder if the job was done right.

 

[Gilligan]

If the new rotors were stored vertically there's a chance that the'll be warped right out of the box.

Having changed hundreds..I can say that there is a better than 50/50 chance any new rotor will have too much face runout (it might not be due to 'warpage' but that is what most people do call it) right out of the box. I've seen fewer problems with the smaller single-thickness rotors found on cars than on the larger rotors found on SUVs and trucks, though.

I usually turn brand new ones after they are mounted on the hub; especially in the case of the older/larger ventilated rotors. I've seen some of those with .030" of face runout, right out of the box. That would be a lot of pedal and front-end shudder if not fixed.

 

[Merlin99]

Having changed hundreds..I can say that there is a better than 50/50 chance any new rotor will have too much face runout (it might not be due to 'warpage' but that is what most people do call it) right out of the box. I've seen fewer problems with the smaller single-thickness rotors found on cars than on the larger rotors found on SUVs and trucks, though.

I usually turn brand new ones after they are mounted on the hub; especially in the case of the older/larger ventilated rotors. I've seen some of those with .030" of face runout, right out of the box. That would be a lot of pedal and front-end shudder if not fixed.

I assumed it was warped from storage since they were turned to the proper thickness just prior to being stuck in a box and shipped. I will agree that it isn't the only issue that could cause the problem though.

 

[Gilligan]

I assumed it was warped from storage since they were turned to the proper thickness just prior to being stuck in a box and shipped. I will agree that it isn't the only issue that could cause the problem though.

From what I've seen and then surmised, I put the blame on two factors; machining castings that are too 'green' and not aged long enough before final machining and simply sloppy machining practices in general.

Consider that most replacement rotors and drums are made in India, China and Brazil..with the ones from Brazil typically the highest quality of all of them, though not to a degree to get too excited over.

 

[hotcoffee]

my brakes were making a horrible squeaking/creaking a while back..and I had new pads..took it somewhere..forget where and they tried to tell me basically my car was going to blow up and I was going to die.

Took it to a friend of my dad's...told me some pads are just squeaky. got them changed again..goodby noise :shrug:

My brakes don't squeal... but they make a metalic sound when I have it in reverse.

Both shops say the pads are brand new.... after a year....

 

[glhs837]

If the brake pedal is bumping when you step on it, they're out/warped. And since I do everything right in my own garage, I save time, gas and I don't have to wonder if the job was done right.

Of course if you have a symptom of warping, then turning/changing the rotors is indicated. My point was that if you dont have such symptoms, and know the rotors are in spec for thickness, then changing the rotors isnt indicated.

And I am with you, I do almost all my own stuff, up to and including buying raw brake line, and the flaring tool and teaching myself how to fabricate a five foot front to rear line for the wifes 99 Blazer, since Chevy used brake line that corrodes. Like you, this way I know it was done right.

 

[aps45819]

My brakes don't squeal... but they make a metalic sound when I have it in reverse.

Both shops say the pads are brand new.... after a year....

They don't dissolve with age, they get worn away with use. A Sentra isn't a big heavy car and I would expect the pads to last at least 30K miles if driven sedately.

How many miles have you driven in the last year?
Do you drive fast and brake hard?

 

[struggler44]

My brakes don't squeal... but they make a metalic sound when I have it in reverse.

Both shops say the pads are brand new.... after a year....

That's because your stopping power is proportioned more towards the front of the car (by design), I've seen rear brakes last 3 times as long as fronts

 

[hotcoffee]

That's because your stopping power is proportioned more towards the front of the car (by design), I've seen rear brakes last 3 times as long as fronts

It's the front brakes I'm talking about... the rear brakes have drums...

 

[struggler44]

It's the front brakes I'm talking about... the rear brakes have drums...

Sorry, thought you were talking about the rear brakes this whole time....i'll sit down and be quiet now..........

 

[hotcoffee]

They don't dissolve with age, they get worn away with use. A Sentra isn't a big heavy car and I would expect the pads to last at least 30K miles if driven sedately.

How many miles have you driven in the last year?
Do you drive fast and brake hard?

I've been lucky... I've driven less than 12,000 miles. Most of my driving is from Lusby to Prince Frederick with an occasional trip to Walmart in California, MD and an occassional trip to the New Carrolton Metro.

That's why I can't understand the need for rotors. It only happens when the car is in reverse.

 

[SoMdDude]

Mr. Tire is a tire place. Going there for anything else is like going to a Proctologist for a dental exam.
(Made myself laugh)

You need brake work? Go to Meineke or Midas.

I had a horrible experience with Midas and my brakes... to make along story short...they forgot to put the caliper pin on one of my front calipers once after getting new front rotors and pads...I drove to NY/Long Island for a wedding and noticed a metal on metal sound..I took it to the dealer right away...and they showed me the pin missing....

Went back to midas and explained what happened..they took a look at it and the manager said even if it was put back in..it locks itself into place basically and shouldn't of fallen out....he issued me a check for the work they did, and what it cost at the dealer to fix. The dealer told me I was lucky that caliper didn't fail because it would of caused my whole break system to fail (Not sure how true that is or not, i do have ABS) and would not let me take my car home until they got the pin the following day.....I haven't been back to Midas since!
(this was the Waldorf Midas)

 

[my-thyme]

tires = Curtis


always

 

[glhs837]

I'm with you, they just flat rock.

 

[aps45819]

The dealer told me I was lucky that caliper didn't fail because it would of caused my whole break system to fail (Not sure how true that is or not, i do have ABS)

A hydraulic system (your brakes) needs to be closed to transmit pressure from one place to another. When you step on the pedal, you're sending brake fluid from a master cylinder to slave cylinders in the brake calipers which clamp the brake pads to the disc and the car stops. If the caliper goes away, there is suddenly an open line, the brake fluid goes away and you have no brakes.

ABS is a computer control system that prevents the wheels from locking up in a panic stop and allows you to steer the car instead of just sliding.