Recommendations for a brake shop
- Thread starter Mikeinsmd
- Start date
Ricky Racer
Boyz under the hood
Is it really ! If you new anything you would know that China is manufacturing the higher percentage of brake rotors that come on most Jap cars from the factory. As matter of fact Ford GM and Chrysler have been using them on some models also.Fenrir51 said:
If anything ignorant was said in this thread..See next quote---->
Don't buy Chinese rotors buy Mexican or Canadian Rotors
Ricky Racer
Boyz under the hood
Don't ever do that on a car that has an anti lock brake system without opening the bleeder valve first.itsbob said:
Ricky Racer
Boyz under the hood
Come by and use the shop,,just in case you run into any problems..Mikeinsmd said:I have been shamed into doing it myself......next weekend.
Ricky Racer
Boyz under the hood
huntr1 said:
If your car has antilock brakes, changing the pads is a bit different than what most people are used to. With a normal (non-ABS) car, you just unbolt the caliper, press apart the old pads to retract the piston, then replace the pads. This procedure forces much of the brake fluid out of the caliper and back into the master cylinder. The fluid is put back once you step on the brakes.
With an ABS car, you CAN'T force the fluid back; if you do you'll damage the ABS valve body ($1500). Instead, you must open the caliper bleed screw and drain the excess fluid out of the caliper while you press the piston back into the bore. This is very important! If you force the dirty, water-contaminated fluid back through the relatively fragile valve body, you'll ruin it.
Also, did you know that you are supposed to replace all of the brake fluid in an ABS car once each year? That's different from older-style cars too.
Brake fluid absorbs water.
Both DOT 3 and DOT 4 fluids are normally polyglycol base fluids. Polyglycol fluids are hygroscopic, which means they absorb moisture. As the amount of moisture absorbed increases, the point at which the brake fluid boils, decreases. It just so happens that polyglycol based fluids are so hygroscopic, they will suck moisture right through the pores of a cast master cylinder. In a well sealed brake system, on the typical passenger car, these fluids will require changing approximately every 1-2 years, depending on the severity of use. In a race car, however, brake fluid may require changing as frequently as every single race.
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Ricky Racer
Boyz under the hood
itsbob said:
Clymers is written by idiots for idiots or your reading comprehension isn't very good ? Take your pick !
Yes! Opening caliper bleeders and using line locks before pushing caliper piston into bore helps prevent needless replacement of master cylinders. Pushing caliper pistons back into the caliper bore without opening the bleeders could damage master cylinders or ABS components. Opening the bleeder will allow the piston to be pushed back without forcing all the fluid into the master cylinder. However, sending some contaminated fluid to the master cylinder is still possible with the bleeder open. Using a line lock will assure you that this doesn’t happen.
Brake fluid inside the caliper is full of dirt and sludge. Using mechanical force to push a piston back will force the fluid through the ABS and the vent port on the master cylinder, which is about 0.015” in diameter. Without the bleeders open, this dirt could plug the vent port, causing brake drag or lockup when the fluid heats up. Furthermore, many of today’s ABS units have one or more filters inside. Dirt and sludge will plug or restrict these filters, causing problems with ABS operation.
dustin
UAIOE
itsbob said:
I follow whatever it says in the manual. But in the future I'll keep in mind the bleeding valve on the caliper whenever (if ever) I'm doing work on another ABS equipped car.
The last ABS car I did brake work on was the Audi, and I had a Bentley manual and it never called for that procedure.
itsbob
I bowl overhand
I'm thinking we haven't seen it in any manual is because it's a "snopes" kinda thing.. somebody started this rumor, and people actually fell for it.dustin said:
I follow whatever it says in the manual. But in the future I'll keep in mind the bleeding valve on the caliper whenever (if ever) I'm doing work on another ABS equipped car.
The last ABS car I did brake work on was the Audi, and I had a Bentley manual and it never called for that procedure.
I've never heard of using the bleed valve while compressing the brake pistons, and it seems to me you would be introducing air into the system, as well as other contaminants. I know it's a bike, but we have factory trained mechanics teaching us how to do "tech" items to service our own bikes, and NEVER have they mentioned this as to how to bleed our brakes, or change out pads, and yes our bikes have an advanced ABS system.
oopyhead:
willie
Well-Known Member
If you have a bleed hose handy, it is much easier to push back the piston using the bleed screw. It has nothing to do with ABS. If the MC is full when you are starting the job, using the bleed screw will save you the trouble of sucking out the excess fluid. If you're careful, bleeding the system when you're done won't be necessary.itsbob said:
Ricky Racer
Boyz under the hood
I can see your reading comprehension isn't very good.itsbob said:
I did not call you an idiot, I simply stated that Clymers manuals are written by idiots for idiots.
Read this very slow and I will prove to you that they are idiots.
First we apply common sense.
Now we know that brake fluid becomes contaminated over time by moisture and wear on seals...Correct ?
Now we also know that the brake caliber is the lowest point on the brake system.
We also know that water and moisture is heaver than oil and brake fluid.
So between the gravity and the fact that the master cylinder pushes the fluid to the caliber, I will let you guess where the contaminate in your brake fluid gather.
Common sense for $500 Bob.
Thats right!.. Behind the piston in your brake caliber.
So please explain why anyone would want to push this trash back up through the system when we can open the bleeder valve ?
BTW: I am an ASE and GM certified mechanic and Cymers manuals to Mechanics are like Bob Villa manuals to a Carpenter.
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