???'s about buying a Camper...

Softballkid

No Longer the Kid
I was told that normally when you buy a new camper, you can finance for 15yrs.. Is this true on all campers, or is this only when you get to a certain price.. or what is the deal..?


Also, if I'm going to keep my F150, and my "safe" towing weight is like 7700-8k lbs, around about what should I look for as a weight on the camper, I dont want to max out my tow load incase I gotta get on up a hill in a hurry or something, but I dont want some 15ft camper either, and of course everything we are looking at is around 7-8k lbs.
 

aps45819

24/7 Single Dad
I always thought you should divide the cost of a camper by the cost of a hotel and a couple of resturant meals.

That will tell you how many real vacation days you could have instead of staying at a woodland ghetto with the same work requirements that you have at home.
 

bcp

In My Opinion
I always thought you should divide the cost of a camper by the cost of a hotel and a couple of resturant meals.

That will tell you how many real vacation days you could have instead of staying at a woodland ghetto with the same work requirements that you have at home.
Much wisdom in those words.. much...

now, yes I think you can, or could finance for either 12 or 15. the requirements I think are that the unit contains a bathroom a place to sleep and a place to cook. I dont remember if there is a price break on the longer loan for campers, however when I bought my boat I ended up with a bigger one that I really wanted because by spending 38k instead of 24k, I crossed the magical 25k price line and was able to get the longer loan, so I got more boat for less of a monthly payment. I still ended up paying the boat off in 7 years anyway so I figure I made an error at the time.

as far as the 150 goes, I would think about getting a flat trailer, putting a medium size car on it then see how it pulls before I bought the camper only to find out that I was now going to need a new truck. My old 1500 ram was rated for 6k I think it was, but when I put my 2000lb popup on the back it really hurt the truck.. of course its really not fair comparing a dodge to a real truck.

and on the bright side of things, you certainly would not be the first one with an F-150 pulling a fair size trailer into the campground. So I figure the Ford must have some booty behind it that the dodge was missing.
 
K

Kain99

Guest
We were shopping for a camper this weekend and the salesman told us..... Don't even think about towing with a 150.

250 is minimum.
 

jeffwells_2002

New Member
I think you can finance anything over $20k for 15 years, but that depends on your bank. I bought a 33' Rockwood Ultra lite from Economy Rv's last October and it weights 5800 lbs dry. I'm pulling it with a 1500 Dodge Ram and have no problems pulling up hills.

Economy RVs
 

Lowrider

New Member
I think you can finance anything over $20k for 15 years, but that depends on your bank. I bought a 33' Rockwood Ultra lite from Economy Rv's last October and it weights 5800 lbs dry. I'm pulling it with a 1500 Dodge Ram and have no problems pulling up hills.

Economy RVs

That's because your pulling it with a real truck.........
 

Softballkid

No Longer the Kid
now, yes I think you can, or could finance for either 12 or 15. the requirements I think are that the unit contains a bathroom a place to sleep and a place to cook. I dont remember if there is a price break on the longer loan for campers, however when I bought my boat I ended up with a bigger one that I really wanted because by spending 38k instead of 24k, I crossed the magical 25k price line and was able to get the longer loan, so I got more boat for less of a monthly payment. I still ended up paying the boat off in 7 years anyway so I figure I made an error at the time.

as far as the 150 goes, I would think about getting a flat trailer, putting a medium size car on it then see how it pulls before I bought the camper only to find out that I was now going to need a new truck. My old 1500 ram was rated for 6k I think it was, but when I put my 2000lb popup on the back it really hurt the truck.. of course its really not fair comparing a dodge to a real truck.

and on the bright side of things, you certainly would not be the first one with an F-150 pulling a fair size trailer into the campground. So I figure the Ford must have some booty behind it that the dodge was missing.

I know a 2 people, both with 1500 Chevy Extended Cabs 4x4's, they both have decent size campers (28'-32'), one is pulling using the 5th wheel option, the other is on hitch... They seem to do alright :shrug: I may just go up there and hoook one up to the truck to see how it does :yay:

We were shopping for a camper this weekend and the salesman told us..... Don't even think about towing with a 150.

250 is minimum.

Momma said :nono: I tried that option :lmao:

I think you can finance anything over $20k for 15 years, but that depends on your bank. I bought a 33' Rockwood Ultra lite from Economy Rv's last October and it weights 5800 lbs dry. I'm pulling it with a 1500 Dodge Ram and have no problems pulling up hills.

Economy RVs

I went by there Saturday and got a few pamphlets, and went by there again yesterday to walk around some more being Saturday I was there all of 10-15 minutes.... How are their prices and are they willing to wheel and deal, or they basically a take it or leave it place?
 

Elle

Happy Camper!
I would never max out the weight towing limit - especially on a smaller truck like a 150. They make some really nice hybrid and light weight campers - when we made the jump we had a 1500 so we were really limited with what we wanted but are very happy with the camper we have - of course now having a bigger truck we always have our eyes open for our next purchase but our camper is great for our family.

I’d research different makes and models then go have a look for yourself – now to contradict myself from above – always go bigger than what you think you’ll need or you’ll soon find that you don’t have enough space. I thought hubby was out of his mind for wanting quad bunks - his reasoning was that each kid could bring along a friend – now that we have 3 kids what a blessing it is – I refuse to make out a dinette or sofa bed every night.
 

Elle

Happy Camper!
I went by there Saturday and got a few pamphlets, and went by there again yesterday to walk around some more being Saturday I was there all of 10-15 minutes.... How are their prices and are they willing to wheel and deal, or they basically a take it or leave it place?

We got ours from Economy - we loved working with them. I could definitely find a better deal from buying elsewhere but they have such a great business that they can only service what they sell - and when we have an issue (not that we've had many) I love the piece of mind knowing that I only have to go 15 minutes up the road and not 2 hours to our local dealer. Plus it’s always nice to support local businesses. Once you find the model you want look it up on the internet and know what you are working with and then see how close they could come to matching the price – I doubt they can compare to rvwholesalers.com but for $2K more that piece of mind was worth a lot to me – buying from elsewhere you can’t really go and just take a look at it without a couple hours of driving to possibly get there and decide that there is something about it you don’t like.

Also remember when you are figuring your price that you'll also need to spend about another $1K (high end estimate) on necessities - hitch, weight distributing kit, break controller, sewer hoses and connections, and then all the other little gadgets and gizmos that are needed.
 

Elle

Happy Camper!
Here's an article from the current Good Sam Highways magazine that will enlighten you on all the cool stuff you need or rather don't need when beginning rv-ing - remember that everything you put in adds weight. And not everything you need must be bought new - our leveling blocks are left over 2x8x10s that we had - cut them up into 2 foot lengths and they are perfect.

RV essentials: Everything you need for your rig’s maiden voyage
Joe and Vicki Kieva
Good Sam Club Highways
June 2009


Dear Joe and Vicki:
We’ll take delivery of our first motorhome in about two weeks. In the meantime, we want to buy the essential equipment we’ll need to enjoy our camping trips. What do you suggest?

Joe: When you buy a new rig, it’ll usually come with an electric cord, a drinking-water hose, a water-pressure regulator, a sewer hose, a few sewer-hose connectors and, possibly, a length of television cable. This is basic hookup equipment. But it won’t be long before you’ll want to go out and buy a lot more stuff. As a starter, we’d suggest getting even more hookup equipment.

Your RV will come with a 30- or 50-amp electrical cord, commonly 25 feet in length, to connect to a campsite’s electric power. I promise, there will be occasions when one 25-foot electrical cord won’t be long enough. Get a 25-foot extension cord to match the one that comes with your rig.

While not every RV park offers a 50-amp hookup, most do provide at least a 30-amp connection. So, if your RV has a 50-amp electrical system, you’ll need an adapter that allows a 50-amp plug to connect to a 30-amp receptacle. You’ll also have use for an adapter that does the same for a 30-amp plug and a 15-amp receptacle.

An improperly wired outlet can result in a shocking and sometimes deadly experience. Pick up a circuit analyzer, also called a polarity tester, while you’re at the RV- accessory store. Use the circuit analyzer to check the campground’s electrical outlet to be sure it’s wired properly. Do this before plugging in your RV’s electrical cord.

Some campgrounds, especially older ones, may not deliver the sufficient voltage of 105 or more volts for the RV’s motorized appliances. Get a voltage meter that can be plugged into a standard wall outlet. Keep the voltage meter plugged in where you can see it.

A drinking-water hose is used to connect the RV to the campground’s water hookup and for filling the freshwater tank, and you’ll appreciate the availability of an extra 25-foot drinking-water hose. This doesn’t cost much more than a standard garden hose. When you buy it, make sure it’s labeled Drinking Water Hose, and it won’t impart any tastes to your water. If you’ve purchased a used RV, buy a new drinking-water hose. You don’t know what’s been living (or dying) in the old hose that came with that RV.

A water filter is a personal judgment call. Most experienced RV travelers use two. The first filters out sediment. The second, usually a carbon filter, sifts out bad tastes, odors and some organisms. We recommend at least a sediment filter.

A sewer hose is used to connect the RV’s wastewater outlet to campsite sewer hookups and wastewater disposal stations. Sewer hoses are made of various thicknesses of vinyl material. The heaviest is the most expensive, but it will also be more resistant to penetration by sharp stones or thorns and least likely to cause an embarrassing moment.

We’d suggest getting two additional 10-foot lengths of sewer hose (or cut a 20-foot length in half). Install a male sewer-hose connector on one end of each hose and a female sewer-hose connector on the other end.

RV-park sewer hookups come with a variety of inlet sizes. Look for a sewer inlet adapter that will fit several sizes of sewer openings. A sewer adapter with a 90-degree shape will allow the sewer hose to lay flat on the ground. Cut about a 3-foot length of sewer hose. Attach one end to the sewer-inlet adapter and install a female sewer-hose connector on the other end. This assortment of sewer hoses will permit a quick hookup to the campground’s sewer inlet and easy connection of additional lengths of hose.

Vicki: You’ll add more stuff as you go along: tire-pressure gauge, stepladder, leveling boards and so on. Don’t forget a toolbox with some basic tools. And be sure you discover the joys of looking through RV-accessory catalogs, strolling the vendor aisles at RV shows and visiting RV-accessory stores. Joe is constantly finding things he didn’t know he needed.
 

jeffwells_2002

New Member
When I bought mine, the MSRP was 32K, they told me that their no haggle price was 23K and some change. So they offer some great prices, and they are really easy to work with.



I know a 2 people, both with 1500 Chevy Extended Cabs 4x4's, they both have decent size campers (28'-32'), one is pulling using the 5th wheel option, the other is on hitch... They seem to do alright :shrug: I may just go up there and hoook one up to the truck to see how it does :yay:



Momma said :nono: I tried that option :lmao:



I went by there Saturday and got a few pamphlets, and went by there again yesterday to walk around some more being Saturday I was there all of 10-15 minutes.... How are their prices and are they willing to wheel and deal, or they basically a take it or leave it place?
 

ginwoman

Well-Known Member
Elle, very good information. We got into camping about 7 years ago and love it. One day we hope to get a motor home that will be easier to set up (push button awning, leveling, more storage), but for now we have a decent trailer.

Softballkid: we got ours from Economy. I would recommend them. I wish they had more space around their shop & sales area. Kind of jammed up, even just to park your car.

The Ultra-light might be a good idea for you. maybe then your current truck could pull without a problem

good luck!
 

bcp

In My Opinion
Im not sure how they handle with the weight, or stop the weight but I do see a good number of F-150s pullng in with some good size trailers.
 
Im not sure how they handle with the weight, or stop the weight but I do see a good number of F-150s pullng in with some good size trailers.

It can be done, but you don't have much reserve. I pull an 8x12 box trailer with the Wing in it, totals about 2800lbs. My tow capacity is 6K, GMC 1500 4.8l. I cannot maintain 65 on the highway. I have to back down to just under 60 and leave it in tow/haul mode to keep it from constantly shifting. Granted, alot of that is wind resistance on the box.

I've even added a cold draft intake and reprogrammed the computer for added HP, but it still lacks.
 

Softballkid

No Longer the Kid
It can be done, but you don't have much reserve. I pull an 8x12 box trailer with the Wing in it, totals about 2800lbs. My tow capacity is 6K, GMC 1500 4.8l. I cannot maintain 65 on the highway. I have to back down to just under 60 and leave it in tow/haul mode to keep it from constantly shifting. Granted, alot of that is wind resistance on the box.

I've even added a cold draft intake and reprogrammed the computer for added HP, but it still lacks.


Now I would be getting a brake controller and all that stuff, as for the truck, its the 5.4 Triton engine, and I have an 'Air Force One Cool Air Intake', and Flowmaster dual exhaust, combined I think it gave me around 20hp, and 30-40ft-lb torque... Looking at some stuff on line, I'm going with around 7k tow load would be close to max... Depending what I read, with my exact truck, it's 7100lbs-7700lbs, depending which site I look at, so I need to look at the stickers on the truck as well..

I know for a fact, I've towed 4k +, and my truck acted pretty good, at 55mph, I was at the same exact rpm that I was when no weight back there... I don't want to max it out to the gills, but of course it seems to get something that we want, I need to at minimum in the 6500-6800lb range, and that is in the ROCKWOOD ULTRA LIGHT SERIES campers.
 
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Elle

Happy Camper!
Depending what I read, with my exact truck, it's 7100lbs-7700lbs, depending which site I look at, so I need to look at the stickers on the truck as well.


Remember that you also have to discount any passenger weight and other cargo you have in the truck (wood, generator, anything else you might carry with you). Also if you ever can't dump before leaving each gallon of water equals 8 pounds - adds up quickly.
 

Elle

Happy Camper!
I looked at the 2701SS, it is nice but the rear bunks are very tight. I decided to go with the 8317SS.

Rockwood Travel Trailers & Fifth Wheels 8317SS Floorplan

Friends of ours have this same model and there is no way I would ever consider towing it with a 150. Ours is no longer made but we have a Roo 26RS which is soemwhat comparable set up just with no slide and the layout is semi reversed - oh and about 2,000 pounds lighter.

When we were looking before we faced the same weight restrictions, our next option was the Rockwood 2701 too. But like I said before hubby felt that having the 4 beds was more important than a side slide so we ended up with our Roo (ours has a hard rear slide and we just push a button so we don't have to deal with setting up the bed in the elements like most expandables/hybrids -you still need to set up the jacks and utilities from outside but the bed never gets wet).
 
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